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On another note don’t worry about the dizzy problems seems like I do it on a frequent basis, hell just yesterday I had a 496 on a test stand and we just put headers on and totally overlooked a big issue…….. I fired it up and it started right away with a small adjustment of idle screw , but it sounded weak and had a odd flutter to her I give it a quick blip of throttle to see if it was starved of fuel????
Let it idle and I walked to other side looking things over and seen a gray msd plug end on valve cover😳 I asked partner to shut it off and if he seen anything odd (his side mind you) intently looking it over he thought I was screwing with him ……and said I don’t see it ? I asked him to look at plugs and he explained yup that’s a problem! It wasn’t one it was all four 🤫 after that we laughed and said one more thing to double check! It’s crazy 😜 but it happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #442 ·
Sorry man and have to add this.

First, am glad you might have solved the number 1 problem, but why are you even messing with EFI on that old school drag type hotrod? Once the EFI is working correctly it’s going to flatten out most of any cam chop, and do you plan long cross country trips and want max fuel mileage? Not at all trying to belittle, but the brain is trying to understand the final goal..?
It's all good, and to each their own, of course, but I don't like carburetors. They're nothing but trouble for me with hard starts, fuel leaks, constant maintenance and tuning required and all around poor performance. Other than doing a stock restoration I'll never use one again on any of my car builds, not even if they were free. With a set up like this I get the old school look with better performance in every aspect (better cold starts, throttle response, all around drivability, WOT performance, long term reliability, lower maintenance requirements, self adjusting for weather and elevation changes, and yeah, fuel economy too)

the other option was Hilborn, but they were considerably more expensive, and I wouldn't be able to use a tunnel ram.
 

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Discussion Starter · #443 · (Edited)
OK, update on my car: I had a friend stop over to look at my engine to adjust the valves who knows a thing or two about Chevy engines. I removed the valve covers, he took a brief look and said I've got a problem. He was able to tell just by looking at it that my valvetrain was set up wrong. So I had too short of push rods on the intake valves, too short of rocker arm studs, and too small of the rocker arm retainer bolts. This happened last week. He determined the size I needed and came back today with the new parts and installed them for me and set the valve lash. then he advanced the timing a few degrees, and suggested I change my FITech throttle linkage to a 1:1 set up. I did that and it runs much better. No videos or pics worth showing at the moment, but I'll get some video soon. it now starts and idles and doesn't pop or backfire. It's also not blowing clouds of fuel out the exhaust, either. That's the good news. The bad news is my engine is leaking like a sieve. I'll have to check back into all that another day. ugh. I did put a few miles on the car this evening, which was fun. Still needs an alignment, too. but it's ok enough to drive around locally. I also need to seriously adjust my speedometer. it says I'm doing 100mph when I'm doing about 10 mph lol

As for my brakes- I replaced the master cylinder with one that has a larger bore (corvette- 1 1/8" bore) and relocated the push rod lower on the brake pedal to move more fluid , and now the brakes work great, just like they should.
 

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Discussion Starter · #444 ·
more updates. Engine still isn't right so it's coming out to be rebuilt. professionally. good times
 

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Where did you get the engine from originally?
I bought a TH400 that was supposed to be newly rebuilt and the innards were garbage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #446 ·
Where did you get the engine from originally?
I bought a TH400 that was supposed to be newly rebuilt and the innards were garbage.
I had a friend build it, and sadly he passed away earlier this year, so there is no taking it back to him for service.
 

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Sorry about your friend.
Leaks can be troublesome...good thing you noticed. I lost a REALLY nice 327 / 375 HP motor when the (ugh!! plastic) oil pressure line let go on the hightway.
The fix might not be so bad. Can you narrow it down? I would first look at the front and back side of the Intake, the oil pan, and the dipstick tube, and yes, the oil pressure line (metal, of course). Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #448 ·
Sorry about your friend.
Leaks can be troublesome...good thing you noticed. I lost a REALLY nice 327 / 375 HP motor when the (ugh!! plastic) oil pressure line let go on the hightway.
The fix might not be so bad. Can you narrow it down? I would first look at the front and back side of the Intake, the oil pan, and the dipstick tube, and yes, the oil pressure line (metal, of course). Good Luck.
also have an internal head gasket leak too that bars pellets and a bottle hasn't fixed. between the valvetrain misassembly, the head gasket leaks, the oil leaks, i don't want to be chasing gremlins like this. I'd rather take it out and have it done over again to be done right.
 

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Hi Everyone:

Although I haven't posted much on this board yet, I've been reading a bunch of threads here and gathering info and inspiration for my car- a '55 2 door post. And guess what- I want to build a gasser with it. Now, I'm just wrapping up a 5.5 year build on another car of mine- a '67 Firebird and I'm still working the bugs out of that one, so I'm not really itching to get into this too heavy just yet (and the funds need to replenish, too) but I figured I may as well start a build thread here. It may keep me motivated to keep going on it.

The plan is for a rough n dirty low budget build. Nothing pretty. Sparce interior, etc. yet drivable. I'm partly inspired from everybody's favorite gasser from 2lbt so it may look something like this. If it scares prius drivers I'll grin from ear to ear.

The car I bought is rough and it was cheap. It was a stalled race car project. The floor is gone, and there was some caked dirt underneath. However, it came with glass doors, front clip and trunk a la 2lbt, so I'm happy that I have these already. The car came with wheel tubs, a 9" housing and an aftermarket leaf spring set up, as well as chrome-moly tubular control arms for the front. I sold those arms and sourced a front axle from a '57 Chevy truck as well as some 200s rims from another member on this board. I also have a few boxes of loose various parts for the car which will help.

