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I started to mock up my exhaust over the weekend and noticed there will probably be an interference with the emergency brake cable and the mufflers. I searched the forum and saw others had a similar issue and just left it. I can relocate the brackets about 4 inches forward (on the other side of the body mount). This should remove the interference. What I don't have in my hand are any of the ebrake parts, so I am not sure if everything will still fit right. Do you guys think this will be OK?
 

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I moved rear brackets to the bottom of the frame so my cable would clear my mufflers. You can see that they don't hang any lower than my traction bar brackets.









 

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On mine the e-brake brackets don't hang quite as low as traction bar brackets do.
Are you going to put on traction bars?

I don't think I would suggest this for the e-brake brackets if you weren't going with traction bars.
 

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Another way to do this is to use Lokar cables or at least Lokar style.

With this setup, you can eliminate the lever and associated stuff under the middle of the car.

You run a single cable most of the way back, and connect it to a splitter that gives you a cable to each rear brake. Since the secondary cables are sheathed, you don't have to have "line of sight" like the stock setup.

This is similar to the setup under a late 60s GM car. In fact you could use pieces from one. If you use the stock e-brake, you'll need to put a lever where the splitter is. Or you can use a GM or Lokar foot pedal, or a Lokar trans hump mount lever, no lever needed under the car.

I forget who posted it, but somebody had some photos of a nice lever setup like I'm describing.
 

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Hello, were running our mufflers just in back of the H pipe and transmission crossmember. The mufflers came from Summit and are large and very quiet at idle, but when you hit the go pedal they wake up. If you look at our build http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72541&page=7 post #'s 64,66, and 79 they will show the exhaust system. I hope this helps in some way with what your trying to accomplish

Good luck with your build

Randy

1955 Chevy 2dr. sedan/LM7 5.3/Munice 4-speed http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72541

1961 Chevy Impala (aka bubbletop) 400 cu in/4-speed
http://www.348-409.com/forum/index.php?threads/61-impala-restoration.12885/
 

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Another way to do this is to use Lokar cables or at least Lokar style.
Since I have a 9" and Wilwoods I had to use the Lokar cable, but I did exactly what Rick said.

I do have a 4-bar suspension so I had something to cheat with, but I ran the pax side cable to the inboard driver frame rail by attaching the cable to the 4-bar mount to get across. They meet up on the drivers side frame rail, I drilled (2) holes in the vertical part of the body mounts to run both cables toward the front, on the inboard part of the frame, where they then meet up and go to a single cable with a foot brake.

Might be tough to get pictures, but I'll give it a go this evening.

Charlie
 
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