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I really want a solid roller but a retrofit system is too much money at this point. Who makes a good quality product with a good selection? I know comp is the biggest name, but that's the reason I'm hesitant to go with them. I have a fresh 383 with 10.5 SCR and 195 AFR heads. I just need a quality product, dont want it going flat on me. Thanks for any help!
 

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I really want a solid roller but a retrofit system is too much money at this point. Who makes a good quality product with a good selection? I know comp is the biggest name, but that's the reason I'm hesitant to go with them. I have a fresh 383 with 10.5 SCR and 195 AFR heads. I just need a quality product, dont want it going flat on me. Thanks for any help!
I use a lot of Bullet/Ultradyne cams and always use a P-55 cam core and its considered a performance core and on lifters I use a tool steel lifter which is a lot of money over a chilled cast iron lifter.
 

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I have had very good luck with Crower, but then again I have heard great things about Bullet cams too...their "custom" grinds aren't much more money than so called shelf grinds. Single pattern cams work really good with AFR heads or just sligthly more exhaust duration. Good luck.
 

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i like my cam, i have 10.1 cr, and 195 pro filer heads on a 383. its a comp cam xs282s. it has good street manners and sounds real healthy. and it makes a broad torque curve and good power. and has excellent throttle response with the dual plain intake. theres a video of how the motor sounds on here. the thread is dyno pull, sweet, sweet music
 

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Comp Cams esp those for BBC hold the record for flat cams from the stories I have heard. I have had good luck with Sealed power grinds like 375 hp 327 and 425 hp 427.
 

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Comp Cams esp those for BBC hold the record for flat cams from the stories I have heard.
That´s probably because they sell more cams than others, there is also more flat lobes...:) The thruth is that canted valve engines like BBC chevys are hard on camshaft´s, if there is even minor issue with lifter bore the result is more than likely flat lobe. Heavy valvespring loads, heavy valvetrain, super fast cam ramps and side loading to lifter isn´t the ideal combination. ´Factory´ flat tappet grinds seems to have better longevity due more conservative ramp desing.
 

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I really want a solid roller but a retrofit system is too much money at this point. Who makes a good quality product with a good selection? I know comp is the biggest name, but that's the reason I'm hesitant to go with them. I have a fresh 383 with 10.5 SCR and 195 AFR heads. I just need a quality product, dont want it going flat on me. Thanks for any help!
I couldn´t resist and looked some crower grinds for your combo...:) btw! do you need small base cam for your 383? what kind of connecting rods you have, stroker style with shorter bolts or ´normal´ rods??? Crower make both versions of this grind. http://www.crower.com/index.php/camshafts/chevy-262-400-compu-pro-solid-cam.html :anim_25:
 

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Comp Cams 294 solid flat tappet in my 383, no issues.

Phil
I've had good luck with Summit cams actually. Bad luck with Comp hydraulic lifters though, (I know you're not using that though). I would use SEC Johnson lifters. Excellent quality and made in the USA!
 

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I think 'cool face' lifters with direct oiling to cam lobe are also a good idea with flat tappet cam, but you should verify correct pushrod lenght because plunger height is different than with 'normal' lifters...at least that's the case with Crower lifters.
As speaking of flat lobes...I had very mild hydro comp cam in my 390fe and when I pulled it couple lobes were allready going south after couple hundred miles...I changed that cam to Crower solid flat tappet with much more aggresive ramps and I have not noticed any wear at all while adjusting valves. The crower is p55 core.
 

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(Mikko knows why, but THIS is my kinda thread!)

I like the numbers of Chevylane55's cam. I bet it pulls hard even around town.

I built a 385 with Dart 200's and 10.5. I used one of my oldschool favorite Isky 505's. Had to get it built with a small base cuz of the bolts. It worked (works) really well. I sold the motor to a kid and he put it into a heavy 66 Chevelle. He now has gotten that thing into the mid 12's on street treaded tires!

Get really anal with your break-in procedure and you won't have any problems. Be sure to compensate for cold metal when running your valves, and most importantly add ZDDP to the oil before even thinking about cranking it.
 
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