[digicon]

Guys, I am building a 57 from the frame up. I need to rebuild the front end with a suspension kit (bushings, balljoints, tie rod ends etc.). I also want to add 2" drop spindles and a disk brake conversion kit. This is where it gets a little overwhelming.

I have read several posts over the last few evenings and I don't think I know anymore than I did when I started. It seems many people are having to grind for clearance issues among other things. I began searching McGaughy's spindles and right off the bat I noticed Summit wants $289.95 for them and GodFather Customs wants $235.26 for them. Really........$50 difference. Am I missing something.

So not only do I not know what brand to get, I don't even know who has the best prices. That's where you guys come in.

Would you guys be willing to give me your honest opinion on the most compatable, best priced (cheapest) set of spindles,disk brake conversion and suspensions kits and where to purchase them. I appreciate any input I could get.

I am building a 57 2dr HT. Right now I have a powdercoated frame on jack stands....that's it.

Thanks in advance,
Mike

 

[TOMMY454]

Check out the kits available from CPP http://www.classicperform.com/fullsize.htm

 

[Triple Deuces]

Check out the kits available from CPP http://www.classicperform.com/fullsize.htm

I agree - CPP was the ticket for me. I used this kit
part number 5557SWBK-D12-UG.
12.2 inch disc, big bore caliper, caliper brackets are cast-in as are the steering arms. Stops strong with a light brake pedal. I used their 8 inch dual booster with master cylinder and prop valve kit.
I was able to score a good price by watching their Ebay store. Yes, just like most other kits, you need to grind down the steering bump stops on the spindle to restore your original tight turning radius - easy to do quickly with any bench grinder. A wheel with 4.5 inch backspace will eliminate or minimize any oustide fender rubbing at full lock.

Don

 

[digicon]

Thanks guys for the input. So you actually gring down a bump on the spindle itself. (not actually on the spindle but the spindle assembly). I had it in my head the grinding was done on the A arms? That's not so bad, I didn't want to take a grinder to my original 57 front end pieces if I could keep from it.

Is CPP kits one of the most reasonably priced?

I thought about just leaving manual brakes on it. Is this a no-no or does it actually prevent more problems?

Keep the info coming guys, I sure appreciate it.

Mike

 

[Pops @ Tri-5.com]

Mike.....Brake drums and shoes are not compatible with dropped spindles.....You have to go to disc brakes.

 

[Peepaw]

Mike.....Brake drums and shoes are not compatible with dropped spindles.....You have to go to disc brakes.

Not to mention, unless the car is a numbers matching resto (and with powdercoated frame and drop sindles, safe to assume he ain't going that route), no real reason to put manual/drum on...well, unless he just doesnt' plan on driving it.

 

[digicon]

No, I understand that with the drop spindles, disk brakes are required. What I meant to say was....is it ok to leave the mastercyilinder manual or is it a good idea to also upgrade it to power (vacuum)?

And no it is not going to be a numbers matching restore. Although I have all the numbers matching original pieces (283 ,2 speed, rear end). I am going to build the car how I want it, but would like to keep it to where it could be put back original if someone else ever desired to. That's the only reason I was hesitant to start grinding on front end pieces.

Is anyone familiar with this set? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/55-5...t|Model:Bel+Air|Year:1957&hash=item1c1652eb9f

Thanks, Mike

 

[Peepaw]

No, I understand that with the drop spindles, disk brakes are required. What I meant to say was....is it ok to leave the mastercyilinder manual or is it a good idea to also upgrade it to power (vacuum)?

And no it is not going to be a numbers matching restore. Although I have all the numbers matching original pieces (283 ,2 speed, rear end). I am going to build the car how I want it, but would like to keep it to where it could be put back original if someone else ever desired to. That's the only reason I was hesitant to start grinding on front end pieces.

Is anyone familiar with this set? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/55-5...t|Model:Bel+Air|Year:1957&hash=item1c1652eb9f

Thanks, Mike

If it is the stock manual MC, then not gonna work with disc brakes, no.

 

[Rick_L]

"So you actually gring down a bump on the spindle itself."

To get more steering travel with the McGaughy type spindle, you grind down the stop on the stock steering arm. You may also have to grind on the lower control arm. And you will probably have to remove some material on the spindle at the spotface where the steering arm sits.

This is a lot easier to explain and understand if you have these parts on hand.

You don't need a power booster to use the disc brakes. A correctly sized dual master cylinder is a very good idea, it's a safety upgrade, and it's really inexpensive to do.

 

[digicon]

Thanks Rick L and everyone else for the input.

