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Chevy Engine Build

Engine = 383ci, 4.030 x 3.75

Power = 530 hp @ 5,900

Compression = 10.4:1

Ignition Timing = 37 Degrees

Block = Dart Iron Eagle

Crankshaft = Callies 4340 Steel

Rods = Manley I-Beam, 6.0

Pistons & Rings = JE forged, Federal Mogul 1/16-inch rings

Oil Pan & Pump = Moroso pump and pan.

Camshaft = Crane mechanical roller 240/[email protected], 0.543/0.561, 110 lobe seperation

Rocker Arms = Crane Gold Race 1.5

Heads = Dart Pro 1 CNC 215cc

Valve Sizes = 2.05 / 1.60- inch

Intake Manifold = Edelbrock Super Victor

Carburetor = Mighty Demon 750 cfm

Ignition = MSD-6AL

Headers = 1 3/4 inch Hedman w/2 1/2 - inch exhaust Borla Pro XS
 

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cost

what does it cost to build an engine like that. id like to stay with a small block. can you run it on 93 octane?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I got those specs out of chevy magazine, and since it is 10.4 compression I would say you could run on 93 octane.

But you never know what octane you are actually getting these days I bet we often get less than we pay for.


As far as parts price I would look them up at summit racing

Otis
 

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Tips when you build an engine

Chevy Engine Build

Engine = 383ci, 4.030 x 3.75

Power = 530 hp @ 5,900

Compression = 10.4:1

Ignition Timing = 37 Degrees

Block = Dart Iron Eagle

Crankshaft = Callies 4340 Steel

Rods = Manley I-Beam, 6.0

Pistons & Rings = JE forged, Federal Mogul 1/16-inch rings

Oil Pan & Pump = Moroso pump and pan.

Camshaft = Crane mechanical roller 240/[email protected], 0.543/0.561, 110 lobe seperation

Rocker Arms = Crane Gold Race 1.5

Heads = Dart Pro 1 CNC 215cc

Valve Sizes = 2.05 / 1.60- inch

Intake Manifold = Edelbrock Super Victor

Carburetor = Mighty Demon 750 cfm

Ignition = MSD-6AL

Headers = 1 3/4 inch Hedman w/2 1/2 - inch exhaust Borla Pro XS
When you are putting a motor together with with this much power, do you have any tips , tricks, or special products you use , so as not to have oil leakage from the areas where gaskets are used ?
Thanks
andy
 

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Hey andy - I am originally from San Diego and worked 15 years as an engine builder and tuner and still have quite a few of my builds stomping the streets around them parts!

I am not sure what you are asking as HP and gasketing aren't really related (fuel type can effect dillution - are you running ALKY?). Vapor seepage is expected around the valve covers (with mileage) - but drips are not acceptable!

For most regular builds we always used EngineTech rebuilder sets - for premium builds (under 12:1 compression) I like using the FelPro Blue set and add the steel reinforced rubber valve cover gaskets - NO SEALANTS. this is a rubber ridged gasket that works really well - you will get some vapor seepage from them though. If ya don't like wiping the edges with each oil check you can use the cork grommeted with good results - depending on the valve cover you use. the stamped steel (the thicker the better) valve covers will work if you use the long tabs on the bolts (and studs work a ton better than bolts)- but I really prefer the cast covers. Tack the cork at the corners and midlle of the cover with some permatex non hardening - do not go all the way around and ONLY apply sealant on the cover side of the gasket - you want the gasket to expand slightly when the oil hits it and it won't expand otherwise!

On the intake ends - run a bead of silcone (rtv) along the block rail and let it skin for about 20 minutes before setting the manifold

On the timing cover tack the gasket to the cover with permatex non hardening - again cover side only. Put a small dollop of RTV at the corners between the TC and oil pan - and again let the rtv skin before you set the pan. I like the grommeted pan gasket - but the cork works well if you are careful in the placement.

And in all cases - the torque wrench is your gaskets best friend! On the valve cover when the engine is installed it's not alway practical (like after setting lash etc) so use a nut driver and just snug - as you see leaks tighten just a little more each inspect until no longer leaking. Once you over tighten and damage the gasket - there is no fix short of replacment (that I find acceptable).

