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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello...I am wanting to lower the wifes 55 and would really like to bring the front wheels in a bit as well.I have ordered the 2" lowering springs but would like some opinions as to which A-arms/spindles/brake kit will work the best.I beleive I currently have the stock A-arms/spindles with a disc brake conversion.The car was restored about 10 years ago by someone other than myself so not absolutely sure what I have...the wheels seem to be a bit far out though.Also any recomendations as to a good supplier will be greatly appreciated.Thanks in Advance!!
 

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I think the disc brake conversions, from all i`ve read, seem to move the wheels out about 3/4-1 inch on each side. About the only way i`d know of moving them back in would be to get some wheels with more back spacing.
Terry
 

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I got my brake set up and dropped spindles from dfbrakes. also. It did move my wheels out about 3/4 in and I had to roll the inter fender lips for clearance. They work great. If I replace my wheels I will get a little more back spacing for clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The front brake setup that is currently on the car is the same one DFBrakes sells.I am wanting to lower the car,I've already ordered the 2" lowering springs but am thinking I want to lower it another couple of inches.I can buy just the dropped spindles but understand they aren't compatible with what I have.Heidts makes a complete kit for the 55 which consists of narrowed tubular upper/lower control arms,dropped spindles,calipers,rotors etc but I am trying to avoid spending that much $$ if I can.I use Heidts stuff all of the time on the rods I build and they make an awesome product....I'm just trying to save a couple bucks! I have 17" wheels from Dave Nace at Intro Wheel on the front,they have a 5" backspace and I have absolutely no clearance problems.....I just want to drop it a bit more in the weeds:D
 

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I would like to let you in on what not to buy. I purchased a 2" dropped spindle, power disc brake kit on e-bay. I purchased the kit from fat rodders out of Iowa. First thing I did before the purchase was called there store and asked details about there kit, modifications, fabricating and so forth. They had told me that I may have to drill or redrill booster mounting holes in the firewall and that was about it. The kit was a great price at about 580.00 with shipping. It included cast iron spindles with the caliper ears cast on to them, rotors,calipers,bearings,master, booster,proportioning valve, mounting bracets. I payed with pay pal and it still took over six weeks to receive all of the parts. First problem was that the spindle being made of cast iron instead of forged steel they have to add iron material to have comparable strength to the forged peice, well when installed the spindle was coming in contact with the area around the lower control arm, ball joint area. I called and they told me they have to be ground down for clearance (sometimes!) so after that I had problems with the alignment of the push rod to the pedal, cut and had to relocate the brackets, had three inches of toe in when done, and had to modifiy the stops on lower control arms. Luckily I am able to do the work myself, but if I had brought this in to be installed the labor involved would of been hefty! All I can tell you is don't get sucked in to the smoking deal kit set ups that are made in china. It just isn't worth the time and frustration to run this crap and you still have some no name stuff. If I could do it again, I would have run the heigts forged spindles, they claim to be a direct bolt on and wouldn't even have to realign. Good luck. Scott
 

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dropped spindle

Scott is right on the money with the E-bay kits, but by using this kit the wheels do set in a little more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have found that most things on eBay aren't what they seem to be :(
 

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The best method, in my opinion, is to buy the brackets from a reputable company and purchase the remaining parts from a local parts place. I purchased a kit from df and realized I could have picked up all the parts cheaper myself.
A few things to be aware of:
Don't expect support from ebay sellers or their printed instructions, neither one is understandable.
You'll need new spindle nuts. Don't bother to try to drill the spindle, you'll only get pissed off more. Buy thinner nuts (available locally).
Yes, your wheels will move out a little bit, but you won't notice the difference and neither will anyone else.
You can do a fairly good alignment yourself, in your garage, in just a few minutes that will work well enough to get you to a professional shop.
The first time you step on the brakes when she's back on the road will just about put you through the windshield.
You're going to bust a nut trying to get some of the nuts and bolts off. Take your time, have fun.
 

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I didn't do the dropped spindles or springs on my chassis. I bought my parts from East Coast Chevy back in Jan 06. My disk brakes bolted up nicely with no problems. The power disc kit was $610 for the 56.
Dave
 

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Help !!1 FatRodder Front Disc Brake Conversion Kit

Hello,

I also bought a Fat Rodder Front Disc Brake Conversion Kit for my 57 and would not do it again. The women running the place are idiots.

After I installed kit I took to lcoal shop for aligment and found out I have -2.0 degrees of Caster that I need to correct by adding in an after market control arm shafter. If I buy after market tublar control arms, will this help correct (or at least provide adjustment) to my Caster problem?

Anotrher problem I found out is that after about 15-20 minutes of constant driving, my wheel beearing heat up and start to seize. I check and my spindle nut is not very tight.

Can caster misalignment afffect wheel bearings? any help appreciated

Best Regards,

Erol
Euless, TX
 

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Help Fat Rodder Front Disc Brake Conversion Kit

Hello,

I also bought a Fat Rodder Front Disc Brake Conversion Kit for my 57 and would not do it again. The women running the place are idiots.

After I installed kit I took to lcoal shop for aligment and found out I have -2.0 degrees of Caster that I need to correct by adding in an after market control arm shafter. If I buy after market tublar control arms, will this help correct (or at least provide adjustment) to my Caster problem?

Anotrher problem I found out is that after about 15-20 minutes of constant driving, my wheel beearing heat up and start to seize. I check and my spindle nut is not very tight.

Can caster misalignment afffect wheel bearings? any help appreciated

Best Regards,

Erol
Euless, TX
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Seems to me it would have to be incredibly off to affect the bearings.I would look elsewhere for the culprit.
 

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Help Fat Rodder Front Disc Brake Conversion Kit

Hi Guys,

Tore apart again and the bearings and grease appear to be fine. I believe my front disc brakes have to much pressure on them. Either from the proportioning valve (standard 5 port brass, Disc/Drim) or my brake booster rod to the pedal. I don't think there is any play in it now. How much if any should there be?

Rockabilly EB
 

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You might try Classic Performance products (CPP) web-site. Under their tech section there are many informative articles on brakes, Proportioning valve's, Power Boosters...etc. You might also try Hot Rods USA (hotrodsusa.com) web-site. Under their "brakes" area, at the bottom of the page, there is a tech section where an article titled "brakes article" is listed. That article is written by Dean Oshiro and also has a lot of good info. Both companies have excellent customer service areas IMHO and will respond to email tech questions at length. Hope this helps!:)

55fazzi
 

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Front Disc Brake Conversion

Thansk for the info. I will look at those sites. I checked and there is no positive pressure on the booster pedal rod. Could the brake booster be providing some positive pressure without pressure to the rod?

At this point the thing it could be are bad calipers not backing off when brake pedal is release. It appears that once I start car and first time I brake, calipers stick causing constant pressure on rotor and pads that heat up and become very hot. Is that possible

A new rebuilt calpier is from Autozone is only $15 so I am going ttry one out .
 

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Thansk for the info. I will look at those sites. I checked and there is no positive pressure on the booster pedal rod. Could the brake booster be providing some positive pressure without pressure to the rod?

At this point the thing it could be are bad calipers not backing off when brake pedal is release. It appears that once I start car and first time I brake, calipers stick causing constant pressure on rotor and pads that heat up and become very hot. Is that possible

A new rebuilt calpier is from Autozone is only $15 so I am going ttry one out .
There should be about 1/4' of travel in the brake pedal before the rod pushes on the booster. If there isn't this free play, your brakes WILL be dragging!
 
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