Chevy Tri Five Forum banner
21 - 38 of 38 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
535 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
ook so i installed the new bearings but i didnt use any inside race i just slid the inner taperd bearing onto the spindle put the hub on than the front bearing ,washer,nut and cotter pin....was i supposed to have a inner race to put on 1st .....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
ok, I couldn't take it any longer...besides that seal looked suspect (is that profiling?)

Anyway,

Inner Taper Bearing Race P/N: LM67017-Bower-USA

So I think it should look like this when changing original '56 hubs to taper bearing:

Seal: Stock

Inner Taper Bearing: LM67046
Inner Bearing Race: LM67017

Outer Taper Bearing: LM11949
Outer Bearing Race: LM11916

Spindle Washer: Stock
Spindle Nut: Stock
Cotter Key: Stock
Dust Cover: Stock

I can't swear by this, but this is the set up on my '56.

Hope it helps

Oh, I didn't pull any races. Just going with what psb said on the outer race and what my inner race actually reads. I could read it only after pulling the seal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
535 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
i tryed to use the factory 56 race and the new tapperd bearing wouldnt go over it so i removed the old race on the inner and didnt use one ..i just looked on google and looked up 61 impala front spindle bearing kit and there is no inner race with the kit the shoed only outter one..???? do i reall need a inner race when i tightend everything down the spindle had no play at al it was perfectly mounted ...and the hub spun freely better than the old 56 set up
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37,986 Posts
With tapered roller bearings as well as the original ball bearings, the rollers (or balls) are attached to the inner race - there is no separate part that is the "inner race". Both bearings are two parts - the inner race and rolling elements is one part, and the outer race is the other part.

What did you do to set the bearing preload/end play?

For a roller bearing, torque the spindle nut to 12 ft-lb and then back off one flat and try to insert the cotter pin. If you can't back up the spindle nut just enough to insert the pin. This should require loosening the nut less than 1/2 flat additional. This should result in .001" to .008" end play.

For the stock ball bearing, the spindle nut is torqued to 33 ft-lb, then back off less than 1 flat to get the pin to insert. This results in a preload of the bearing.

I have paraphrased the 67 Chassis Service manual for the roller bearing and the 55 Shop manual for the ball bearing. You can see there is a big difference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
535 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
i did that exsactly i put everything on tightend it all down and then back it off a very small amount so th cotter pin would slide rite down and it did everything is smooth
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
jlow1979,

Sorry for the confusion.

My growing list was only for running the stock '56 year hub..

i.e. converting the stock '56 hubs from ball bearings - to - taper bearings without having to change to later model 61-68 full-size Chevy hubs.

like i think psb was trying to describe.
________________________



Rick L

I guess what I meant was:

Outer race = outer most race pressed onto the hub, as in towards the hub cap

Inner race = inner most race pressed onto the hub, as in towards the brake backing plate

does that make any sense? the part the rollers run on between the bearing rollers and the hub material.

what is the real terminology for that part?

man I'm confusing everyone, sorry.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
535 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
nah its ok i got it....i just was trying to make shure i wasnt missing anything ...the set up i used to day works very well the wheels turn so much smoother than the did before ...the only reason i even tryed this conversion is beacause i have a bad vibration from 50 and up so i thought it was the front bearings but after i finished up and took a ride it was still there the only other thing it could be it the crappy drive shaft i made for a temp and didnt balance it if i put another shaft in there and it still does it im just gonna burn the car to the ground cause i dont know what else it could be..unless the rear has a bad wheel bearing but ill only know this after i swap out the motor this week or next week...until than
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
"....im just gonna burn the car to the ground cause i dont know what else it could be..."
Hey, then it will look like mine ... well.. only after its been rained on for a year while being rolled over and over across a gravel drive on a tarp covered with salt.. lol .. don't do that.. I want mine to be the only one.. :rolleyes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Got it their called bearing cups... woo hoo.

I'll go back and edit my posts..

Naw that will just cause a bigger mess. Here let me remove all my confusing noob terminology.

