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Will there be any issues with the throttle linkage?
Negative. Should hook up and fit just fine with only a little adapting. Remember, with the BB in the stock position the measurement from the back of the block to the carb is the same. the difference in length is at the front of the motor.

If you end up moving the motor to the pass side some with adjustable motor mounts there should only be a little tweaking needed to the linkage.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
OK thanks 427. I'm also planning on manual front disc brakes. I've seen kits that require drilling another hole in the brake pedal for clearance. I'm guessing for the valve cover. Is this only when using a brake booster?
 

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Drilling a different hole in the brake pedal arm is not for clearance. It's about altering the brake performance with some brake boosters.
 

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I have a question, I'm sure it's been answered before, I have a 56 and I'm going BBC, was going to go 3/4 forward, does anyone know if the notched Chevy ii pan will clear the steering when moving forward 3/4, or do I have to use the milodon pan? Only reason I ask is that a friend has the Moroso pan that I can get for 125$.
 

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I don't know the answer to your question, but there's another thing to check out and consider. Some of those notched Moroso pans had a very deep sump, might not be the best for the street, especially with a lowered car.

Another possible issue is that on at least some of the Milodon pans, the drain plug faces the rear, and won't clear a Lakewood type bellhousing or block plate. Actually not too hard to make it clear, but you can't remove it for an oil change.

You can cut a notch to clear it but that's not something you want to do if you don't have to.
 

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No the pan will not work. I had to cut a inch and a half off mine and re weld it up for it to clear the drag link. If the engine is dropped down the drag link will work thru the notch like it was made to do. My mounts were already in my car when I got it. Mine had a 327 in it with a stock pan and it was hitting the pan when you turned the car in either direction. Hope this helps.
 

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One of the first steps of a big block install should be checking the frame for crossmember sag. When the crossmember sags the frame rails tilt inward at the top. The steering box sticks up higher than the top of the frame rail so if the top of the frame rail is tilted in a quarter inch the top of the steering box will be tilted in almost twice that amount.

It's a hassle checking for frame sag on an assembled car as the gauge holes are located under the upper control arms but I feel it's well worth the trouble. It's better than bashing in the #5 tube on your expensive new headers because the steering box is tilted in.



Here is one way of pulling a frame that has sagged. Notice the force is pushing up on the center of the crossmember and out on the frame rails.

 
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