On the cost question - I have 5500 in the 415 horse 383 in my 86 C10. Using the one piece rear block and stock iron heads well ported. Of course I flew back to san Diego and did a lot of the machining and fitting work myself (my old boss/friend worked with me and allowed me to use his shop - I was his general manager for 6 years so it's like my shop too!).
 

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1. - BRAND NEW BIG M DART BLOCK STROKED TO 572 CUBIC INCHES
2. - Heads - CNC PORTED ALUMINUM RACING HEADS – MASSIVE 360cc INTAKE RUNNERS – MASSIVE 2.30”/1.90” Valves) WHICH BENCH FLOW AT A MASSIVE 394 CFM AT .600 LIFT! (Fully CNC Ported and Polished (CNC - Computer Numeric Control Porting) with significant custom under the bowl work to push air flow to a staggering 394 CFM at .600 lift)
3. - (CNC Porting is what separates the Men from the Boys! This is true CNC porting and not your standard porting and 3 angle valve job!)
4. - Intake Manifold - (EDELBROCK VICTOR JR.)
5. - Carburetor - CUSTOM JETTED 950 CFM Demon DOUBLE PUMPER
6. - Distributor - MSD 6A HEI
7. - Valve Covers - (Chrome Valve Covers with Apple candy Powder coat)
8. - Air Cleaner - (Barry Grant Flying Wedge (Black wrinkle)
9. - Water Pump - (Chrome Electric –SHORT WATER PUMP)
10. - Fuel Pump - Barry Grant 400 Electric Fuel Pump
11. - Fuel Regulator - Barry Grant Four Port Fuel regulator
12. - Fuel Filter - Barry grant 5000 Fuel Filter
13. - Harmonic Balancer - PROCOMP 1045 STEEL DAMPNER
14. - Flexplate - SFI PRECISION
15. - Pulleys - TRUE BILLET DUAL GROOVE UPPER & LOWER
16. - Gaskets - FEL-PRO
17. - Oil Dipstick & Tube - Lokar
18. - Timing Cover - BOWTIE GM PERFORMANCE PARTS TIMING COVER
19. - Timing Pointer - CHROME TIMING POINTER
20. - Wires - (BLACK)
21. - Looms - (BLACK)
22. - Spark Plugs - NGK PERFORMANCE
23. - Crankshaft - 4340 FORGED 4.375” STROKE CRANKSHAFT
24. - Forged Pistons - CUSTOM MADE ARIAS FORGED PISTONS
25. - Forged Rods - 4340 FORGED 6.535” H BEAM
26. - Rod Bolts - ARP 8740
27. - Roller Camshaft - COMP CAMS (Custom Grind) (Custom ground)
28. - Valve Springs - COMP CAMS DUAL ROLLER WITH 10 DEGREE LOCK & RETAINERS
29. - Roller Lifters - COMP CAMS (ROLLER HYDRAULIC)
30. - Rockers - STAINLESS ROLLER PRECISION - 1.6 RATIO AND FULL RACING STUD GIRDLE
31. - Rings - SPEED PRO (File fit Ductile Moly Rings)
32. - Bearings - KING ALLECULAR PRO SERIES
33. - Double Roller Timing Set - BILLET TIMING CHAIN SET
34. - Gaskets - FEL PRO
35. - Oil Pump - MELLING
36. - Oil Pump Driveshaft - MELLING
37. - Oil Pump Pickup Screen - MELLING
38. - Seats - HARDENED SEATS
39. - Brass Freeze Plugs - PIONEER
40. - Pushrods - CHROME MOLY CUSTOM LENGTH .080 WALL
41. - Head Bolts - HP PRECISION
42. - Oil Pan - (CHROME Moroso)
43. - Color of Block - (Candy Apple )
44. - Control Freak –Front Suspension W/Mustang II Rack & pinion Steering
45. - Radiator - Keith Roberts Custom Polished Radiator capable
Of cooling engines up to 750 HP
46. - Four Link - Art Morrison Four Link rear Suspension
47. - Rear End - Ford 9” narrowed Rear End
48. - Rear Gears - Strange Third Member 4.11 Gear Ratio
49. - Axle - Strange Axles 31 Spling
50. - Transmission - MadDog Lou, Level 4, 4L80 4 Sp. Auto Transmission 31 Spline
 

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To actually save cost on engine build is
1 all parts whole sale
2 machine work free
3 no labor cost

I built a 496 awhile back and hav a little under $5, grand in it, And I was lucky to hav all of the above .
I even got a break<$$> on dyno.So lucked out there. So I got a tad under $5 grand in parts, that includes new clutch set up too.
Im kinda like jwmbishop, had access to machine shop at night. In parts I hav tax Id number also.
 

