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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well the short version is I was at Tractor supply yesterday and ordered a new 48 gun safe. Its gonna take 3 or 4 weeks to come in and they are offering 1 year interest free financing but it ain't gonna take me a year, don't like having bills hanging over my head. So I'm driving home and the wife is reading me the brochure that came with it and she say wow that thing weighs 700lbs how are you gonna get it in the basement? DOUGH! as Homer Simpson used to say. I have gotten all kinds of creative suggestions from the guys at work. One of my buddies tells me what ever you do don't hire anyone to move that thing like I mentioned I was. He says you don't want anyone knowing what you have bla bla bla
I can kind of see his point but I would imagine that safe moving outfits or ones that specialize in moving large heaving stuff like that have to be bonded and insured. I owuld hate to see anyone get hurt moving this monster and wind up owning my house...
What do u guys think?

 

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The one I moved was 1000 lbs. I hired a professional safe mover. They had a special dollie for going down the stairs. It was pretty impressive watching them moving it around without so much scuffing a wall.
 

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I used one of those 4 castered furniture mover dolly's like you get at Home Depot.

Charlie
 

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It's not any different than moving an engine. Actually it's a lot easier because it has a flat bottom.

Remember this, you have all day or whatever to move it to the place you want. A thief has to move quicker. That's one reason you have a safe instead of a sheet metal or wood cabinet.

The really simple way is several steel pipes or tubes used as rollers. That doesn't solve the problem of steps or thresholds though.
 

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It's not any different than moving an engine. Actually it's a lot easier because it has a flat bottom.

Remember this, you have all day or whatever to move it to the place you want. A thief has to move quicker. That's one reason you have a safe instead of a sheet metal or wood cabinet.

The really simple way is several steel pipes or tubes used as rollers. That doesn't solve the problem of steps or thresholds though.
:dito: Like Rick said, but we used 1" plastic PVC pipe, but still does not help on the stair issue...i guess you could just push it down the stairs, close your eyes and pray for the best :dontknow: :sign0020: Just joking....:anim_25:

Rick
 
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Finally something I know a little about. Best money you will ever spend is to have it moved, especially with stairs, thresholds, ect. Me and 2 buddys moved a 1200 lb safe with a dolly. Not smart, but we did it. When I sold the indoor range with the safe, I bought a 48 gun Fat Boy and paid $150.00 to have it delivered. Best money spent. A 5'8' 160 lb kid and his pregnant wife delivered and set it up. I asked to please let me help and he said it was easier by himself (it was). He is now a friend. I should have had the big safe moved. Some things are best left to those that know how. Lloyd :bowtier: I'm not half as big as I used to think I was. :sign0020:

Most buy a safe with insurance funds from a robbery. Don't even need to bolt them down, too hard and time consuming to steal. If they are good enough to break into it, they don't want your piddly 20 or 30 thousand dollars in guns, they will go for the gems worth real money.
 

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Back in 2005 I bought this fire safe from a bank that after 100 years in business was closing its doors. I believe the safe was made in the 1950’s. I paid $100 for the safe and $500 to have it moved. This sucker is heavy. The safe movers estimated it weighs 3000 lbs. The steel on the outside is ¾ inch thick and the overall thickness of the walls and the doors is 6 inches. The fire rating is 2000 degrees for 4 hours.

The safe movers jacked it up with something that resembled two pallet jacks. They placed the two jacks on each end of the safe and used heavy ratcheting straps around the safe tying the jacks and the safe together as a unit before jacking it up. They placed aluminum plates on the bank lobby floor to protect the tile while rolling it out. Even with this precaution some of floor tiles were cracked. They winched it into a heavy trailer and hauled it 50 miles to my garage.

 
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Your safe is just a little larger than my first one. That is why I said it was money well spent. Proper equipment and knowledge make it look easy. Lloyd :bowtier:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks Nick for the leads and the rest of you, since I posted I made a call to one of the local sportsman's shops and they told me to call back tomorrow to get their safe movers phone number but I will check into the one's you posted Nick.
Yeah with the way my luck goes trying to save a few hundred bucks will wind costing me who knows how much. Its one of those things that goes ok until it gets away from you and then it goes bad real fast and the last thing I want is for anyone to get hurt namely me.
I did see those walking hand trucks, a buddy who is a diesel mechanic for a power generation company says they rent them to haul batteries and parts up and down stairs for gen sets that are inside typically older buildings. Back when we were house hunting we looked at a house where the guy had a gigantic safe in the basement with a really cool mural on it that came with the house. I asked him how in the heck did you ever get it in the basement he told me they lowered it in with a crane before they built the deck on to the addition. Kinda extreme but good planning pays off I guess.

