I bought one from eBay, it’s an older US made Napa pressure tester. Will do that, it arrived today.
Bertha’s loooooong saga
Ok, I am putting this thread together so I have a record for everyone to see, suggest, comment, and critique. I have been to the first six Nationals, all without Bertha. Seventh was the lucky charm! I can't let this happen again, it feels too weird.
Here is the list of what I have remaining to doin the next 334 days. By June 24, 2022
1.Get car back home to Auburn. (Yes, it is in Defuniak Spring FL. right now.)
Sheetmetal Work
1.Buy new one piece floor and trunk floor and install
2.Install new rockers
3.Install and repair quarter panels
4.Repair rust / dents in roof
5.New hood
6.New Cowl
7. Repair dash (knee dent on pass side)
8. New trunk-to-bumper panel install and smooth into quarters
9. Align trunk lid
10. Prep and prime and paint
Glass
1. Rechrome side glass frames
2.Buy and install glass. (Vent windows done)
Wiring - install AAW kit I bought
Drivetrain
1.Get motor running (already rebuilt)
2. Prep transmission (fluid and install filler tube)
3.Turn front brake rotors (they are new, but rusted a bit in the Florida humidity)
4.Buy and install gas tank (lines are already run)
5. Install steering column and wheel
6. Finish routing and hanging exhaust
Interior:
1. I already have a complete kit from Gina Ciadella (modified 670 trim). It is ready to install.
2. Install wipers, radio, etc. Just enough to make it fully functional
Trim
1.Buy new bumpers (front and rear) and install.
2. Finish polishing all of side trim. I have all of it, it just needs polishing.
3.Get new taillights and install
I think after this, it will be ready to drive to Nats. Not perfect, not complete, but drivable. That is what I want more than anything is for it to be drivable.
I amtossing around set on colors now, but will use a dark silver / gray metallic for the car with a dark blue metallic for trim Strato blue / white. I still have to decide on specific colors though. Paint is now a mix of the VW Strato Blue and Porsche Aetna Blue. I am sending a sample to Orion Automotive and it will be called "Bertha Blue"
Am I forgetting anything major? I have had this car for10 15 years, I need to get it on the road!!! Finished!
Here is the list of what I have remaining to do
1.
Sheetmetal Work
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9. Align trunk lid
10. Prep and prime and paint
Glass
1. Rechrome side glass frames
2.
Wiring - install AAW kit I bought
EngineDashInteriorRear body
Drivetrain
1.
2.
3.
4.
5. Install steering column and wheel
6.
Interior:
1. I already have a complete kit from Gina Ciadella (modified 670 trim). It is ready to install.
2. Install wipers, radio, etc. Just enough to make it fully functional
Trim
1.
2. Finish polishing all of side trim. I have all of it, it just needs polishing.
3.
I think after this, it will be ready to drive to Nats. Not perfect, not complete, but drivable. That is what I want more than anything is for it to be drivable.
I am
Am I forgetting anything major? I have had this car for
941 - 960 of 1103 Posts
Boy you've really had some bad luck lately. I'd say time to step back, take a breather and analyze what might be happening. Hopefully you'll find something minor. Good luck.One big positive step though, my fuel gauge is hooked up finally and working perfectly!
Just thinking about your situation, After a pressure test, before you pull the engine, why not pull the intake. then the heads off and see if it might be a gasket or something detectable with heads removed. You will pull the heads anyway, so why not try that 1st? Is it possible that an engine builder can test the block "in car" with head off? I know heads can be checked alone. Is it possible that the intake is not compatible with your heads (wrong angles)? Examining the head to intake gaskets and head gaskets might tell a story. Was the block "decked for flatness and heads planed? Just some thoughts.Boy you've really had some bad luck lately. I'd say time to step back, take a breather and analyze what might be happening. Hopefully you'll find something minor. Good luck.
I just recalled a show on "Phantom Works" where they had a coolant leaking into the crankcase (SBC), and they discovered that below the intake there was a device that was in the valley that prevented the intake from being able to fully seat against the head. It was a GM factory component, near the back of the valley, but not compatible with the intake they were using. This is a longshot but worth checking.
