[Rick_L]

I have driven at least two other 57s recently with disc brakes where the pedal went almost to the floor before the brakes started working, and frankly the stopping power was no better then what I have now and maybe even less. One had the metric calipers, the other chevelle calipers. I dont know if it was the install, bleeding, the quality of the kits or parts installed, but it was a little scary driving those cars, and I only drove them for just a bit and did not like the stopping at all.

You still have to adjust the rear brakes to get a high pedal.

 

[ETriggs]

Could be, but i have been driving this bucket of bolts for a couple of decades with drum brakes. For now, just the move to a dual pot master is enough change for me at the moment, lol.

Change too much to newer tech and you’ll hit the brakes and end up in the windshield like a bug.

 

[Dragsix]

Lol! We’ll see. I will get a chance to drive Patrick’s car when it’s drivable. I know the quality of the parts, the install, so I can get a real world evaluation then.

 

[hotrodg726]

Change too much to newer tech and you’ll hit the brakes and end up in the windshield like a bug.

that was the first drive in my 56 with hydroboost.

 

[HILLBILLY 823]

Lol! We’ll see. I will get a chance to drive Patrick’s car when it’s drivable. I know the quality of the parts, the install, so I can get a real world evaluation then.

Just curious Mike, when might that be?

 

[Dragsix]

Wish I knew. We just had some of the sheet metal blasted over the weekend. All four doors, the hood, hood parts, and a few other parts. Blasting around here is slim pickens. So I had to take what I could get and a local guy water blasted, the so called dustless blasting, the parts. Did a pretty good job but the parts are a little messy so still in the cleaning and primering stage. Still a long way to go I fear.

 

[Farm Boy]

The main advantage of disc brakes is they never need adjustment, they run cooler with less fade, and dry out quicker when wet.

Having said that, a properly sorted and adjusted set of drum brakes will stop your street driven car just fine. The self energizing feature of drum brakes improves their performance. Drum brakes will also keep your wheels cleaner.

Disc brakes are clearly superior, but a Tri-five with drum brakes and a set of old school Torq Thrust wheels (not the Torq Thrust-D) looks really good to me.

 

[Murph]

Change too much to newer tech and you’ll hit the brakes and end up in the windshield like a bug.

😆

 

[Murph]

This is all very interesting! I've been wanting to go to a dual reservoir mc for some time, but it's somewhat confusing at times, with whether to use a prop valve or not even after reading the threads. I'm not interested in having a light I am building my 55 as a cruiser not hard running. I plan to use drums all around, at least for now, maybe front disc at a later time. I was thinking of using a mc from a 71 or 72 Chevelle. Prop valve or no?
BTW, congratulations on having your 57 all this time. I've had my 55 about the same number of years.

 

[Dragsix]

Use a drum drum master cylinder for a 67-69 camaro. That is the decades old classic tried and true master cylinder.

 

[Murph]

Use a drum drum master cylinder for a 67-69 camaro. That is the decades old classic tried and true master cylinder.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH! Do I need a prop valve?

 

[Murph]

THANK YOU VERY MUCH! Do I need a prop valve?

Looking at your 3rd post, I assume, "no"?

 

[Dragsix]

No proportioning valve if four wheel drum

 

[Murph]

Thank you very much! I apologize for side tracking this thread, I sure didn't mean to. Excellent presentation!👍

 

[Dragsix]

You did no such thing! Always happy to help, always happy to have others ask questions, always happy to encourage a lively conversation on a trifive subject!

Mike

 

[Murph]

Thanks Mike
Greg

 

[ruff555]

my 57 gets inspected every year by the NSRA and they tell me i should go to a dual master cylinder since i run the original treadle vac drum brake system. in 2021 at the nationals we looked at changing the system but would have to change basically the whole front of the engine because of my power steering on front of the generator. the car stops fine and i cant see changing the entire engine for a dual master cylinder. my car is how it came from the factory and as long as i have her that is the way it will stay. by the way i always get a 23 out of 23 for safety.

 

[Dragsix]

Truth is, I would leave mine the way it is now but both of my sons are giving me a hard time about it so I am going to give it a shot. If the master does not fit or I dont like the way the pedal feels or the car brakes, I will likely change it back.

 

[Dragsix]

So I thought I might continue posting my progress just in case there is anyone else like me that is going kicking and screaming out of a single pot master, lol.

I cut some excess metal off the main bracket, welded the additional bracket for the line loc and hold downs for after the pressure residual valves, filled in a couple of holes I don’t need, and then knocked the welds down with a grinder. Since I am from the welding school of weld a pound of wire on, then grind most of it off, I had a bit of grinding to do. Of course the rule around here remains no laughing At my welds, lol. Absolutely no laughing.

still a little finishing work with a Dremel to make it look just a bit nicer, one hole to drill and I can do a final mock up.

 

[Dragsix]

This morning, weather was heading to the 50s so I thought I would take a stab at painting my 67 GTO master cylinder. Paint may very well be a mistake here but I am going to take a chance and see how it plays out.

started with the rebuilt unit.

two coats of etching primer from a rattle can