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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is for my '57 2 door HT/Sport Coupe.
I finally stripped off the suspension parts from the front end, and got a good look at the ball joints.
I have new Moog bushings for the upper and lower control arms.
The pickle fork damaged the seals on the upper ball joints and two of the tie rod ends.
And the boots on the lower ball joints are also cracking.
The upper ball joints are still riveted into the control arms. so they are presumably original.
The lower ball joints' tapered shafts are still tight in the spindles, but I was able to unbolt them and remove them from the control arms.
I'll have to see if my front end tool kit has the right tool to pop out the lower ball joints from the spindles.
Can I get new seals/boots for the tie rod ends and the ball joints?
All four ball joints seem nice and tight otherwise.
Or should I just order new Moog ball joints from RockAuto (K670 & K6034)?

And the new Moog CS638 springs have the same uncompressed height as the originals.
But the diameter of the new coils is about .015" larger than the old ones. I'm hoping it'll ride at the original designed height.
The originals had a few hard rubber cheaters forced in between the coils.

0405_30_184616_57ChevyStrippedFrontFrames.jpg 0406_30_184627_57ChevyStrippedSuspensionAndBrakePartss.jpg 0407_30_184638_57ChevyStrippedSuspensionAndBrakePartss.jpg
 

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1957 2 door sedan 210, (running) & 1957 2 door B/A hardtop (apart)[
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East Coast Chevy (Ol 55) in Doylestrown, PA has replacement boots, lower ball joint 10-131B, upper ball joint 10-132B, tie rod boot 10-096. Tie rood urethane boot 10-096A.
 

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Most of the time a complete kit ends up being cheaper than buying individual pieces and if some of it is shot then most of it is shot.
 

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It's early, but it looks like you still have ball bearing front hubs, I used some from a 62 implala years ago ( tapered) , good luck!
 
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