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Not only do I have the same speedway steering arm, I have the very same condition. Let me know how you fix it.
I think a stiffener along the top would do it.
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It looks like removing the spacer will actually move the drag link away from the springs, and make things better. And I doubt it will affect bump steer hardly at all with the angle changing so little.
I've seen so many arms, (stock and aftermarket) bent from spacers being used, that I avoid any spacers more than about 3/4" tall. The taller they are, the more likely they'll result in a twisted arm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #462 ·
It looks like removing the spacer will actually move the drag link away from the springs, and make things better. And I doubt it will affect bump steer hardly at all with the angle changing so little.
I've seen so many arms, (stock and aftermarket) bent from spacers being used, that I avoid any spacers more than about 3/4" tall. The taller they are, the more likely they'll result in a twisted arm.
That makes sense, although I've retained the spacer which allows me to have a full I beam in this area, I moved the washers to the top side which reduces the leverage against the steering arm. I need them to retain the proper grip length as this was the closest length aircraft bolt I could find. With that, here's what I did:

1- straightened my steering arm as best I could
2- used some metal that I had in my pile of metal. it's hardware store special, but I hope it's strong enough. I added an "I beam" around most of it making sure I could tie into at least one of the mounting tabs. The caliper was in the way for the other side. and a couple of rubs- one on the top and one on the bottom. Wish I had a working oxy acetylene torch to really heat up the metal. All I had was a bottle of map gas. it worked, but barely, and took a while.
3- removed weld around the bolt hole area to allow the nut and washers to sit flush. I used my mill. I also added a plug weld on the outside edge to help retain strength to the part.
4- painted it and reinstalled today. Of course, I really won't know if this works until the engine is in and I cna drive it again. and if it needs more repair I'll deal with it at that time.

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So I straightened the steering arm and removed the spacer entirely.
I checked the steering link and its dead level without the spacer, so I should not have an bump steer issues.
I was able to use the second bolt bolt hole and cut off the excess. My steering is now more responsive.
Got it all put together and went for a ride around the block.
Surprise!!!!! I now have a wicked death rattle at 45-50 MPH.
Went home and checked the tire pressure and the stud bolt torque.
Went for another ride and ....same death rattle.
So, back home. I checked the Toe-in and found it to be 1/4" toed-out.
I don't know how this changed but I DID find loose jam nuts on the drag link.

I think the toe-in is supposed to be 1/16 to 1/8. Tuske or 1971BB....can you confirm?
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #469 ·
good to know, I still need to get my car aligned, and will do so after it's up n running. for now it's just guesstimated...
 

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Discussion Starter · #470 ·
some updates:

1- got the car aligned on Friday. Turns out my axle is bent so my camber is not the same on both sides, nor is the caster for that matter. the caster is easy enough to fix with more shimming on one side, but the car seems to drive straight enough to not be worth the fuss, and the camber also isn't affecting the drive, but visually it does bug me a little. I understand there's a shop in LB that specializes in bending axles, so I may look into this at some point. it's not an urgent repair. More importantly, my steering arm seems to be holding up so far. I'm still keeping an eye on it, though. Also of note the car is only .02º from being square, so I did a decent job building this. Makes me very happy.

2- got the windows tinted today. It looks so much better now, imo. I had bought a bunch of vintage stickers for the side window, so I'm not sure yet if I'll sticker bomb them or not. At the least I may play around with mocking it up to see if I like the look or not.

3- tomorrow I'm taking the car in for a tune so they can adjust the FI and timing and get this to run better. It needs it.


Still have some things to fix on it like I'm still leaking some oil from my valve covers, or the hydroboost, but I believe it's my valve cover where I had modified it. either the modification didn't hold, or it never sealed i nthe first place. either way I'll be replacing the valve covers soon with something else that doesn't need modification for clearance. stay tuned on that.

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Car looks great!
What's that stuff on the ceiling of the car.....stick-on?

IMHO - get the axle straightened. It will bite you in the butt later, if you don't.
 

