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Hi i want to move my drivers door a Little back from the fender and up against the roof. any tip how i do door alignment. Thanks:p3:
 

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You've got a fair amount of adjustment range in the door hinges. Loosen all the hinge bolts and door strike / latch assembly so they are a wee bit less than snug. Test in door space to see how close you can get the door to where you want it to be.

You may also need to adjust the fender based on your door alignment reference. :blowtiedb:
 

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Hi i want to move my drivers door a Little back from the fender and up against the roof. any tip how i do door alignment. Thanks:p3:
If all you want to do is move it back, and the up and down are fine, then just do this:

1) With door panel off, take some masking tape and put it flush on the lower hinge so the edge is against the door. Loosen the 2 outer most bolts on the hinge. Now loosen the center most bolt while lifting the door, so the door moves away from the tape edge about the amount you want. Tighten the center bolt. DO NOT CLOSE THE DOOR YET.
2) Do step one to the top hinge, but this time let the door come down about the same as you lifted the door in step one. Tighten the center bolt. Now the door should be at he same heigth as it was to start, just further back. Contine this until you get it just where you want it. When it is where you want it, tighten the remaining 4 bolts.

Mikey
55wagoncrazy
 

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I'm interested in this thread too.

If it turns out that I need to raise my door hinges to get the right fit happening, is it best to shim them up? If it's a 1/16" space, what sort of shims do I buy? (I figure it's best to have the hinges sitting one something, rather than just relying on horizontal fastening.)

The reason I ask is that I may have run out of vertical adjustment where the doors attach to the hinge arms.

And do the hinges need to come out in order to fit shims? Or can they just be loosened one at a time, door attached, and shims slid in below. (Wishful thinking?)
 

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I'm interested in this thread too.

If it turns out that I need to raise my door hinges to get the right fit happening, is it best to shim them up? If it's a 1/16" space, what sort of shims do I buy? (I figure it's best to have the hinges sitting one something, rather than just relying on horizontal fastening.)

The reason I ask is that I may have run out of vertical adjustment where the doors attach to the hinge arms.

And do the hinges need to come out in order to fit shims? Or can they just be loosened one at a time, door attached, and shims slid in below. (Wishful thinking?)
I've been doing this for 40 years and I know of no way to shim the hinges!

If you have run out of adjustment up or down than you need to move the hinge on the body up or down. To do this you may have to remove the door completely. The hinge will have to have the phillips screws loose and the inner hex bolts. Then lift the hinge up. I like to make sure the hinge is centerd in the opening, and also in and out. If you are moving the hinge up, then put tape along the lower edge to mark where it is BEFORE you move it.

The only other way to do this is to open the door, about halfway, and place a floor jack with a block of wood under the front area of the door. Loosen all the hinge to body fasteners and lift the door. Again use tape around the hinge where it mates up to the body so you know where you were BEFORE YOU LOOSENED THE FASTENERS.

Mikey
55wagoncrazy
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
By the way: Hej på dig, Swede!
Hej på dej johnonetrillion jaså en Chevy ägare som kan svenska på andra sidan jordklotet jag utgår från att du är från Sverige och utvandrat till australien eller?.finns det många Classic Chevys downunder i Sverige finns det gott om dom.Jag har precis fått hem min från los angeles en 1956 handyman.

Med vänlig hälsning Lars.
 

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Hej Lasse!

Yes, I was born in Sweden but moved to Australia with family when I was little.

The Chevrolet brand was popular and available in some numbers, depending on the year, until the late 60s (I think) – but they have always been imported as single cars and were converted to RHD while those regulations stood. Now we can drive LHD on the 'wrong' side of the road – a bit like Sweden before they changed sides, with the driver sitting in the gutter!

My parents lived in the US in the late 50s to early 60s and had a Buick and a Lincoln each, so maybe that's where I got the interest from.

Plenty of interest in US cars in Australia, but we have not typically been as mad over them as the Swedes. That's possibly because of the low numbers available on release here, the distance/cost in bringing them here; the until recent requirement to have them RHD; and the fact that there were locally designed and manufactured GM (and Ford and Chrysler) cars that include classic and muscle models.

I've got a 57 Sports Coupe that I had brought in from LA many years ago and is now RHD.

Good to touch base. Where are you located?
 

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I found that there is a fair amount of adjustment from the hinge pocket bolts. One thing to think about, if you adjust it and feel like your just not getting the movement you desire.... I ended up cleaning away the hardened tar that is all gooped around the bolt blocks on the backside of the a pillar. That allowed for increased adjustment. I was able to finally get the dools to align after doing this.

Good luck,
Gil
 

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I've been doing this for 40 years and I know of no way to shim the hinges!
Thanks, Mikey.

I was a little wrong in my reference for this. The fellow who mentioned shims meant it in relation to packing the hinge from behind to bring it back on the car, if needed. Not up or down.

Have all the information I need on this, I think, as well as a roll of tape, and will report back once done.

Cheers
 
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