Fingers crossed that it is something simple/inexpensive
Well, I am at a crossroads on the engine. The silver lining is that I will have the front end ripped apart to redo every thing that was bothering me, was not correct, or should have been done. Here is the fork in the road I’ve come to. Also, Lindsay agreed that my workshop needs heat to prevent this from ever happening again. I know it probably never will, but hush! I’m getting a workshop upgrade out of it!
1. Rework the 327 for Bertha. Regardless of what happens, that engine will get torn down and inspected. If it’s a cracked cylinder, it will get sleeved. Any other work that needs to get done will get done. No clue on cost yet as I don’t know what’s wrong. If I do build it up for Bertha, I am would do the roller cam swap so I can quit worrying about wiping out a cam. Once it’s repaired, I will build it back up and have my machinist run it on his break in stand and make sure it purrs like a kitten before going in Bertha again. I’m heavily leaning towards this as it will be much cheaper.
2. I have a 5.3 aluminum LS that I have been somewhat secretly building up in the corner. The block is ready for build and I have a complete balanced rotating assembly. Flattop pistons with valve reliefs, Scat rods, and 58x ring. I will get a warmer than stock cam, but mild. 706 heads and Holley Atomic2 or Terminator EFI. Holley in-tank system for stock tanks.
Either way, I would still run the TH350 because it’s quasi - idiot proof and I FINALLY got those darn fittings.
Either way, I just want Bertha to run and drive. I think everyone can sense my frustration at this point. I will be spending most of the time over the next couple months getting the engine compartment back where I want it, all of the wiring and tubing cleaned up and looking professional. Once the engine is in and running, I will start on the body again. My main goal is to have it drive to the shows this coming summer, even if the paint and body ain’t finished. This whole winter went sideways and hosed up my plans but that is life. Not the first time, won’t be the last.
One good point is that my new brake pad are in and seem to grip well. Last set were contaminated with grease I think.
1. Rework the 327 for Bertha. Regardless of what happens, that engine will get torn down and inspected. If it’s a cracked cylinder, it will get sleeved. Any other work that needs to get done will get done. No clue on cost yet as I don’t know what’s wrong. If I do build it up for Bertha, I am would do the roller cam swap so I can quit worrying about wiping out a cam. Once it’s repaired, I will build it back up and have my machinist run it on his break in stand and make sure it purrs like a kitten before going in Bertha again. I’m heavily leaning towards this as it will be much cheaper.
2. I have a 5.3 aluminum LS that I have been somewhat secretly building up in the corner. The block is ready for build and I have a complete balanced rotating assembly. Flattop pistons with valve reliefs, Scat rods, and 58x ring. I will get a warmer than stock cam, but mild. 706 heads and Holley Atomic2 or Terminator EFI. Holley in-tank system for stock tanks.
Either way, I would still run the TH350 because it’s quasi - idiot proof and I FINALLY got those darn fittings.
Either way, I just want Bertha to run and drive. I think everyone can sense my frustration at this point. I will be spending most of the time over the next couple months getting the engine compartment back where I want it, all of the wiring and tubing cleaned up and looking professional. Once the engine is in and running, I will start on the body again. My main goal is to have it drive to the shows this coming summer, even if the paint and body ain’t finished. This whole winter went sideways and hosed up my plans but that is life. Not the first time, won’t be the last.
One good point is that my new brake pad are in and seem to grip well. Last set were contaminated with grease I think.
Both seem good options. I suspect the 5.3 would make more power and it’s a more robust motor. The 327 has that “old school cool” factor. Sort of a “function vs form” argument. No right or wrong answer, really.
I guess the only real question is which appeals to you. Either are going to require a certain amount of effort and expense. Easy for me to say, but you’ve worked on this car long enough that I think you should do the one you want, rather than the one that represents the path of least resistance.
Good luck with whichever way you go!
I guess the only real question is which appeals to you. Either are going to require a certain amount of effort and expense. Easy for me to say, but you’ve worked on this car long enough that I think you should do the one you want, rather than the one that represents the path of least resistance.
Good luck with whichever way you go!
have you pressure tested the engine yet to find the leak?? from the sounds of it you're jumping to conclusions. could be something as simple as a intake gasket leak
Holley terminator X for the 5.3L but get the max version so you can run a 4L60e later, to gain OD.
Also CR will be 10.2:1 with 706 and 10–14 valve relief flat tops. Even the valve reliefs won’t drop it much .2-.3 points. Going to be ruff with 87 gas With 706 heads HP will be down. Ideally to take advantage of cam need 91-93 gas. It will run on 87 just have to dial back timing.