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Working out the bugs nothing new. Your license plate rocks "Make it 3 Yards MF and will have an Automobile Race" iconic TLB scene with Doors Moonlight Drive at the drive-in with lots of muscle and hotrods, Good Livin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #474 ·
How's the new engine doing?
until today I thought it was OK. long story short the front main seal popped out and sprayed oil everywhere. glad I caught it before catastrophically destroying it. I say OK because the tune is still way off. the self tuning hasn't gotten better. it's gotten worse if anything. sputters, pops, backfires, and doesn't really idle. it needs a serious tune, and now a new front main seal. and a thorough cleaning
 

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Discussion Starter · #475 ·
Car looks great!
What's that stuff on the ceiling of the car.....stick-on?

IMHO - get the axle straightened. It will bite you in the butt later, if you don't.
It's an aluminum backed insulation foam the local vendors sell here at Pomona/ Long Beach swap meets. Amazon has a similar product just not as thick. Will see if I can find a sales sheet for you

Noted on the axle.
 

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some updates:

1- got the car aligned on Friday. Turns out my axle is bent so my camber is not the same on both sides, nor is the caster for that matter. the caster is easy enough to fix with more shimming on one side, but the car seems to drive straight enough to not be worth the fuss, and the camber also isn't affecting the drive, but visually it does bug me a little. I understand there's a shop in LB that specializes in bending axles, so I may look into this at some point. it's not an urgent repair. More importantly, my steering arm seems to be holding up so far. I'm still keeping an eye on it, though. Also of note the car is only .02º from being square, so I did a decent job building this. Makes me very happy.

2- got the windows tinted today. It looks so much better now, imo. I had bought a bunch of vintage stickers for the side window, so I'm not sure yet if I'll sticker bomb them or not. At the least I may play around with mocking it up to see if I like the look or not.

3- tomorrow I'm taking the car in for a tune so they can adjust the FI and timing and get this to run better. It needs it.


Still have some things to fix on it like I'm still leaking some oil from my valve covers, or the hydroboost, but I believe it's my valve cover where I had modified it. either the modification didn't hold, or it never sealed i nthe first place. either way I'll be replacing the valve covers soon with something else that doesn't need modification for clearance. stay tuned on that.

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I have a question on window tint... you tinted the back glass yourself. How hard was it. I am wanting to tint mine in blue, where did u buy the tint. It's a great looking car.
 

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what efi system are you using?? and self learning only does some tuning of the air fuel ration, you still manually need to tune the timing curve and acceleration enrichment etc. if you have holley, I may be able to help.
 

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I have a question on window tint... you tinted the back glass yourself. How hard was it. I am wanting to tint mine in blue, where did u buy the tint. It's a great looking car.
I've done several cars, and trucks, and I steer clear of curved glass myself. If I was doing another Tri Five or car with curved rear window I'd not do the back glass myself. Just a nightmare.
Plus if you do just the side glass almost any direction people look at it they'll see colored, unless they're directly behind or directly in front of the car. And when you drive it you'll appreciate not looking at the rear view mirror through colored tint.
This is just the side windows:



I bought mine off Ebay cheap a decade ago. Think it was less than $20 for enough to do two cars on just the sides. They had red, blue, yellow, green.
 

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I've done several cars, and trucks, and I steer clear of curved glass myself. If I was doing another Tri Five or car with curved rear window I'd not do the back glass myself. Just a nightmare.
Plus if you do just the side glass almost any direction people look at it they'll see colored, unless they're directly behind or directly in front of the car. And when you drive it you'll appreciate not looking at the rear view mirror through colored tint.
This is just the side windows:



I bought mine off Ebay cheap a decade ago. Think it was less than $20 for enough to do two cars on just the sides. They had red, blue, yellow, green.
Ya know I never thought of doing just my side glass. But that may just be the ticket. Thanks
 

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Ya know I never thought of doing just my side glass. But that may just be the ticket. Thanks
One thing you'll find with tinted glass is your view of every car gets all wonky. Mine is red, so red cars look pink when they pull up alongside and I look over. Yellow cars look orange, and green cars look brown.
I like seeing forward and back without the tint distorting the colors of cars myself, and it still gives a good effect.
I went with just lightly tinted glass on my last build, as I decided I didn't need a old plexiglass look to the windows.

 
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