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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey all,

Anyone have any comments/experience with the 2" lowering rear leaf springs that Classic Chevy offers that have the pin offset 3/4" to the rear to allow extra tire clearance? Getting ready to order springs and would like to get feedback before I pull the trigger!

Also interested in any and all comments, photos, advice on lowering a '57 convertible. I've read through a bunch of the posts on lowering in general, but I'm concerned that the added weight of the convert might pose an issue with the final result. I was heading toward Classic Chevy 2" lowering coils and 2" lowering rear 5-leafs. Will be running a pretty tall tire, say 28" rear, 26-27" front. I really like a modest drop, but don't want to make a mistake that sits too low. FYI, for weight assessment, I'm going to run a Ramjet 350 which is all cast iron and a 700R4 tranny.

Thanks!
 

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Hey all,

Anyone have any comments/experience with the 2" lowering rear leaf springs that Classic Chevy offers that have the pin offset 3/4" to the rear to allow extra tire clearance? Getting ready to order springs and would like to get feedback before I pull the trigger!

Also interested in any and all comments, photos, advice on lowering a '57 convertible. I've read through a bunch of the posts on lowering in general, but I'm concerned that the added weight of the convert might pose an issue with the final result. I was heading toward Classic Chevy 2" lowering coils and 2" lowering rear 5-leafs. Will be running a pretty tall tire, say 28" rear, 26-27" front. I really like a modest drop, but don't want to make a mistake that sits too low. FYI, for weight assessment, I'm going to run a Ramjet 350 which is all cast iron and a 700R4 tranny.

Thanks!
Driveshaft and front yoke length?
 

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Also, moving back on the spring will change the pinion angle....
 

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Hmmmmmm, le's see.

Why does setting the axle 3/4" to the rear let you run a bigger tire? I guess I don't understand the issue.

Classic Chevys said:
1955-57 cars, there is plenty of room to move the wheel rearward some so that it is not crowding the front of the wheel well. Positioning the wheel and tire toward the rear will give the car a longer, more pleasing look.
Now what a load of garbage that statement is. Just another way to have your money in their pocket.​
 

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Once you get past 29" or 29-1/2" of tire diameter, on a 55 there may be interference between the tire diameter with the wheel cutout where it meets the rocker. So moving the axle back will help avoid this. I think this problem is less likely on a 56-57, but not by much. This would especially be true if the tire to fender clearance is small.

Likewise the tire may hit the wheel tub if it's much over 30" diameter, especially if it's a race slick that grows at speed.

The other thing that happens is that the wheel/tire is "set back" in the wheel cutout/fender. To me this would be an appearance issue that I would not want to have.

On a higher end race car, this would not be a problem, since it would have bigger tires yet, requiring fabricated wheel tubs and a narrowed axle.

And it's not a problem with typical street tire diameters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah, as I read the feedback and think about it I think I'm leaning away from the offset pin springs for my car. I can see how they might have an application on some though. I'm going to re-post the second half of my question under a different heading because I think it got buried in this string. Thanks for the comments!
 

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Once you get past 29" or 29-1/2" of tire diameter, on a 55 there may be interference between the tire diameter with the wheel cutout where it meets the rocker. So moving the axle back will help avoid this. I think this problem is less likely on a 56-57, but not by much. This would especially be true if the tire to fender clearance is small.
That's interesting, since the tubs for all 3 years are the same. The stock 56 tire is over 28" and I thought there was more clearance than that. :confused0006:

The other thing that happens is that the wheel/tire is "set back" in the wheel cutout/fender. To me this would be an appearance issue that I would not want to have.
I was wondering if this was desirable from an aesthetics point of view, as I could do it with my C4 conversions if someone wanted it. It seems that most street tires are less than 28" in diameter though.
 

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relocating pin

From what I remember 10-15 years ago Hot Rod editor moved the locating pin on the leaf springs in a big inch red 57 hardtop for Power Tour rearward 1" as they stated " to better center the wheels in the opening":D

P.S. They were running large diameter tires and I think they bumped a bit in the front of the wheelwell. and the car looked good with them moved.
 

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I ALWAYS HAVE LOOKED AT THE REARS ON 56+57 AND IT ALWAYS LOOKS LIKE THE TIRES ARE NOT CENTERED IN THE WHEEL WELL AND THATS WHAT THERE SAYING ITS CLOSER TO THE FRONT OF THE OPENING AND I THOUGHT IF I WAS DOING THE MINI TUB AND THE SPRING POCKET KIT THAT MAYBE I RUN THESE SPRINGS SINCE HAVE TO PUT THE SPRING PERCHS ON THE REAR SO SETTING THE PINYON ANGEL IS NO BIG DEAL AND CENTERS TIRE IN WHEEL HOUSE WHAT DO YA THINK?
 

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"since the tubs for all 3 years are the same."

They are as far as I know. The problem I was describing in the first part of my post was clearance to the body, not the tub.

I had some 9" x 29-1/2" slicks on a 55 that almost hit there - plenty of clearance to the tub. Stock axle width and minimal but adequate clearance at the center of the wheel cutout. With more clearance at the center of the wheel cutout, the problem at the front goes away too.
 
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