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Distributor choice.

7K views 32 replies 13 participants last post by  acmsal55 
#1 ·
Thinking of changing out the factory distributor and doing an upgrade in that area,
What distributor would be a good choice? What would you recommend?
I have a 350, 700R4, and the car is a cruiser, looking for reliability. As of several years ago I put a Pertronics conversion in, I'm happy with the performance but question the old distributor reliability. (still has the oil tube) Planning to take a long trip this summer.
Is it worth the upgrade or do I just buy a spare Pertronics to throw in the trunk?

Thanks
Gary S
 
#4 ·
I have the PerTronix 1,
The oil tube is what your showing on the picture, I put a little oil in in a few times each year, It came on an original engine and I put it in the 350. It had points and condenser in it for years and in 2014 I switched it to Per Tronix.

Gary Sanger
 
#7 · (Edited)
I recommend a Pertronix D104600 cast distributor. It is a brand new clone of a 1957 and later Chevrolet distributor. It has a module (included) that uses lobe scan technology, so no magnets are used. The module, which is inside the distributor, senses the rotation of the distributors cam to fire the plugs. This distributor uses Ignitor I technology, so it can use a regular stock points style coil or you can upgrade to a Flamethrower I coil (though it will work just fine with an original coil and a stock ballast resistor). It uses the same distributor cap and rotor as a stock Chevrolet distributor. There is no other external box/ module required. All needed parts are included, even the cap and rotor. It has a simple two wire hook up. I have had one of these distributors installed in the 350 engine in my 56 Nomad for four trouble free years. I used a stock points style coil and a stock ballast resistor in my installation. The engine starts instantly. Here is a link: PerTronix D104600 Flame-Thrower Electronic Distributor, SBC/BBC, Black | eBay

The only quirk with this distributor, is that the Ignitor I module and coil will overheat and be damaged if you leave the cars ignition switch in the "On" position without the engine running. The distributor in my photos has a NOS 1957 4BC vacuum advance installed instead of the one Pertronix provides. This is because I wanted to continue using the steel vacuum line from my WCFB carburetor.

To clarify, you can use this distributor with a stock points style coil and a ballast resistor. If you opt for the Flamethrower I coil then no ballast resistor is needed (it must be removed or bypassed). This is because the Flamethrower coil has the needed 1.5 Ohm resistance built into it.

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#10 ·
I recommend a Pertronix D104600 cast distributor. It is a brand new clone of a 1957 and later Chevrolet distributor. It has a module (included) that uses lobe scan technology, so no magnets are used. The module, which is inside the distributor, senses the rotation of the distributors cam to fire the plugs. This distributor uses Ignitor I technology, so it can use a regular stock points style coil or you can upgrade to a Flamethrower I coil (though it will work just fine with an original coil and a stock ballast resistor). It uses the same distributor cap and rotor as a stock Chevrolet distributor. There is no other external box/ module required. All needed parts are included, even the cap and rotor. It has a simple two wire hook up. I have had one of these distributors installed in the 350 engine in my 56 Nomad for four trouble free years. I used a stock points style coil and a stock ballast resistor in my installation. The engine starts instantly. Here is a link: PerTronix D104600 Flame-Thrower Electronic Distributor, SBC/BBC, Black | eBay

The only quirk with this distributor, is that the Ignitor I module and coil will overheat and be damaged if you leave the cars ignition switch in the "On" position without the engine running. The distributor in my photos has a NOS 1957 4BC vacuum advance installed instead of the one Pertronix provides. This is because I wanted to continue using the steel vacuum line from my WCFB carburetor.

To clarify, you can use this distributor with a stock points style coil and a ballast resistor. If you opt for the Flamethrower I coil then no ballast resistor is needed (it must be removed or bypassed). This is because the Flamethrower coil has the needed 1.5 Ohm resistance built into it.


Just curious. In photo #2, you have what appears to be a vacuum line running from behind the carb. to the valve cover?? What is this for?? Is this your own design?? Thanks, Carmine.

View attachment 337580 View attachment 337579
 
#11 ·
If it doesn't have play in it, I wouldn't worry about it. The Pertronics I know nothing about except what I read here and a lot of people say to carry a spare. As for the oil tube, I would try my darnedest to pull the wick out and clean it. I know in other equipment like old electric motors the wicks get gummed up and don't allow oil through them like they should. I've had so many problems with wicks that I'd cut it to 1/2 or 1/3 the length and give it oil more often. Is there some info that says what kind of oil to use in it? Last but not least I'll say again, if it has no play it should be good.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Just curious. In photo #2, you have what appears to be a vacuum line running from behind the carb. to the valve cover?? What is this for?? Is this your own design?? Thanks, Carmine.

Carmine,
The engine appears to be stock, but is in reality a GM 350 crate motor (so no road draft tube). I dressed it with original components because I like the original stock look. The vacuum hose comes from the base of the 1957 Carter WCFB carburetor, and goes to the side of the PML cast aluminum valve covers. These valve covers have a cast in baffle and a hole with a grommet for a PCV valve. Just visible is the top of the PCV valve.

Steve
 
#17 ·
I know a lot of guys don't like the MSD Ready to Run distributors, but I had one for probably a decade and didn't have a single problem with it.