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Chevy Engine Build

Engine = 383ci, 4.030 x 3.75

Power = 530 hp @ 5,900

Compression = 10.4:1

Ignition Timing = 37 Degrees

Block = Dart Iron Eagle

Crankshaft = Callies 4340 Steel

Rods = Manley I-Beam, 6.0

Pistons & Rings = JE forged, Federal Mogul 1/16-inch rings

Oil Pan & Pump = Moroso pump and pan.

Camshaft = Crane mechanical roller 240/[email protected], 0.543/0.561, 110 lobe seperation

Rocker Arms = Crane Gold Race 1.5

Heads = Dart Pro 1 CNC 215cc

Valve Sizes = 2.05 / 1.60- inch

Intake Manifold = Edelbrock Super Victor

Carburetor = Mighty Demon 750 cfm

Ignition = MSD-6AL

Headers = 1 3/4 inch Hedman w/2 1/2 - inch exhaust Borla Pro XS
Why would any one building a 383 use a Iron Eagle block with a raised cam tunnel and spread pan rails as that kind of a waste of money. Those pans are not cheap and timing set ups.

The cam tunnel in the Iron Eagle blocks are BBC and those cams are not cheap

You have to run and external oil filter as the block provides for an oil fitler.

The Iron Eagle blocks provide no oil returns and return holes have to be machined into the lifter galley

Its a lot of over kill and a lot of wasted money thats for sure those blocks are not cheap compared to the SHP block. they are about 1500.00 more money
 

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I did a build almost like that with a stock block.
Only difference was I used Dart Pro1 200cc heads and Eagle crank.

4k build about 6 years ago.

It is easy to get 500hp+ from a 383.

If I were going for more HP with power adders I would use a stronger block.

Don
 

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383

I'd buy a complete motor from Skip White. They have a ton of combinations, you can get a 427-434 small block for a little over $7 grand. Or you can get all the parts and put it together yourself cheaper. Check em out.
Terry
 

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I'd buy a complete motor from Skip White. They have a ton of combinations, you can get a 427-434 small block for a little over $7 grand. Or you can get all the parts and put it together yourself cheaper. Check em out.
Terry
They use a lot of cheap Chinese parts in their engines! Chinese heads ETC.
 

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The ZZ383 is now up to [email protected]/450lb/ft [email protected] for 2014 with the reworked Fastburn heads and LS3 Beehive springs they now use. With zero exotica.

p/n 19301295 $6400 from Summit.

Not bad for the majority of guys who dont have access to machine shops and other "advantages".

peace
Hog
 

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Either a 1-piece or 2-piece rear main seal small block engine will fit just fine even if using original '55 - '57 V-8 engine mount brackets up front and '55 - '57 V-8 bellhousing with side bellhousing mounts and original 3-bolt bellhousing mounted starter.

You just have to use the correct 168 tooth flywheel and oil pan for either the 1-piece or 2-piece rear main seal engine you choose.

Move original front engine mount stands and rubber engine mount cushions from 6-cylinder position back to V-8 position on front crossmember. And replace 6-cylinder throttle linkage with V-8 linkage.

Your original 6-cylinder 3-speed transmission will bolt up to the V-8 bellhousing along with your clutch linkage and clutch release fork.

If you want the installation to look like an original V-8 car, you can change over to a V-8 radiator and V-8 radiator core support that mounts V-8 radiator behind core support and use short water pump and pulleys. And add the appropriate V-8 body trim pieces.

Or, you can retain (rod out or recore if needed) your original 6-cylinder radiator and core support and use longer radiator hoses and use either a short or long water pump and matching pulleys with a fan spacer to locate your fan about 3/4" behind 6-cylinder radiator core. V-8 body trim pieces optional.

Hope this helps,

Harry
 
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