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Looking good.
 

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nice work Max. what you do after lunch?
 

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Real nice work! I need the same and I think all the same pieces. Is that piece at the top of the picture the actual rear of the trunk floor or does it go under it? I have the rear 10 or 12" of floor but it doesn't look like that. I know there are a lot of layers there to make it all ridged to the frame mounts.
 

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well...where did the parts come from and how did they fit? I got to do this same stuff to mine as well...Nice work...also!!!
 

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Is that piece at the top of the picture the actual rear of the trunk floor or does it go under it? I have the rear 10 or 12" of floor but it doesn't look like that. I know there are a lot of layers there to make it all ridged to the frame mounts.
Those are the correct pieces you need (if you don't need the whole trunk floor). The rear trunk floor is sandwiched between the tail pan brace below it, and the tail pan itself above it. All those pieces are good reproductions of the originals and fit nicely. The trunk lower corners, not so much, you have to cut and weld on them to make them fit.

When you do this repair, fit it all up with sheet metal screws and minimal tack welds. Then blow it all back apart and finish weld with plug welds that emulate the factory spot welds.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Real nice work! I need the same and I think all the same pieces. Is that piece at the top of the picture the actual rear of the trunk floor or does it go under it? I have the rear 10 or 12" of floor but it doesn't look like that. I know there are a lot of layers there to make it all ridged to the frame mounts.
The piece you mentioned is 10 inches of trunk floor that you can either butt weld or overlay and weld. The piece fits good. Just takes some patience. Most trying parts were the two end pieces. I measured and marked the outline that needed to be cut. Like Rick L said on this post to use sheet metal screws to hold the piece in place to weld. I cut small strips of metal and screwed the strips to the new part and to the body. Two strips is all I needed. Used self tapping screws. One more thing. I made cardboard templates of the shape of the area I was to repair before I cut. In that way I could make sure the demensions were same as factory.
well...where did the parts come from and how did they fit? I got to do this same stuff to mine as well...Nice work...also!!!
I got the parts from a place in Michigan called cars inc
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Those are the correct pieces you need (if you don't need the whole trunk floor). The rear trunk floor is sandwiched between the tail pan brace below it, and the tail pan itself above it. All those pieces are good reproductions of the originals and fit nicely. The trunk lower corners, not so much, you have to cut and weld on them to make them fit.

When you do this repair, fit it all up with sheet metal screws and minimal tack welds. Then blow it all back apart and finish weld with plug welds that emulate the factory spot welds.
Those side pieces were the hardest. I lined up the part with my cuts. Secured it with 2 metal strips/sheet metal screws on the outside. I then cut metal strips that I attached to the inside of the new part and body using Gleko fastener. I used 5 metal strips, 14ga. Then plug welded those inside strips to give extra support and welded the two cuts together. I did it that way in order to eliminate as much bondo as possible. Which it did. Paint matched perfect. The place in Louisiana where I get my paint supplies does good work.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
These are pictures of removing a 2.73 differential and installing a new Quick Performance 3.73 differential along with disc brakes, new leaf springs. Pretty good for a 74 3/4 old man. Modified a transmission jack to install.
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