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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I am new on the forum, and writing to all the members from France. I have since 25 years a 55 4dr Sedan Bel Air, 6 cyl, 3 speeds mecanic gear box, all original.

I am starting again my bel Bel Air after 7 years in my garage with no use at all...

I have a break problem and maybe someone can help me. I have installed a new dual master cyl with power booster and changed all the lines.

When I brake the left front wheel is totally blocked. I have to wait a while to be able to move it again. When I opened the drum I saw that the brake shoes does'nt have the same size and the same position on the right and left wheel. On the left one, the shoe on the front was a long one, and a short on the back of the drum. And it is the opposit (long in front and short at the back) for the right weel. Wich one is the proper way ? The shoes are not original, they are new manufactured, I get them something like 6 years ago. But the drums are original.

I will changed also the 4 wheel cylinder and add a auto adjusting kit for the 4 wheels.

Do you have any idea why 1 wheel get blocked like that when I brake ? I did clean the brake wheel cylinder, they where full of rust...

thanks for you help and sorry for my rough english

rg
 

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:hello: hi rg and welcome. good to have you here. something doesn't sound right with those shoes. not sure, but i think those shoes should be the same size in the wheel. :stupido2: pics would help.
 

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Trifive Newsletter Editor
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RG,

I just replaced the entire brake system on my 210 this weekend. My backing plates and drums were good but all lines, cylinders and MC needed replacing. AMENDED: I lucked into getting my shoes installed correctly with the large pad facing rear and the short pad facing the front. Thank you to Tabasco (below) for pointing out my error.

Assuming you have the stock drum brakes like me, you should have had the same shoe set up as I show in the pictures. I have attached a picture of before and after (different sides of the front) for you to see.

If you added self adjusters then you will have the floating metal plate making contact with the adjuster that is not in my pictures.

You have a lot to remove to get to the front brakes again so make you double check your torque setting and cotter pins after reassembly.
 

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RG,

I just replaced the entire brake system on my 210 this weekend. My backing plates and drums were good but all lines, cylinders and MC needed replacing. While the shoes are different between front and rear, they are not different on the same axle. Assuming you have stock drum brakes, you should have had the same shoes. I have attached a picture of before and after (different sides of the front) for you to see.

If you added self adjusters then you will have the floating metal plate making contact with the adjuster that is not in my pictures.

You have a lot to remove to get to the front brakes again so make you double check your torque setting and cotter pins after reassembly.

Cleaned up really good. Believe your post is right on. :gba:
bowtie-trifive
 

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Short shoe to front, long shoe to rear...

Did you replace the rubber lines from frame to wheel cylinder? They can cause a wheel to lock and not let go for a while... Also if the wheel cylinders were rusty inside it's time to replace them...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Great thanks to all...and sorry for not answering sooner....
I finally managed to get all my break job done properly
Just started my Bel Air after 2 years in my garage...the fuel pump just broke done (leaking...) had to order a new one.
1st of July, cars older than 2006 will be banned from Paris (except night and weekend)...
Eco friendly project...but not for our rare vintage 50's cars in paris
cheers
regis
 
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