hi josh. i would take it too a local shop. let them fix it so you can enjoy it. :anim_25:
Disappointing short road trip
Got my 57 out to drive to a family reunion. Still not starting right, runs like crap. Sometimes you can put your foot in it and sometimes it will almost choke to death when you barely touch the gas. It sometimes idles good and the rest it will barely stay running. Once I get it started I can adjust the distributor to get a smooth idle. If I shut it down and restart it acts like the timing is way off against the starter. If it does start back up the idle is totally different than the way I set it. If I throttle it, it will almost die and wants to cut out and when I get it to start to rev it takes forever for the rpms to come back down. I can adjust it back to were the throttle is responsive but once again I have a terrible idle with an up/down rpm.
It starting to get on my nerves. I'm thinking about taking it to a local auto computer shop and let them figure it out. I don't have the time.
The motor is a 350 TBI with about 65 miles on the motor. All stock. I've checked all the TPS, MAP, etc. sensors as well as replaced the IAC valve. I'm not getting any codes. The motor does warm up a little too much but my fans are cooling it back down. I have not had the time to finish my WINALDL cable to hook it up to a computer.
Besides that, the trans shifted fine for the most part. My LED light comes on in about 3rd so the TCC is locking up. When the motor is running well the car will scoot. The Autometer speedo is way off, registering about 60 when I'm doing 25...lol. The driveshaft will sometimes "clank" when I shift into drive. The brakes work well. The PS has a little hang up spot in it. The wheels are rubbing like crazy and both me and my wifes face goes into some weird contorted shape when the rub. They are rubbing on both sides.
And a bunch of other things that need addressed.......
Other than that it was fun......lol.
Josh
It starting to get on my nerves. I'm thinking about taking it to a local auto computer shop and let them figure it out. I don't have the time.
The motor is a 350 TBI with about 65 miles on the motor. All stock. I've checked all the TPS, MAP, etc. sensors as well as replaced the IAC valve. I'm not getting any codes. The motor does warm up a little too much but my fans are cooling it back down. I have not had the time to finish my WINALDL cable to hook it up to a computer.
Besides that, the trans shifted fine for the most part. My LED light comes on in about 3rd so the TCC is locking up. When the motor is running well the car will scoot. The Autometer speedo is way off, registering about 60 when I'm doing 25...lol. The driveshaft will sometimes "clank" when I shift into drive. The brakes work well. The PS has a little hang up spot in it. The wheels are rubbing like crazy and both me and my wifes face goes into some weird contorted shape when the rub. They are rubbing on both sides.
And a bunch of other things that need addressed.......
Other than that it was fun......lol.
Josh
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
josh
sounds like u need to go back to the drawing board
You'll get her straightened out, just takes time :wavey:
sounds like u need to go back to the drawing board
You'll get her straightened out, just takes time :wavey:
Sounds like you need to get rid of all that new fangled electronic stuff and put a stock 283 in Josh! :happy0030::happy0030::happy0030:
Don
Don
Josh....Hope you get things ironed out and we see you at the Somerset cruise-in.:wavey:
Me too David. I've contacted a local repair shop that deals with computer controlled motors. I'm hoping to get the car in this week. Should be ready to go by the show.
Josh
Josh
The idle will always be slightly different when you restart the engine than when it was shut down. gm has the iac open up enough to get the engine to start up then after about 15 very long seeming seconds it will back down to the preset factory idle speed. note there is a specific position the throttle blades are supposed to be set at for a minumum idle around 550 rpm then the computer takes over from there with the iac to keep the idle stable. also there is a brown single wire that has to be unpluged and the timing set to a specific point usualy about 6 degrees . then reconnect the wire,afterwards. this is the base reference for the computer to work from . also if you have a bad ground or 2 it will put the whole thing kaos also check your fuel pressure . just a note a haynes manual for a late 80's truck has all this in it better explained and all you need is a voltmeter and timing light todo it best of luck hope this helps John
You have gone the extra mile. Sometines it needs to go to the next step. Best of luck and please let us know the results. :tu LloydMe too David. I've contacted a local repair shop that deals with computer controlled motors. I'm hoping to get the car in this week. Should be ready to go by the show.