Also CR will be 10.2:1 with 706 and 10–14 valve relief flat tops. Even the valve reliefs won’t drop it much .2-.3 points. Going to be ruff with 87 gas With 706 heads HP will be down. Ideally to take advantage of cam need 91-93 gas. It will run on 87 just have to dial back timing.
not if you know how to tune. we made 430hp at the rear wheels on 87 octane with an ls2 @10.7 to 1Holley terminator X for the 5.3L but get the max version so you can run a 4L60e later, to gain OD.
Also CR will be 10.5:1 with 706 and flat tops. Even the valve reliefs won’t drop it much. Going to be ruff with 87 gas.
I will pressure test next weekend. Either way I’m thinking of pulling the front end apart anyway to make things right that are wonky. There are things that are bugging me that need to be addressed to make it proper.
It’s hard to believe the 327 is that messed up from sitting in your garage in AL! What a shame if it is. You are doing the right thing by having it checked out before you go any further.
Larry
Larry
Even if its just a wonky gasket that caused it, I am going to re-gasket the whole thing, put the roller cam and lifters in, and have Roy put it on his break in stand. Here is a video of Roy breaking in a Pontiac 400 on his stand. He is the one that has done all of the machine work on all of my engines.It’s hard to believe the 327 is that messed up from sitting in your garage in AL! What a shame if it is. You are doing the right thing by having it checked out before you go any further.
Larry
I think it is important to know exactly what caused your leak before you make a decision. In the end an LS would be desirable, but more complicated, and time consuming. Going that route might jeopardize your plans for use this summer(?) I have come to the conclusion that whenever I deviate from "stock" I introduce a host of unanticipated issues to resolve, aka "mission creep". The 327 is the least difference from stock, and probably the least difficulty to getting where you want to be. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. When you put heat in the shop, you might consider a "heat pump" that can give you AC as well (?)
An efficient 'mini-split is the only way to go.. less expensive, easier to install, and provides both heat and cool. A 1.5 T mini-split works great in my 1200 sf shop.......When you put heat in the shop, you might consider a "heat pump" that can give you AC as well (?)
It seems to me the 327, if usable, is the easier of the two if you want to be driving this summer. I am not poo pooing the LS, I think they are terrific motors but I think there is a learning curve, some additional wiring to be done, I assume some other parts and pieces to make it all work like motor mounts and transmission mounts, and things of the like. Not insurmountable of course, but in terms of expediency, seems like the 327 is a drop back in and go situation. In addition, you will be pressing to get the LS motor done and installed in the next couple of months. I just dont see that as enjoyable. Maybe the play is to stuff the 327 back in and take your time with the LS motor. Gather the parts and pieces, lay out a game plan, and when the time is right, make the swap. Less time pressure and more tinkering pleasure.
I was digging through my really old emails of when I bought Bertha back in 2007. Here are the photos I received from @57 sedan delivery before I bought it. Honestly, the only thing that remains of the original car are the A pillars, door hinges, all the trim and steering, rear axle, and frame.
![Tire Wheel Automotive tire Automotive lighting Tread]()
![Hood Automotive lighting Wheel Automotive tire Tire]()
![Wood Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Fender]()
![Wood Asphalt Road surface Gas Tints and shades]()
![Automotive lighting Bumper Wood Paint Automotive exterior]()
![Automotive lighting Paint Wood Tints and shades Automotive exterior]()
![Wheel Tire Car Automotive parking light Vehicle]()
![Wheel Automotive tire Tire Motor vehicle Tread]()
![Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Gas]()
![Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior Fender]()
man, you have done yeoman’s work saving that car!
Thanks! I forgot to mention the quarter panel skins are from the original body too. I've made a lot of progress, but it seems like I have just as far to go. I worked on other stuff today, but did get the front end ready to start ripping apart again. I drained the Dex coolant, will dump that. I'm thinking from the amount of water that the intake manifold may have cracked or the gasket let loose as its just about the specific amount of water that was in the oil that was in the water neck area. At least that's what I'm hoping.man, you have done yeoman’s work saving that car!
Fingers crossed! I am really hoping it’s just a bad intake gasket.
941 - 960 of 1103 Posts
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