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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Buddy of my father in law is helping with engine wiring. Wants me to run a starter solenoid. He has been busy as of late and i am trying to wire it up and get this car started. On a 57 210 there is a wire bundle with black, dark green and purple wires in it. It is a ford solenoid so i have battery cable to one large stud and the other large stud has a lead to the starter. I also have the alternator wire hooked up to the battery stud. Thinking i should have a wire from the battery stud to the hei power wire. On one small stud on starter side i have a lead to ground. I have the purple wire to the small stud on battery side. Where do the black and green wires go? Anything else i need to know or hook up this solenoid to get things runnin?

Mike
 

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Not sure why you want to add a 2nd starter solenoid as the starter has one mounted on top of it and it must be used in order to engage the bendix....
 

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just removed mine. thought it was a great idea. seems most newer permanent magnet (mini) starters have to be wired differently with a remote solenoid and honestly, there was no advantage.
By adding a remote solenoid, all you are doing is adding a solenoid, which operates the solenoid already on a gm starter,
As I seen it, just one more part to fail later and why have a relay to run another relay?
I do have a mfg wiring diagram if you need it, that gives details for wiring. Note, it is different from the diagram that comes with a remote solenoid kit.
good luck
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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Buddy of my father in law is helping with engine wiring. Wants me to run a starter solenoid. He has been busy as of late and i am trying to wire it up and get this car started. On a 57 210 there is a wire bundle with black, dark green and purple wires in it. It is a ford solenoid so i have battery cable to one large stud and the other large stud has a lead to the starter. I also have the alternator wire hooked up to the battery stud. Thinking i should have a wire from the battery stud to the hei power wire. On one small stud on starter side i have a lead to ground. I have the purple wire to the small stud on battery side. Where do the black and green wires go? Anything else i need to know or hook up this solenoid to get things runnin?

Mike
You can't have a HEI power wired directly to the battery stud. You won't be able to shut it off.
If it's a true ford solenoid, do not ground either small stud.
The black wire goes to the battery stud to supply constant power to the ignition switch. The green wire goes on the R terminal of the GM solenoid or the I terminal of the ford solenoid.
And I agree with the others, it's a band-aid to overcome other problems and an extra thing to fail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
His reasoning was if the ignition switch failed by mounting this solenoid on a fenderwell it could be shorted to start the car without having to crawl under the car to do it. Something else about having wires readely accesible instead of under car. I was kinda confused as to why i needed another solenoid.
 

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this was a cure all remedy for poor quality starters in the 70'-80's. you wired the ford solenoid as if it were the starter mounted unit then run a big batt cable from the ford solenoid out to the gm solenoid. then use a 10 ga. jumper from the start lug to the batt lug on the gm starter. it works but is a bandaid. best to get a gm perm mag starter.
 

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Looks like an accident waiting to happen. Back when I was young and dumb I shorted across solenoid to start a car. That is dangerous, especially under the car, and a good way to create more problems than you can put out with a fire extinguisher
His reasoning was if the ignition switch failed by mounting this solenoid on a fenderwell it could be shorted to start the car without having to crawl under the car to do it. Something else about having wires readely accesible instead of under car. I was kinda confused as to why i needed another solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Good stuff to know. Hotroddog that was how he wanted me to wire it up. Think i am going to eliminate the solenoid.
Thanks guys!!!
 

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I always found this an excellent mod. to a car with Headers. I have my 55 and 3 of my Camaros wired this way. Would not do it without headeraches.
 

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It is my belief that multiple solenoids are a way to create headaches. Proof in point is my motorhome has 5 or 6 solenoids in the power circuits for the house batteries and the coach batteries.

When I have an issue with a solenoid it takes me a couple of hours to isolate WHICH solenoid is causing the problem! This happened a few months ago. I stopped the engine in a diesel line at a truck stop and when I got back in to start up it would not start. Instead of blocking the line to troubleshoot which solenoid I went straight to the source, crawled under the motor home and just a screw driver to start the engine.

It has not failed again and I have troubleshot it several times and still don't know which solenoid is the problem!!
 

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It is my belief that multiple solenoids are a way to create headaches. Proof in point is my motorhome has 5 or 6 solenoids in the power circuits for the house batteries and the coach batteries.

When I have an issue with a solenoid it takes me a couple of hours to isolate WHICH solenoid is causing the problem! This happened a few months ago. I stopped the engine in a diesel line at a truck stop and when I got back in to start up it would not start. Instead of blocking the line to troubleshoot which solenoid I went straight to the source, crawled under the motor home and just a screw driver to start the engine.

It has not failed again and I have troubleshot it several times and still don't know which solenoid is the problem!!
It does not creare me problems, never had an issue of any kind. Really makes it easy to hook up remote jumper when adjusting solid lifters. Real hotrods have three pedals and solid lifters.
 

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His reasoning was if the ignition switch failed by mounting this solenoid on a fenderwell it could be shorted to start the car without having to crawl under the car to do it. Something else about having wires readely accesible instead of under car. I was kinda confused as to why i needed another solenoid.
You don't need it, forget about it.
 

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STARTER

THE ORIGINAL INTENT WAS TO REMOVE THE SOLENOID AWAY FROM THE HEAT FROM THE MOTOR & EXHAUST, THE STOCK SOLENOID WOULD HEAT SOAK & WOULDN,T WORK TILL IT COOLED OFF, MAYBE THE NEWER SOLENOIDS ARE BETTER BUILT,DICK
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Good thoughts there as well. I plan on driving the old girl and making stops to pick things up is always in the plans. Maybe i will wire the thing up.
 

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Thats why i have one Dick. It starts all the time after I added the Ford solenoid no matter how hot it gets. It may be redundant but if it works don't fix it.
Thats how it was at my house, anyone ever seen the setup on a 429 CJ, it mirrors this setup.
 

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The heavy black wire goes from battery post to your start switch. The green wire goes up to your downstream side of your ballast resister. This wire gives the coil a full 12 volts when cranking the engine to help it fire up. Once the engine fires and you release the switch the power to the coil now goes thru the ballast resister and cuts the voltage to about 8 volts to help the points last longer. The connection in the starter solenoid is now open. It closes only when cranking the starter. You can download a schematic of this here on tri-five.
 

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His reasoning was if the ignition switch failed by mounting this solenoid on a fenderwell it could be shorted to start the car without having to crawl under the car to do it. Something else about having wires readely accesible instead of under car. I was kinda confused as to why i needed another solenoid.
That's what I thought also and then figured out all you need to do is run 12 ga wires (as if you were jumpering it) to a remote push button mounted the same as a soleniod.
 
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