For me its more about responsible gun ownership then worrying about thieves as I have a son with special needs and normal curiosity so its more of an insurance policy against tragedy. As far as theft if there is anything left to the idiots who break into my house after my four German Shepard's are done with them they would want me to use one of my guns to put them out of their misery .....:sign0020:

Thanks again guys


Lacka Safe Corp

400 Meadow Ln
Carlstadt, NJ 07072-3006

Liberty Safes Of NJ
1215 Route 73
Mount Laurel, NJ 08054-22

Megasafe
94 Bergen Tpke
Little Ferry, NJ 07643-1608
 

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My safe weighs 1,800 lbs. empty. Before it was delivered, I made 2 ramps out of 2x4s and 3/4" plywood -- one short ramp to up to the doorsill and an 8-foot ramp to go from the entryway down two steps into the living room. The safe company easily wheeled the safe into place using a pallet jack. Obviously, you stairs will be a bit more of a challenge, but maybe a ramp could be used.
 

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It's not any different than moving an engine. Actually it's a lot easier because it has a flat bottom.

Remember this, you have all day or whatever to move it to the place you want. A thief has to move quicker. That's one reason you have a safe instead of a sheet metal or wood cabinet.

The really simple way is several steel pipes or tubes used as rollers. That doesn't solve the problem of steps or thresholds though.
Gun safe or my 6000 pound lathe moved effortless with 3 steel pipes.
 

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I'm a Certified Master Locksmith and SAFTA Certified Safe Expert myself. Worked for one of the largest safe companies in the world and have moved thousands of safes and have built many modular bank vaults over the years. Gun safes are a walk in the park if you go about it the right way. First, you can roll it around on a fridge cart with no issues whatsoever because most of the cabinets are pretty tall. When it comes to maneuvering them around in tight spaces, simply place some 1/2" steel rollers under it and it suddenly becomes a one man job to roll it or turn it around in a hallway. If you are planning to roll it through the house simply leap frog the rollers as you push it. If there's carpet or thresholds involved, simply lay down some plywood and then use the rollers or the fridge cart to get it to the stairs.

If the gun safe is one of the pretty ones with shiny paint, be sure to wrap it in a moving blanket before putting it on the fridge cart. To lower the weight before moving it down the stairs, you can also remove the door which is going to drop a couple hundred pounds right off the bat and is pretty easy to do. You can lift it off the hinge pins with a 5' pry bar once the doors open and place a couple wooden blocks under the door until you get a hold of it and walk it to a resting place. If stairs are the only option to lower it and you don't have a walk out basement, lay it on its back and secure it with a sling. From there you can always slide it down on plywood and use the sling with a come along to provide a brake and keep it from getting loose.

The other way is to keep it on the fridge cart and bump it down the stairs with 2 good sized spotters working to keep the weight off below and a couple people on the upper handles of the cart controlling the descent. With the door removed and the safes body secured to the cart with a strap, it really is a very manageable weight to move as long as you respect it. Going down the stairs with that weight (around 500lbs) isn't hard at all. Once it's down and in position, re-install the door and you got her licked. We have all of the safe moving equipment here including a stair walker that carries up to 1200lbs but rarely ever use it with smaller safes under 750 lbs. If using a regular fridge cart on the stairs that has the lower belt that rides the stairs, be forewarned that this can mar the stair lips with black rubber if you don't lift the weight and each riser. It scrubs off in most cases but just thought I should warn you ahead of time.

If all else fails and you're not confident moving it, then call a local affiliate of Allied or N/A Movers as they're probably cheaper than hiring actual safe guys. Our minimum is 2 hours with 2 men and we bill out at 125.00 per hours so that should make you want to do it yourself. :)

Good luck, and be safe about it!
 

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-89XPh79YQ
here you go. do it safe. No pun intended. lol
I wonder what the weight limit of that is? I had a 4,000lb safe slid down wooden planks on my basement steps with the help of the neighbor with a backhoe and chains. He said he wouldn't move it again. :) Then I moved and had a friend with a rollback pull it up the planks again and dropped it off at a storage building. With the help of a 2 ton cherry picker I moved it myself into a trailer (on top of the reinforced floor I made for it) then unloaded it into my garage at my new house. This is an antique safe with walls about 10" thick. I got it for free, the guy just wanted it out of his garage.
 

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Gun safe in Basement ?

Hope it's not to damp down there and that your area is not prone to flooding. I know you can put a dehumidifier inside the safe to help with the moisture but it wont help if it floods or your sump pump quits due to power outage.
my 2 cents
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hope it's not to damp down there and that your area is not prone to flooding. I know you can put a dehumidifier inside the safe to help with the moisture but it wont help if it floods or your sump pump quits due to power outage.
my 2 cents
Have zero water or dampness issues, the ground around here is nothing but sand and its like a sponge, I have a dehumidifier set up for our model railroad as some of those things can get pretty pricey and it never even turns on let alone need to be emptied. The safe comes with one but not sure if I am even going to use it. Talked to a safe mover today wanted $300 and told me I need 70" of head space from the edge of the stairs to the top of the door opening not a problem at all, but I think I am going to take 55's advice and give those moving companies a call. I also have a call into ta friend over at the State Police who is the head of the firearms division, if he doesn't have those kind of contacts no one does.
 

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Tractor Supply

Are they going to deliver it? If so they'll bring it in & set it up. It's not like their employees don't know you have it.

Let a pro do it. Don't get hurt.

I think it's amazing you can still own a gun in "The People's Republic":anim_25:

John
 
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