Josh
Josh.. hope you get everything figured out. This is why I went with old school systems on my '57. :happy0030: I did install an HEI distributor. But thats all. Everything else is old school. I'm sure once you get it figured out you'll be happy though. :tu
We plan on going to the Tri-5 cruise at somerset in Oct, is that the one you guys are talking about Danchuk will be there.
otis
otis
John, good info but I'm aware of all that. I've done massive research on this before I installed the motor and throughout the wiring phase. I even replaced the IAC valve. My sensors are in spec and every thing is hooked up. I even installed the O2 sensor in my new headers.
If I advance the timing to a point sometimes the car idles up like it is suppose to then slowly comes back down like it suppose to. The only problem is the throttle response is terrible and causes the rpms to slowly fall after you take your foot off the gas. If I back the timing down to were it has good throttle response then it is terrible to start and idles up and down. When it comes down it almost dies. I usually have to barely crack the throttle to get it to start and when driving, it doesn't like any throttle.
Of course all of the above can change at any moment. The idle is not consistant, throttle response is not consistant, driveability is not consistant, etc.. The only thing that is almost consistant is the fact that it is hard to start but even that is not always the same. It's very confusing. I think it would be best to get it hooked to a computer and see what sensors/information is failing. As for fuel pressure, well that on is a toughy. Since the TBI doesn't have fuel rails it has to be done different. I do have a special fitting that is custom made for my TBI setup to allow a electronic fuel pressure gauge to be hooked up but I have not installed it yet. The gauge is $200 which I don't have at the moment.
Just for the record, I don't have a problem with carbs and old school. I just don't want that for my car. FI cars can run forever but can be hard to diagnose if something fails. Just the nature of the beast. I can't tune a carb either. I can get them close but I don't have the desire to learn to get them perfect. Different strokes for different folks.
Otis, I was talking about the Oct. Somernite Cruises show.
I'll get it figured out, just a matter of time.
Josh
If I advance the timing to a point sometimes the car idles up like it is suppose to then slowly comes back down like it suppose to. The only problem is the throttle response is terrible and causes the rpms to slowly fall after you take your foot off the gas. If I back the timing down to were it has good throttle response then it is terrible to start and idles up and down. When it comes down it almost dies. I usually have to barely crack the throttle to get it to start and when driving, it doesn't like any throttle.
Of course all of the above can change at any moment. The idle is not consistant, throttle response is not consistant, driveability is not consistant, etc.. The only thing that is almost consistant is the fact that it is hard to start but even that is not always the same. It's very confusing. I think it would be best to get it hooked to a computer and see what sensors/information is failing. As for fuel pressure, well that on is a toughy. Since the TBI doesn't have fuel rails it has to be done different. I do have a special fitting that is custom made for my TBI setup to allow a electronic fuel pressure gauge to be hooked up but I have not installed it yet. The gauge is $200 which I don't have at the moment.
Just for the record, I don't have a problem with carbs and old school. I just don't want that for my car. FI cars can run forever but can be hard to diagnose if something fails. Just the nature of the beast. I can't tune a carb either. I can get them close but I don't have the desire to learn to get them perfect. Different strokes for different folks.
Otis, I was talking about the Oct. Somernite Cruises show.
I'll get it figured out, just a matter of time.
Josh
Well, it's going in the shop today. My dad is driving it to the shop which is about 20+ miles away from my house. It hasn't been that far from my house before so I hope it makes it. I had to work so I couldn't take it. I hope they track down what is wrong with it.
Josh
Josh
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Chevy Tri Five Forum
A forum community dedicated to 1955, 1956, and 1957 Chevy owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about restoration, engine swaps, reviews, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more! Open to all models including Belair, 210, 150, Sedans, and Nomads.
Full Forum Listing
Top Contributors this Month
View All
Shadetree55
404 Replies
55wagoncrazy
220 Replies
BamaNomad
178 Replies
Recommended Communities
