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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all. I am having issues with my digital dash not reading any of the setup sender types for my fuel reading gauge in the cluster. I can't remember what brand sender i have in the tank, so I don't know what setting to set the cluster too, although none of the options given work anyways. I know it's a one wire sender that works off of the ground side of the electrical system. Also having issues with not knowing exactly what speedo cable I have in this car. It's a '56 Bel-air but it has a Ford 4 speed 10 bolt toploader trans in it and I am not sure what adapter to buy to work with the cluster correctly. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated if any has run into these issues before.
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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Hi all. I am having issues with my digital dash not reading any of the setup sender types for my fuel reading gauge in the cluster. I can't remember what brand sender i have in the tank, so I don't know what setting to set the cluster too, although none of the options given work anyways. I know it's a one wire sender that works off of the ground side of the electrical system.
:sign0016: to bowtie-trifive!!!
Is the fuel tank a stock type fuel tank. The sender for the stock tank is zero ohms empty and 30 ohms full (GM30).
 

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I'm still in the process of setting up my DD dash, so can't speak from experience of having set up/calibrated the gauge readings yet, but ---

my set of directions (for a '57 3100) are pretty adamant that you run both a 'send' wire and a ground wire from your control panel to the sending unit. The option is to insure that you've got excellent grounding of the sending unit to the frame, and ultimately back to the control panel. I just ran both sending and ground wires, to be safe. As I said tho, I haven't put power to it yet...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
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I've contacted customer support and I seem to just be getting the run around.

As for what the gauge reads, it will count from zero, jump about 15 percent every second until it reaches 99 and then shows "--" no matter what sender I program it to.

I purchased the sending unit from bob's classic chevy but the website doesn't specify brand name.

The install instructions don't mention anything about it having to have a two wire setup, Supposedly it should just work off of the one wire system.
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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As for what the gauge reads, it will count from zero, jump about 15 percent every second until it reaches 99 and then shows "--" no matter what sender I program it to.
A "--" error code is either a bad ground or a bad connection in the wire between the dash and sender. Try grounding the terminal on the sender to a good body ground (clean metal), and see if it reads empty with GM30 programed. If so, the tank has a bad ground. If it still fails, there is a bad connection between the tank and gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Duh. What a no brainer. I don't know why I didn't think of that. Ok, now that I got my head out of my butt maybe I can figure this out.
I set it to gm30 and grounded the circuit, Now the gauge reads 00, which indicates to me that the sender isn't working anymore cause I know that the tank isn't empty.
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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I set it to gm30 and grounded the circuit, Now the gauge reads 00, which indicates to me that the sender isn't working anymore cause I know that the tank isn't empty.
NO, when you ground the circuit, it indicates that the wire from the sender to the dash is good and that the tank is not grounded. Put the ground on the sender mounting plate or under one of the mounting screws, so you have a good ground from the sender to the body.
 

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NO, when you ground the circuit, it indicates that the wire from the sender to the dash is good and that the tank is not grounded. Put the ground on the sender mounting plate or under one of the mounting screws, so you have a good ground from the sender to the body.
^^^^ This....

You need to know what sender type you have though. Is 30 ohms make it full indicating or empty. If you are still having problems, check your sending unit. I went thru two of them before it indicated correctly.
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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I still say you need to check the float. That is where i am betting the problem is.
Terry
Terry, a sunk float won't give a "--" error code, which was the indication before jumpering the sender wire to ground. A sunk float will give a zero ohm reading, which is the same reading as an empty tank. A "--" is a "out of range" error, so if the sender is not grounded, it will give a infinity reading, which will be out of range for any sender programed into the gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Grounding the tank seem to fix my problem. I appreciate everyone's help. Does anyone have any suggestions about my speedo cable issue?
 

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R.I.P. 2-2012
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Grounding the tank seem to fix my problem. I appreciate everyone's help. Does anyone have any suggestions about my speedo cable issue?
Don't recall seeing anything about your speedo cable, but DD does say (in my manual, anyway) that using their sender and wiring is required.

So what's goin' on with yours?
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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Hi all. I am having issues with my digital dash not reading any of the setup sender types for my fuel reading gauge in the cluster. I can't remember what brand sender i have in the tank, so I don't know what setting to set the cluster too, although none of the options given work anyways. I know it's a one wire sender that works off of the ground side of the electrical system. Also having issues with not knowing exactly what speedo cable I have in this car. It's a '56 Bel-air but it has a Ford 4 speed 10 bolt toploader trans in it and I am not sure what adapter to buy to work with the cluster correctly. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated if any has run into these issues before.
You might call Summit about their speed senders. ..... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SWW-82623B/Application/?prefilter=1 I don't see anything about what transmission it's for, but they have adapters for Ford to Gm speedometer cables also. ....http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DAK-130009/
 

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Tank

BTW I know you have now solved this but the grounding instruction is on the gold instruction sheet. I hope you ran the extra ground straight to the VFD control box to the port "Fuel-(last on left side of box). I'm thinking I'd change it if you didn't. Do F*&^s use a different cable end than Chevy? Or will Dakota sender screw on to trans. You use the two small button switches to set calibration for speedo and odometer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
BTW I know you have now solved this but the grounding instruction is on the gold instruction sheet. I hope you ran the extra ground straight to the VFD control box to the port "Fuel-(last on left side of box). I'm thinking I'd change it if you didn't. Do F*&^s use a different cable end than Chevy? Or will Dakota sender screw on to trans. You use the two small button switches to set calibration for speedo and odometer.
I'm not sure what you mean 56owner about extra ground. Cause all my gold sheet shows is the one sender wire going straight to the "fuel" port on the control module and the module being grounded to the chassis with the negative side of the speedo sensor connected to the same ground port.
 

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Ground

My instruction sheet shows there are two wires running from the fuel sender to the control module. One runs from the center post of fuel sender to the second post from left on module. Second (Ground) wire goes from one of the 5 mount screws on the tank sender to the first port on left. Module also has a ground wire on last port on right. Digital circuts are very sensitive to grounds so the sender and control module must have the same ground level to operate correctly. A difference of a little as .1 volt can make a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
My instruction sheet shows there are two wires running from the fuel sender to the control module. One runs from the center post of fuel sender to the second post from left on module. Second (Ground) wire goes from one of the 5 mount screws on the tank sender to the first port on left. Module also has a ground wire on last port on right. Digital circuts are very sensitive to grounds so the sender and control module must have the same ground level to operate correctly. A difference of a little as .1 volt can make a difference.
Is it possible for you to either scan the document or take a pic of it and post it to this message board? I actually have an older model which has a aluminum case and all the inputs on one side of the box and a ribbon cable that connects it to the back of the cluster. I think you might be talking about the new version which has a black plastic box with inputs on both sides.

http://www.dakotadigital.com/cartimages/prd_lp_1085.jpg
 
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