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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a pretty nice 57 Belair 2 door Sedan Im about to start on and was wondering if anyone is in the OKC area? Id love to look and talk about our projects. Main thing is Id like to see someone installing one of those one piece floors. I have one to put in and cannt decide on if it would be wise to pay the $30-$50 an hour for 30-40 hours to have one installed or do it myself. I just dont see it taking that long if you knew what you were doing in the first place. Id guess if the car was stripped and no interior and bolts for bodymounts were loose it might take someone whos done it before 4hours to measure and brace. 4 to plasma cut floor out. 4-6 to clean up cut from removing floor. Then another 4 -6 to weld i-n then 2 to seam seal. Thats only about 18-22 hours and all the quotes I have got are around $2000-2500.HIt me up if you are in the OKC area.

Thanks
Kris
 

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Thats only about 18-22 hours
Yes but these car projects almost never go as fast as you think they should. I get the same response when i give a price for a classic car interior. People just don`t realize how much time and work is involved.
Terry
 

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I have a pretty nice 57 Belair 2 door Sedan Im about to start on and was wondering if anyone is in the OKC area? Id love to look and talk about our projects. Main thing is Id like to see someone installing one of those one piece floors. I have one to put in and cannt decide on if it would be wise to pay the $30-$50 an hour for 30-40 hours to have one installed or do it myself. I just dont see it taking that long if you knew what you were doing in the first place. Id guess if the car was stripped and no interior and bolts for bodymounts were loose it might take someone whos done it before 4hours to measure and brace. 4 to plasma cut floor out. 4-6 to clean up cut from removing floor. Then another 4 -6 to weld i-n then 2 to seam seal. Thats only about 18-22 hours and all the quotes I have got are around $2000-2500.HIt me up if you are in the OKC area.

Thanks
Kris
You make it sound easy, but if you don't have the equipment and have to go buy anything That's cheap.


What make things hard is if there is rust on any of the attaching panels then you can't weld the floor. You need to add a sand blaster to your list of tools. along with primers and other materials and a shop big enough to do the job.


You can do it your self if you can lift the body off. Use a air hammer with cutting tool. They look like a fork with one fork bent down. That will cut out the old floor. Then get you a spot weld cutter and start peeling out the left over.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
oklahoma floor

I know its ALOT of work. Im in the aviation world and have done Oshkosh award winning restorations on aircraft. I know time = money. I always just think of things on my car as "how long would it take me thats Never done it before to "learn" how?" And if that number matches or beats a shops estimate I start to wonder whos working on this thing. Know what Im saying? I realisticly think I could (I have a 30x40 shop with all airtools, mig welder, plasma cutter etc) change the floor. I just have never done it and hate to practice on my baby. Main thing is how to jig so when you cut it doesnt move. Next is "like the pros say" what if there is more rust. I know you have to fix it first. I guess Im to cheap to pay someone when Im at home surfing the web =) so I need to learn where to brace and what order to do this in. I need to fiberglass my boats floor back (had to do a hull repair) then I can move the 57 in the shop and start to tear the trim off and take the front clip off. Think I should have it blasted before I do floor or after? I have a one piece floor that is black edp coated to go in her.

Thanks again and I really dont mean to **** off the pros I know you are trying to make a living and I respect that. Im just a poor mechanic myself with 3 kids at home so money is tight and I hate to pay for what I can do with alittle guidence.
 

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I hear what you are saying. Personally, I know my comfort zone. I am not afraid to try something new (even bought my first welder this year at the age of 51). I know my limits. Experience through the years have made alot of things easy for me. But there comes a time when you are entering the deep dark unknown.....that is the time I decide to ask for opinions, help, or guidance. I know for a fact that I will be farming out body work and paint on my '55-I have painted frames, brackets, inner fenders, etc., but I KNOW I do not have the patience to paint a body. Get in your comfort zone, and only you will be able to make the decision based on your own capabilities. Sounds like it is worth a try...keep us posted, and best of luck!
 

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Kris I know were your coming from . I have a 56 Sedan that next wenter I plan on doing about the same thing that you are . I think this is one great site and if you ask they will tell you how to do it. Please take pic when you do yours I need to learn too . I could pay someone to do it but I want to learn everything I can about my 56 and I think this is the place to do it. Also if any one has any pictures of the car with the whole floor removed I would like to see them. Thanks
 

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Here are a few of mine. before I put the floor in we did the out side rockers.
We put the bracing on the inside so we could fit the doors before we welded everything up. I had car torn all the way down no motor trans ect. We felt that the only way to make shure that the floor pan would stay square would be to bolt it to the frame. The bolts were lose so we could adjust it as we lowered the body down. Now we feft the trunk pan in and the rear body bolts (lose) and lifted the frount of the body enough to slip the floor pan in. I was amazed how well it fit. Befor I did the floor I had to bebuild the lower A piler
(lower door hinge) see my album. I did not sandblast the body. Hope it helps.
 