__________________________

So I think it should look like this when changing the original '56 hubs from ball bearings -to - taper bearings... without changing to the 61-68 hubs:

Seal: Stock

Taper Bearing: LM67046
Bearing Race: LM67017

Taper Bearing: LM11949
Bearing Race: LM11916

Spindle Washer: Stock
Spindle Nut: Stock
Cotter Key: Stock
Dust Cover: Stock

This is the set up, as I found it, on my '56.
__________________________

Better yes/no ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,428 Posts
ook so i installed the new bearings but i didnt use any inside race i just slid the inner taperd bearing onto the spindle put the hub on than the front bearing ,washer,nut and cotter pin....was i supposed to have a inner race to put on 1st .....
Normally you replace both the bearing and the race at the same time
this is not a area to cut corners or try and save a buck if the bearings fail they can really mess things up.

Regards, Robert
 

·
Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
Joined
·
27,084 Posts
I think the problem is terminology, just too many inies and outies. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37,986 Posts
"what is the real terminology for that part?"

In the Timken catalog, the part with the inner race and the rollers is called a "cone". And the outer race is called a "cup".

I hadn't thought of inner and outer as to their location on the car but that's how the bearings themselves are referred to, so their components could be too.

So, yes, it can be confusing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
539 Posts
Very Cool!

I have been telling folks this for years.. you are the 1st to beleave me and find it and do it besides me that i have run into on the web... Great work and thank You!

psb,

Strange coincidence.

Today I pulled the front hub on my '56 expecting to find roller bearings, but instead found inner and outer tapered bearings. The drum was still riveted to the hub. So I thought what the heck do I have here?.

I jotted down the bearing numbers and did a TriFive search and found your post. Now how cool is that. Talk about timing.

The numbers I have:

Inner Taper Bearing: LM67046-Bower-USA
Outer Taper Bearing: LM11949-Timken-Made in USA

Didn't see any part numbers on the races.

There would have to be a different race for the inner taper bearing to run on than the stock one. I just don't know how to check for these race part numbers without pulling them..if the P/N's are even there to be found.

So until then it looks like this ? :confused0006:

Seal: Stock

Inner Taper Bearing: LM67046
Inner Bearing Race: ?

Outer Taper Bearing: LM11949
Outer Bearing Race: LM11916

Spindle Washer: Stock
Spindle Nut: Stock
Cotter Key: Stock
Dust Cover: Stock
 

·
Administrator & Tech Articles
Joined
·
52,880 Posts
I have been telling folks this for years.. you are the 1st to beleave me and find it and do it besides me that i have run into on the web... Great work and thank You!
Great to know....Lefty and I have been working on these TriFives for more than half a century and this is the first time we've heard of this bearing swap thing.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
next question bearings

hi guys

i'm restoring a 57 with front drums

after first drive the front bearings where making noise and scratching noise

when i took it out ,the bearing are much bigger than the spindle

know i wanna buy this conversionkit http://www.classicchevy.com/chevy-tapered-roller-bearing-hub-conversion-kit-1955-1960.html
whit these kit thus it fit the original 57 spindle??????

but i don't know if my spindle is original or my drums?


what do you guys think ?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yC5f51cD8Fw

allready thanks for helping
 

·
Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
Joined
·
27,084 Posts
when i took it out ,the bearing are much bigger than the spindle

but i don't know if my spindle is original or my drums?

what do you guys think ?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yC5f51cD8Fw

allready thanks for helping
The ball bearing fits on the inner race that's on the back of the spindle. The spindle is much smaller than the race, so it will be loose on the spindle. The hub with the outer bearing race, keeps the ball bearing against the inner bearing race.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
acardon

my english is not so good so i don't understand what youre saying


if i see on the picture http://www.classicchevy.com/chevy-wheel-bearing-kit-front-1956-1957.html
than i can see that the rollers come in the outer brace,but there is a inner brace that fits on te spindle(this inner brace is not in my bearing)
(the rollers can not sit on the spindle because there's now inner brace between the rollers and spindle)

is this the reason?


sorry for my stoopid questions

greatz
 
21 - 38 of 38 Posts
Top