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I know this has been discussed on here plenty of times but I have to say that this was the best thing I did to my car! I had the Danchuk traction bars on my car for the last year and it didn't help that my pinion angle was off either. I had new spring perches welded on and the Caltracs installed and it was a night and day difference!!!! I could never fully throttle my car without the rearend banging or wheel hopping, now it takes everything I can throw at it and it just plants the tires down. Anyway I just wanted to say that they are well worth the money.

Oh and by the way I have a 12 bolt rearend in my car, I can already here people on here telling me I am going to break my rearend.
 

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Thats great! But how do you know which helps the wheel hop? Angle or bars?
 

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I can tell you from experience it's definitely the bars. Pinion angle has nothing to do with it.

And, having control of wheel hop, as well as having the pinion angle right, is going to mean less chance of breakage - certainly not more - unless you do more of those "jackrabbit starts".
 

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I know this has been discussed on here plenty of times but I have to say that this was the best thing I did to my car! I had the Danchuk traction bars on my car for the last year and it didn't help that my pinion angle was off either. I had new spring perches welded on and the Caltracs installed and it was a night and day difference!!!! I could never fully throttle my car without the rearend banging or wheel hopping, now it takes everything I can throw at it and it just plants the tires down. Anyway I just wanted to say that they are well worth the money.

Oh and by the way I have a 12 bolt rearend in my car, I can already here people on here telling me I am going to break my rearend.
Not me, when I built my 56 I had the choice of 66 Chevelle 12 bolt or 66 Fairlane 9 inch, I used the 12 bolt. When I built my 55 I had the choice 69 Camaro, 69 Mustang or Dana 60, I used the Dana, keep in mind I had these choices all in hand. I have SSM lift bars on the 56 and it plants the tires hard and the 12 bolt likes it that way.
 

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Use the bottom hole on the instant center adjustment, it will load the suspension slower and take some of the snap out of the drivetrain when you jackrabbit.

Top hole will load it faster and give you more bite,,but at the possible cost of drivetrain parts,,that is if the tires hook up.

I put about 1/4-1/2 turn adjustment on the bars, then locked them down. the more preload, the rougher the ride on the street. If you are taking a long trip,,back them off.

Caltracs are a very good design with HD parts. 1-1/16" locknut on the heim joint/bar end,,that tells you something right there.
 

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The only thing I wish John would have done is to put a hex end on the tube,,on both ends,,instead of just one end. Kinda crazy hanging onto the 1 hex end as you reach down and set the opposite end locknut. Goes against my grain to grab that tube with a pipe wrench, but I have seen folks do that, with a wrap of inner tube, to protect the powdercoat.
 

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1956 chevy 210 del rey sedan
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I have cal tracs on my 68 big block camaro 1.44 60' times and wheelies every pass on a 12 bolt rearend as well . John is a friend of mine and I work with his brother . they are a class act and will go out of their way to help . . best money I ever spent on my car . If my 56 wasn't already tubbed I would use them on it as well .
 
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