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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm just trying to tidy up the engine compartment on the Pontiac, and have spent the last few months on the wiring. The previous owner was not very tidy and did a lot of things that I am now having to rectify, such as this hose that has been cut off and fitted with a bolt.



Could someone please identify the hose on my 5.3l Vortec engine, and hopefully suggest a better way to blank it off?

Many thanks in anticipation.
 

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that is the coolant steam bypass hose. it should be connected to the inlet side of the radiator or drill and tap hole in the outlet side of the water pump, then put in a npt to hose barb fitting. and plumb it to that.
 

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Partly correct that is the steam line throttle body heater line. Pictured is he outlet the drivers side is the inlet. It can be bypassed and left open its not needed. The inlet comes firm the tube that goes to the port on drivers side front of head. The needs to go to rad top side or the top of water pump or you can tee it into the upper rad hose with a fitting.


Also pictured is what looks like an egr tube. You will want to delete it too its the large line going into the intake. The delete plugs are nit being mad any more you can plug it with a freeze plug as well. Then remove the valve and plug exaust with a plate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Partly correct that is the steam line throttle body heater line. Pictured is he outlet the drivers side is the inlet. It can be bypassed and left open its not needed. The inlet comes firm the tube that goes to the port on drivers side front of head. The needs to go to rad top side or the top of water pump or you can tee it into the upper rad hose with a fitting.
Seeing that this hose has been blocked off for some time, do you think there is still the need to divert the tube from the driver's side to the radiator, or if I dont what is likely to occur?

Also pictured is what looks like an egr tube. You will want to delete it too its the large line going into the intake. The delete plugs are nit being mad any more you can plug it with a freeze plug as well. Then remove the valve and plug exaust with a plate.
I have read a bit about removal of this EGR stuff, and it seems that I might need to get the car retuned (which I had done a few months ago, with very good results). Is this correct in your opinion please? I have marked what I think is the EGR stuff on the picture below with an orange box.

On the image of the engine the yellow oval shows something that has also been disconnected, but I don't know what it is. I would also like to remove this and plug the hole somehow.

Scott, any suggestions on this would be appreciated?

 

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Seeing that this hose has been blocked off for some time, do you think there is still the need to divert the tube from the driver's side to the radiator, or if I dont what is likely to occur?
Post a picture of the drivers side of the steam port right were the TB is, toward the head.

I have read a bit about removal of this EGR stuff, and it seems that I might need to get the car retuned (which I had done a few months ago, with very good results). Is this correct in your opinion please? I have marked what I think is the EGR stuff on the picture below with an orange box.

On the image of the engine the yellow oval shows something that has also been disconnected, but I don't know what it is. I would also like to remove this and plug the hole somehow.

Scott, any suggestions on this would be appreciated?
Based off the picture look like the EGR hooked up. (orange circle is the EGR valve.) Disconnect the plug and drive it. If you get a check engine light then its still in the tune. If not then its been deleted. And you can remove it totally. Its not hurting anything being hooked up. But it look horrible.


The yellow is the canister purge valve. This takes EVAP fumes from the gas tanks and burns them. If its disconnected simply remove it and plug with vacuum plug. Its under vacuum and shouldn't go anywhere. I have JB welded then as well.


Now I know I have discussed ID'ing this motor before but those are a little odd. The cover is an SSR. The cable throttle body and EGR mean its a 2002 and earlier unit or been fitted with those parts. The SSR never had DBC or EGR. But it did use the 5.3L 2003-04
 

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On the image of the engine the yellow oval shows something that has also been disconnected, but I don't know what it is. I would also like to remove this and plug the hole somehow.
As Bo185 pointed out, it's the EVAP purge solenoid. When you remove it, the hole can be tapped and then plugged. I think it is a 1/4 NPT pipe tap that fits the existing hole, but it has been a while since I've done that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Post a picture of the drivers side of the steam port right were the TB is, toward the head.



The first image is where the pipe comes out of the head, and the second is where it goes into the throttle body.

Now I know I have discussed ID'ing this motor before but those are a little odd. The cover is an SSR. The cable throttle body and EGR mean its a 2002 and earlier unit or been fitted with those parts. The SSR never had DBC or EGR. But it did use the 5.3L 2003-04
When I had the engine tuned the guy said that the tuner showed that it was from a 2003 Chev 1500 (I think), so the SSR cover is a red herring. As we discussed way back the previous owner (who was only guessing so I surmise) said the motor was a 5.7 from an SSR (which didn't even have 5.7), but as we both know this isn't the case as it turned out to be an iron block 5.3l.
 

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The first image is where the pipe comes out of the head, and the second is where it goes into the throttle body.
The pipe from head needs to go to rad toward the top. You can bypass TB as it just used to prevent TB ice in very cold climates.

Now since there most likey isn't a fitting on the rad. I would get a upper hose tee. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_Cooling_LSI-tee.html

You can use it to bleed air as well.




When I had the engine tuned the guy said that the tuner showed that it was from a 2003 Chev 1500 (I think), so the SSR cover is a red herring. As we discussed way back the previous owner (who was only guessing so I surmise) said the motor was a 5.7 from an SSR (which didn't even have 5.7), but as we both know this isn't the case as it turned out to be an iron block 5.3l.
No biggie. Plug EVAP valve at top of intake then disengage EGR electrics plug check for code. I bet its tuned out if so remove it plug holes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks very much Scott and the other guys that replied to my query. It is great to get this valuable information from such knowledgeable enthusiasts.

The removal of all this stuff will surely keep me occupied for quite some time. Don't you just love tinkering with these old cars!
 

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I just noticed in the last picture above, the one were it goes in to the TB. If you look at the hard steam lines one appears to go under the intake. This is an indication that is a very early 5.3L 99-00 most likely. The early gm truck motors had the coolant lines going to the back like the car motors. Later they deleted the rear ones and just used plugs. And only had the front lines between to the two heads.

That's the bad thing about these motors, is people lie about what they are and try to pass them off as something else to make more money!
 
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