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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know many of you have kill switches to the positive battery cable located in the trunk near the trunk mounted battery. My question is, are there any problems with mounting the kill switch half way along the length of cable so I can turn the switch on/off from inside the car?

Does the interrupted cable effect the performance of the starter etc?

The cable is '0' size and nice and thick.

Andy
 

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You can mount the kill switch any where along the length of the cable.

Consider the following:

Make sure the cable is the correct guage for the distance.
The switch must be able to interrupt the supply current.

There are many styles of switches available, there are some with a removeable key.

If your running points you can put a kill switch to interupt the power to the distributor which means low guage wire & toggle switch.

The only thing to consider is that if you disconnect the positive side of the battery which also feeds the fusebox you will be disconnecting supply to such things as the memory settings on radio, any clocks etc etc.
 

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I have my kill switch in the trunk and used to have a a "theft" switch on the + side of my coil. (it would turn over but not start) but never tried the small wire off the cable.....:anim_25:
:gba:
bowtie-trifive
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am hoping I'm using the right term here. What I am referring to is the battery cut off switch. I believe most people install these to reduce the risk of fire.

I have just heard that placing a break in he battery cable may effect it's efficiency in starting the car?

Thanks again.
 

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I am hoping I'm using the right term here. What I am referring to is the battery cut off switch. I believe most people install these to reduce the risk of fire.

I have just heard that placing a break in he battery cable may effect it's efficiency in starting the car?

Thanks again.
It hasn't effected the starting efficiency in any of the cars I've owned. The '55s is in the trunk, the Anglias was under the rear roll pan, the Vickys was hidden under the dash and both Cobras were inside the cockpit. The Cobras were often vintage raced or open tracked and it was a requirement that there was an easily accessible "kill" switch for both electric and fuel.
 

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I have used these in 2 of my cars, and it works very well. Mount the disconnect solenoid near the batt. and you can put the small "cutoff" switch anywhere inside or outside the car that is easy to get to, but hidden. If I remember correctly, it also saves the memory, but not sure. It's a little pricey at $100.00, but works well. http://www.americanautowire.com/shop/remote-master-disconnect-switch-kit
 

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I have used these in 2 of my cars, and it works very well. Mount the disconnect solenoid near the batt. and you can put the small "cutoff" switch anywhere inside or outside the car that is easy to get to, but hidden. If I remember correctly, it also saves the memory, but not sure. It's a little pricey at $100.00, but works well. http://www.americanautowire.com/shop/remote-master-disconnect-switch-kit
Or build your own kit with this key ingredient:
http://www.allbatterysalesandservice.com/browse.cfm/4,2914.html

I'm putting mine on a wireless remote.
Total power shutdown of the car at a distance!

My starter is not actually going through this, mainly because I have a wagon and no desire to relocate my battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Thanks guys for the advice. I love the idea of a remote.
In thinking about this the reason for the cut off switch being as close to the battery as possible is that you protect more of the wire. Obviously that means then, the further away from the battery the less is protected.

The observation I make is, I am more concerned with the 56 year old wires under the dash causing the fire. When I think about my plan of running a second wire from the battery to the accessories, keeping that side of things always 'live' might just leave me with the same level of risk.
 

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Thanks guys for the advice. I love the idea of a remote.
In thinking about this the reason for the cut off switch being as close to the battery as possible is that you protect more of the wire. Obviously that means then, the further away from the battery the less is protected.

The observation I make is, I am more concerned with the 56 year old wires under the dash causing the fire. When I think about my plan of running a second wire from the battery to the accessories, keeping that side of things always 'live' might just leave me with the same level of risk.
No just fuse the small "memory" wire and you are all set!!
 

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Sorry BelRay, 'the small memory wire'. I am ignorant of most things electrical??
What exactly s that wire?

Andy
Sorry
That's the "live" wire that you will use for the radio/clock memory.
It doesn't draw much current at all, so you could just fuse it with a 3 amp fuse.
Don't power anything other than your memory to your stereo (usually a yellow wire) and maybe your clock.
That way you won't lose your station presets and time, each time you shut down the power.

Oh and if you do use a wireless remote for the solenoid, the wireless relay will need to be powered by this live wire also.
If you don't, you can shut it off, but can't turn it back on.
I am also putting in a hidden manual switch in case the remote goes south.
 
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