Today I started cutting the floor out. Although I do have replacement pans it looks like I'll need some seat bracing and inner rockers, too. I'll have more time between Christmas and the new year so hopefully I'll get more of the old floor removed.

I'll keep adding to this as I go along. The choice of engine is not finalized yet. Nor is the trans, though I do know it'll have a clutch pedal whatever I end up with.
Check out Finnigan's "Blasphemi" '55 on youtube or ROADKILL TV ..... alot of info on the build , might give ya some ideas ...... it's a '55 !!!! should be awesome no matter how ya do it !!!!
 

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also have an internal head gasket leak too that bars pellets and a bottle hasn't fixed. between the valvetrain misassembly, the head gasket leaks, the oil leaks, i don't want to be chasing gremlins like this. I'd rather take it out and have it done over again to be done right.
Have your heads checked in the exhaust ports around the guides for cracks. and in the valve spring seat area as well the exhaust guides are tapered and if presses out the wrong direction it will crack the heads. not uncommon. also be real picky on head gaskets felpro 1027 or cometic mls are all I would consider.
run a tap thru all head bolt holes and use locktite 620 thread sealer on all the bolt threads as they go in the water jacket.
 
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Discussion Starter · #452 ·
mall updates.

1- I removed the engine completely. My buddy tore it down and it was all bad inside, too. cam wasn't secured well, and main bearings were on their way out, too. so it was a good thing I pulled it. I'm looking at a total rebuild. Unfortunate, but it could have been worse, and I have experienced worse.

2- Today I rebuilt the kingpins on my front axle. It was something I should have done as I was building the car, but for some reason thought I didn't need to, until I started driving the car then I realized how worn out they really were. I'm glad I did it, too, as I noticed how bent up my Speedway steering arm was with less than ten miles of driving time. It's in need of repair and reinforcement. I pulled the arm and straightened it, and next weekend will fabricate and weld up some ribbing around it to strengthen it. Glad I caught this now and not the hard way. I'll also reinforce the other two arms for safe measure. I'd rather it be heavier and up to the task than light, weak and unsafe.
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The rebuild sucks but it looks like your throwing in your all into into the engine project. I had the Speedway steering arm on my 57 with the spacer, scary how much it would flex even without the spacer. My 55 project has a 3/8" thick steering arm cut out of a 4X4 square tube on my 3100 axle.

344726
 

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So what’s the plan with the motor????
you giving it more cubes or stroke, or a nice set of H beams…..it’s out make it worth the pull , when mine had the fractured lifter due to Howard’s quality or as they said my non thrust button use on my flat tappet? I just went to the 496 tall deck and believe me I’m glad I did☠☠She’s wicked fun and can’t get enough compliments ☠☠
 

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mall updates.

1- I removed the engine completely. My buddy tore it down and it was all bad inside, too. cam wasn't secured well, and main bearings were on their way out, too. so it was a good thing I pulled it. I'm looking at a total rebuild. Unfortunate, but it could have been worse, and I have experienced worse.

2- Today I rebuilt the kingpins on my front axle. It was something I should have done as I was building the car, but for some reason thought I didn't need to, until I started driving the car then I realized how worn out they really were. I'm glad I did it, too, as I noticed how bent up my Speedway steering arm was with less than ten miles of driving time. It's in need of repair and reinforcement. I pulled the arm and straightened it, and next weekend will fabricate and weld up some ribbing around it to strengthen it. Glad I caught this now and not the hard way. I'll also reinforce the other two arms for safe measure. I'd rather it be heavier and up to the task than light, weak and unsafe. View attachment 344719 View attachment 344720 View attachment 344721 View attachment 344722 View attachment 344723 View attachment 344724 View attachment 344725
Better to catch this stuff now, rather than on the road. I have the same Speedway steering arms. Please post your fix.
 

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Not only do I have the same speedway steering arm, I have the very same condition. Let me know how you fix it.
I think a stiffener along the top would do it.
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Discussion Starter · #458 ·
Looking into a 496 stroker with my engine. My limiter now is a good set of heads. It seems that everyone is on backorder for what I need. My goal is to have this back up n running in time for our Hot Wheels collectors convention in October. Plenty of folks that attend are dying to see this car, and I don't want to
Not only do I have the same speedway steering arm, I have the very same condition. Let me know how you fix it.
I think a stiffener along the top would do it.
View attachment 344848 View attachment 344849
Wow! yeah, and I used the closer hole, too. it should be stronger by using this. Yeah, my plan is to weld a vertical wall around this to strengthen it. I'll be sure to post when completed.
 

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If I can, I will use the closer hole AND make the spacer as short as possible.
I need a spacer for the steering link to clear the chassis crossmember.
A stiffening rib is also a good idea, to resist the twisting effect.

Like you, I'm going through quite a bit of de-bugging. If you recall the master relay we discussed, I found that with the battery connected, the relay is always energized and gives off a lot of heat. It also places a drain on the battery.
So what I did was take it out of the circuit electrically. I can reconnect it if I bring the car to the track, which will probably be never. You just remove the master relay coil "hot" wire and move the load wires to the same terminal.

I also have a flat front tire.....

Good luck with the motor.
 

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did the same one time, pulled the covers and adjusted valves - started it up sounded awful - forgot all the plugs on passenger side.
 
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