Before I installed it I was running a modified HEI. I put the MSD in and it instantly ran better, started better, and was noticeably more powerful I think because it's easy to tailor the advance curve with their adjustable springs and advance bushings. I ran it with a simple canister style Blaster coil...still have the coil too. I think I bought that coil and distributor in 2008 and the coil is still good. Only reason I'm not still running the distributor is because I switched to an EFI setup with a computer controlled ignition.

A little pricey, but in my opinion worth it.

Given what I've read about the Pertronix stuff, I'd not be inclined to run one. Everyone saying to have a spare on hand is the opposite of a ringing endorsement.
 
#18 ·
My msd RTR would act up when it got REAL hot. Ran great when cooler but when going WOT it really seemed to have lost a LOT of power. Maybe something to do with the higher rpm's? Turned out to be the circuit board inside the RTR. Took me a long time to figure that one out. It's now gutted and just the magnetic pick up is wired direct to a 6al box (which is sort of a waste of money in itself).
 
#20 · (Edited)
If after you get your new distributor you have any questions about how to hook it up properly, be sure to ask. Remember, do not leave your ignition switch in the "ON" position without the engine running, or the module and coil will overheat and be damaged. Make sure that you are using a points style coil, or if upgrading to a Flamethrower coil, use Flamethrower I only. If using a stock points style coil, retain your ballast resistor. If using the Flamethrower I coil, the ballast resistor must be removed or bypassed.
 
#23 ·
If after you get your new distributor you have any questions about how to hook it up properly, be sure to ask. Remember, do not leave your ignition switch in the "ON" position without the engine running, or the module and coil will overheat and be damaged.
That is one good thing about using the 6AL box. It will only trigger a "pulse", well a short series of pulses, but it won't stay "on" with the key left on, no matter what position the distributor is in. I wonder if by any chance they upgraded and fixed that problem with the RTR?
 
#24 · (Edited)
This is the same physical Pertronix distributor as mentioned above, but uses the Flamethrower III module. This module does not care if the ignition is left on. It also includes a built in easy to adjust rev. limiter. You can adjust the rev. limiter on the bench before installing the distributor.


Also recommended for the Flamethrower l and ll modules.

D7500715 Flamethrower III Dist. Ignition module
 
#26 ·
This is the same physical Pertronix distributor as mentioned above, but uses the Flamethrower III module. This module does not care if the ignition is left on. It also includes a built in easy to adjust rev. limiter. You can adjust the rev. limiter on the bench before installing the distributor.


Also recommended for the Flamethrower l and ll modules.

D7500715 Flamethrower III Dist. Ignition module
You are correct that the cast distributor is also available with Ignitor III. It does have a rev limiter, but why would you spend more money for the rev limiter, unless you have a high performance engine which the OP does not. With Ignitor III you must also buy a Flamethower III coil. I agree that having overload protection is a plus.
 
#25 ·
Too late now, since you already ordered a distributor. But I would have probably just upgraded to a much newer points distributor and converted it to electronic with an Accel kit. Mine was $10 for good solid points distributor off a CL ad, and $60 for the Accel kit. It works extremely well, and I keep a set of points and condenser in my tool kit just in case anything ever happened on a long trip. Eventually I'll probably stop carrying the spares once I've got years of trouble free driving.
 
#27 ·
I finally have the new Pertronix distributor(7104600) in, Car now runs great without the usual occasional miss as it would sit at a stop light. When I pulled the distributor cap off there was a thin film of oil inside the base of the cap.
New distributor has no miss, works great!!!

Thanks.
Gary Sanger
 
#29 ·
I finally have the new Pertronix distributor(7104600) in, Gary Sanger
Gary...I'm having difficulty finding that distributor online...Would you provide a link please.
 
#28 ·
Great job installing the distributor and getting everything sorted. In regards to the oil film inside the old distributor, I think that you dodged a very messy problem! It is also nice that you updated this thread to let us know how things turned out.

Steve
 
#31 ·
Steve,
Your right about dodging a bullet, each year around Christmas we take the 57 out and look at the Christmas lights. This summer I noticed that the car had an intermittent miss and was never consistent, and it lasted all through the cruising around to see the Christmas lights.
I bought the distributer last year shortly after the post but never took the time to put it in.
When I and my son took the distributor out early this week I noticed right away that the trace of oil and the streak of oil residue about an inch up from the bottom was a concern and probably the root of all the running issues.
The week before when my wife and I had it out looking a Christmas lights I jumped hard on it and "blew the cobs out" before I was going to tuck it in for the remainder of the winter much to my wife's displeasure and after I did that it really ran like crap the remainder of the way home. Wife gave me the stink eye all the way home that night, Ha!
But all is well now after the new distributor is in, I went out yesterday just to start it and it don't miss at all, runs as smooth as it should.
your right it could have been a bad situation with a little more oil slung around, Dodged a Bullet for sure,

Than you,

Gary Sanger AKA Buckshot
 
#30 ·
There are several currently listed on E-Bay. Here is a link to the best price. But act quickly, it is the last one for this seller. If you miss out on it, you will have to pay a few dollars more.


Steve
 
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