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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone I have searched but struggled to find answers for my specific application.

I have the crane cams xr-1 conversion in my stock distributor, very similar to the petronex I have been told. I am using a coil and I think it says to use a ballast resistor but I want get rid of the resistor to clean up my firewall.

How do I wire it up using the existing 2x green, tan and red wires.

Thanks again

Andy
 

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Andy, you can try eliminating the ballast resister (capacitor) from the system. It's used to limit voltage to the coil. The older style coils were 9V and not 12V as marked. You'll get a hotter spark without the resister. You may decrease the life of your coil and points

The newer coils don't need the resister. I don't know why we call the part a ballast resister...it's actually a capacitor.

All the best :anim_25:
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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The newer coils don't need the resister. I don't know why we call the part a ballast resister...it's actually a capacitor.

All the best :anim_25:
If the Crane instructions say to use a resistor, I would us it and it IS a resistor, not a capacitor. You can move the resistor out of sight if you don't want it on the firewall, but it does get hot, so make sure it has some ventilation and not near any combustables. Connect the red wire from the Crane to the top 12 volt end of the resistor. Leave the other wires where that were.
 

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I'm with Don all the way on this one (as usual:))
The Crane instructions say it definitely needs a ballast resistance, so I would not eliminate it.
Here are the instructions:
http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/instructions/9000-1700c_.pdf

Also, the capacitor confusion could be concerning the condenser in a points ignition.
Condenser and capacitor are the same thing.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor
A resistor IS a resistor:)

I would like to know how the Crane system works for you.

Good luck
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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Also, the capacitor confusion could be concerning the condensor in a points ignition.
Condensor and capacitor are the same thing.
There is a capacitor sometimes mounted on the side of the coil connected to the + terminal for radio noise suppression ONLY and has nothing to do with the ignition system.
 

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There is a capacitor sometimes mounted on the side of the coil connected to the + terminal for radio noise suppression ONLY and has nothing to do with the ignition system.
Nothing to do with the ignition, unless it shorts out:)
I had that happen once. Took me a while to figure that one out!
 
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"ballast resister (capacitor)", nope, NOT a capacitor, but a simple load coil, and, it does exactly what the fellow above says it does.

Remove it, NO, NO, NO, NO, NO........NO!. Special coil to make more spark, never will happen, no drivers in the Crane to increase dwell, no benefit one coil over another. Use a good set of magnetic suppression, spiral or magna core wires, 7mm are fine for that system, and keep the plug gaps down to .032 to .035 MAX.

"Over-volting" any of these drop-in units to "force them to make more spark", by feeding them more volts/current...DOESN'T FORCE THEM TO PRODUCE ONE MORE VOLT OF SPARK ENERGY. What it does do, is to enhance over volt failures of the units.

If this is the one with the rev limiter, they have problems with a lot of them, once set, the limiter progressively degrades the limit down as it is engaged, until the limit stops and stays at the lowest value built into the ignition.

Don't expect too much from this system, it is an average set of electronic points, but, not a performance system by any stretch of the imagination.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So I distinctly get the message to keep the ballast!

The module works well and I have had no issues with it. In saying that its only 12 months old now. I have had no issues with the rev limiter but I suppose I won't when I drive it like "Miss Daisy".

I have heard though that you can remove the ballast but need to get the correct coil for the application. Is this recommended or do I just leave it well alone.

I have been told the easiest way is to just go HEI?

Thanks for the advice guys....:)
 
G

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I don't write the things I do because I want to cause trouble, just the opposite, I do so to stop trouble from starting. Please realize, I don't sugar coat things, I tell them exactly like they are, and, some times, others take that as arrogance, IT ISN'T. It is simply the very emphatic attempt to get the right info out, over the speculation and info others have been given, that might well not be the right info for the system you are asking about. .

Once again, it does not matter what coil you use with the drop in systems, use the resistor, as they will not live well with full battery voltages.

There is NO coil that will allow the Crane, and/or PerTronics units to operate properly without a ballast resistor of some sort, in place and functioning. GM vehicles use a resistance value of 1.80 ohms, porcelain and wire resistor types.

I do this kind of work EVERY DAY, ignition systems, and I see more than my fair share of dead (fill in the blank) systems, and a large percentage of them died from the user unwittingly removing the resistor, from advice given by perfectly well intended others that don't work on these systems day in, day out.

NOT to upset anyone, but, when I post there is a reason, to try to help those people that ask, NOT to have problems with their ignition systems. Take, or leave the advice, but, realize, it comes from over 4 decades of hands on, fixing everybody else's disaster ignition systems experience.

And, YES, an HEI, properly set up, IS leaps and bounds better than any drop in system ever will be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yep, as I said I get the message from some very good advice given that I should keep the resistor... And will do.

More than happy with the advice given too I might add.
 
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