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Very cool . Thanks for the pic's . I plan to strip it all the way down to just the body looks like the way to go . Thanks
 

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I have a pretty nice 57 Belair 2 door Sedan Im about to start on and was wondering if anyone is in the OKC area? Id love to look and talk about our projects. Main thing is Id like to see someone installing one of those one piece floors. I have one to put in and cannt decide on if it would be wise to pay the $30-$50 an hour for 30-40 hours to have one installed or do it myself. I just dont see it taking that long if you knew what you were doing in the first place. Id guess if the car was stripped and no interior and bolts for bodymounts were loose it might take someone whos done it before 4hours to measure and brace. 4 to plasma cut floor out. 4-6 to clean up cut from removing floor. Then another 4 -6 to weld i-n then 2 to seam seal. Thats only about 18-22 hours and all the quotes I have got are around $2000-2500.HIt me up if you are in the OKC area.

Thanks
Kris
Who do you do restoration work for in the city? I have restored vintage aircraft for 20+ years south of Norman. You should know from doing restoration work unless you have done it before, you can add 2-3 times "what you think it takes" to any job. We done a few one piece floors and they average 35-60 hours depending on the car being done. To add to your guesstimate you forgot 4-6 to fit the new floor pan because it will not drop in place, 3-4 to prep the floor to go into the car, 1 to apply weld through primer, 2 to install floor, and double you weld time. Then you still need to put the body back on the frame. Your also looking at an abrasives and consumables bill close to $150.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
floor install

Like I posted before I am not hear to **** off the "pros" on prices. I simply have not done this before and really dont want to learn a new skill for one car but because I am a poor aircraft mechanic with 3 kids at the house and a million other irons in the fire I may have to learn how to do because I simply can not justify me paying $2500 to have a floor put in. I didnt and dont doubt that may be a fair price for a shop to charge. That said I have done several restorations before and know time does add up but those times also go down the more you do them. SOOO my estimate of what it would take me "rookie floor guy" should not be what it takes "pro floor guy" to do the same job. Makes since to me that the pro whos done it before would be faster. As for one of my restorations I recomend you look up Oshkosh 2009 for "Best Military Trainer" and "Silver Wrench" for outstanding restoration. Also 2010 Oshkosh "Preservation Award" for Warbirds. You'll see my name there a few times and for those who dont know Oshkosh is the Premier Aviation Airshow where judging and awards are given. Kind of like Aviations Pebble Beech. So im not a complete rookie on restoration just a rookie floor guy. Also as a sidenote to "pros" this site is here for us "rookies" to share and gather talent for jobs we have not done or need help from like minded people. Its best not to talk down on people who at some point may turn to you and be willing to pay "shop rate" to have a job they dont have time to do or simply dont want to do for one reason or another. Again Thank you everyone that has put forth comments that encourage or help others. Keepem comin!!
 

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Sorry if I offended you, it was not my intent. I was merely trying to point out some of the other steps you missed. If you wish to tackle the job yourself, more power to you, it is what this hobby is about. I don't post here as often as others since I am on 6+ boards everyday, but if someone needs help and we have done it before, I give advice freely on this board and on my phone, so if you decide to do it yourself and need help, don't hesitate to call.

As far as the aviation part, I have been restoring vintage aircraft for 20 years here in the OKC area and at one time knew just about everyone that was dealing with older aircraft, or knew someone who did. I just thought we may have crossed paths in the past sometime. If you are working on big warbirds then I am guessing your working for Butler, Burgess, or CAF?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Aviation

On the aviation side I work for a local repair station in OKC and we mostly do major sheetmetal repairs. Although we really do alittle of everything. On the side I have owned a few old planes (Luscombe 8E and a Stinson 108-2) and now currently am rebuilding and restoring a neat little homebuilt called a Spezio Tuholer. I restored a BT-13 for a friend of mine and have been lucky enough to win a few big awards with it. It was about a 7 year build and was from the ground up. I would say I am now a BT-13 expert. It was a total basket case (not a complete airplane but a bunch of parts he had collected from litterally fields, etc) Anywho I have done a nice old Corvette and now started this 57. Im splitting my time up between the 57 and the Spezio but will prob push the 57 at times and the Spezio at others. Honestly I think the Spezio will be easier even though it need allllot of work (needs new wings).
 

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:wavey: g'day mate, the aircraft stuff always interest's me, I own a Kawasaki KH4 helicopter and although she has cost me a fair bit of money to keep her in the air she has been worth it, good luck with your 57 and remember we like pic's:D P.S my other ride is a 56 4Dr Wgn:D:D
 

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floor replacement

Hi Im in okc, I was a welder in the AF, but I got help on this, it would be a bad thing to screw up. I paid the guy 35 per hour and he let me help...I saw how much work it is.
This morning I pulled the body on my 55 with a strap and bent the new outer rocker and the roof.....gad!!!

Give me a call at 405-227-if you want to chew the rag on it!
 
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