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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I would like to use braided brake line for my “rear to front” line as I am not running a stock rear end. My question is; Is what I’m looking at okay to use, or what are the draw backs verses using a regular hard brake line.
I found the below brake lines on eBay (Brand New -3AN Straight to Straight Stainless Braided Brake Line 60”. This has a Teflon inner core with a braided exterior. Both ends have steel swivel fittings.) I was going to use two lines, 60" and a 54" to make to (9’ 6” line) from my rear cross member to the block next to the idler arm.

I need to know if I'm totally crazy or going the right direction.

The eBay Item number is: 190462963024. Many lengths to choose from.
 

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I don;t know if you are crazy but it seems like overkill to me.

A roll of 1/4 inch brake line is about 20 bucks and a brake line double flairing tool is about the same. Takes about 10 min to double flare both ends with the fitting and you are good to go.

I think the suppliers also sell prebent stainless steel brake lines if you are worried about rust. seems like it would be alot stronger and safer too. just my 2cents.
Gary
 

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Sounds like Gary's got a point David. Why don't you buy what he said but get enough to do mine too and we can get mine running outside the frame!:sign0020:

I haven't done much more other than painting the engine bay. Too darn cold.

Don
 

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I had this explained to me by the folks at www.finelines.com , don't do it! The lines will flex if they are not rigid and you do not want a long run line to flex. The presure that is in those lines is greater than you think, that's why hard lines are used. The fronts from the brcket to the wheel OK, the back from the bracket to the T Ok, but DO NOT USE BRAIDED FOR LONG RUNS! That's according to Fine Lines.
 

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The only time you should run flex line on brakes is to the a wheel with independent suspension. As mentioned the pressures are quite high and you do not want any expansion.
The double flares can be tricky but you can use AN fittings instead.
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you very much, johnnybil57 & Jim'57. HARD LINES IT IS! and since I will be buying a 25 foot roll, there will be plently for Don's 57 also!!!! :tu
I do need some trial and error on getting the bending part down. But for 8 bucks, I can afford to make a lot of mistakes and when we do Don's 57 it'll be perfect!

Ebay:

Steel Brake Line Coil 3/16" x 25 foot Dual Wall Seamless Tubing 16,000 psi Zinc plated $8.00
 

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Thank you very much, johnnybil57 & Jim'57. HARD LINES IT IS! and since I will be buying a 25 foot roll, there will be plently for Don's 57 also!!!! :tu
I do need some trial and error on getting the bending part down. But for 8 bucks, I can afford to make a lot of mistakes and when we do Don's 57 it'll be perfect!

Ebay:

Steel Brake Line Coil 3/16" x 25 foot Dual Wall Seamless Tubing 16,000 psi Zinc plated $8.00
I think you are making a wise decision, but you need 1/4 inch not 3/16

The single lines that run to each wheel are 3/16 but the long lines (that service more than one wheel) are 1/4 inch.

IM not sure about dual wall either, (what does that mean? extra thick?) I would suggest, Just ask for bundy tubing at your local NAPA store. It's very easy to bend
 

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Pretty cool David! Those are not the rims that I gave you from my 57' are they? You couldn't have cleaned them up that good. Your chassis looks pretty good.

Don
 

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I think either size works fine. What I do is use the size of line that whatever I'm attaching it to needs without adapters. Makes life simpler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Don,

Sorry for the delay in answering you, work keeps getting in the way of my fun time. Yes they are the same rims; I had two Cragar center caps in the bottom of my tool box. As you showed me "BRILLO PADS" and lots of elbow grease!
 

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Even surprised me David! They came out looking great in the picture. Hopefully we get some warmer weather back so I can get more done on mine.

Don
 

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Eastbay68

On another note where did you acquire your independant rear shock mount? Did U fab it? All the aftermarket ones I've seen were designed using tubular steel for the cross bar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The shock mount was there when I bought the chassis. Some of the work on the chassis is done very well some was so-so, but I am very happy with it. I bought the chassis (through ebay) from a body shop in Modesto, CA. The owner was restoring a 55 and a 57 for customers. One customer was not happy with the 57 chassis he did and ordered a compete chassis from AME. That's the one I got. Not that you wanted the history of my chassis but....:)
 

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