Mike

 

[Peepaw]

Right, you can use a manual master cylinder with disc brakes...but the single reservoir manual MC will not work. Just to clarify.

 

[CJS57]

Hmmmm........I am using the original single pot 1" manual MC on my front disc and rear drum 57 right now. Stops really well with a hard nose dive, even from highway speeds. I did remove the residual valve from it, otherwise the front discs will stay on all the time. And yes, I do know a dual pot MC is safer.

 

[Peepaw]

Hmmmm........I am using the original single pot 1" manual MC on my front disc and rear drum 57 right now. Stops really well with a hard nose dive, even from highway speeds. I did remove the residual valve from it, otherwise the front discs will stay on all the time. And yes, I do know a dual pot MC is safer.

Well, I guess there is a first for everything. Never heard of it working before, and maybe your idea of stopping good (or safely)is different from others, I don't know. But if you are doing it, and works for you, well, guess you can't argue with that.

I just know what I have been taught/educated/shown over last 25+ years, says you shouldnt/cant do it.

 

[Pops @ Tri-5.com]

Well, I guess there is a first for everything. Never heard of it working before, and maybe your idea of stopping good (or safely)is different from others, I don't know. But if you are doing it, and works for you, well, guess you can't argue with that.....I just know what I have been taught/educated/shown over last 25+ years, says you shouldnt/cant do it.

I believe 57Viper has an article in his library on how to use the original M/C with front disc brakes....See link:http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20204

 

[737Pilot]

Hmmmm........I am using the original single pot 1" manual MC on my front disc and rear drum 57 right now. Stops really well with a hard nose dive, even from highway speeds. I did remove the residual valve from it, otherwise the front discs will stay on all the time. And yes, I do know a dual pot MC is safer.

Mine was like this as well for many many years while my uncle drove it. Disc front, drum rear. It didn't last but a few months once I got the car and the MC went out...On the way home from a car show! I went with a dual MC and it brakes like night and day from before. Just my 1 cent.

 

[Rick_L]

The stock master cylinder works just fine with disc brakes. Performance is exactly the same as with a dual master cylinder as long as it's working correctly.

The trouble with it is if it fails, you have no brakes at all. With the dual master cylinder you have half your brakes.

 

[oceangoer]

Mike,

Try Dutchman Axles in Portland Oregon. They manufacture the Rack and
Pinion kit and can provide you with, Heidts Products [spindles and sway bars, control arm, Air ride, 9 inch parts, and .........

I purchased all of my front and rear end suspention parts.

Oh, The Wilwood 4 piston brake kits as well. They handle Top quality,
and every single part was the corect part and no problems after
three + years.

Good Luck,

Michael.

 

[gregpharr]

This is one of those things that can be overwhelming. Be aware that some kits will move your wheels out, That may not be a problem for you, but some kits will move each side out up to one inch.

 

[Peepaw]

Well, I stand corrected. I guess if you don't learn something everyday, you are not trying. :tu
Thanks guys (that being said, from what I read above, I STILL wouldn't use the single res. with disc brakes, I just now know that you CAN do it, just isn't safest route to take)

 

[56owner]

GRINDING?

"So you actually gring down a bump on the spindle itself."

To get more steering travel with the McGaughy type spindle, you grind down the stop on the stock steering arm. You may also have to grind on the lower control arm. And you will probably have to remove some material on the spindle at the spotface where the steering arm sits.

This is a lot easier to explain and understand if you have these parts on hand.

You don't need a power booster to use the disc brakes. A correctly sized dual master cylinder is a very good idea, it's a safety upgrade, and it's really inexpensive to do.

YOU WIL PROBABLY HAVE TO GRIND THE OUTER RADIUS OF YOU STOCK A-ARMS . MAKE SURE TO HAVE YOUR NEW BALL JOINTS INSTALLED BEFORE YOU START GRINDING AS PART OF THE BALL JOINT ALSO NEED TO BE GROUND. YOU CAN DO SOME OF THE GRIND BEFORE ASSEMBLY BY PUTTING THE SPINDLE (WITH STEERING ARM ATTACHED ) ON THE A-ARM WITH IT ON THE WORK BENCH AND TURNING THE SPINDLE FRONT TO BACK. AFTER YOU GET IT TO TURN PROPERLY. NEXT PUT 1/4 TO 5/16" ALIGNMENT SHIMS AND INSTALL THE UPPER ARMS. THEN INSTALL LOWER A-ARMS WITHOUT THE SPRINGS AND AGAIN CHECK FOR CLEARANCE AND TURNING ABILITY. THEN DISASSEMBLE AND PAINT OR TOUCH UP ANYTHING NEEDED.