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Close to a decision on engine replacement. Probably going with the Pace GMP-10067353-K Chevy 300 HP with free shipping. I am after a dependable engine with a cam sound (lump/lump). I am having cooling troubles still- (runs 215).
I will fit a shroud on my 350 in the 6 cylinder position, wire the 14 inch pusher electric fan to come on with ignition and install a 17 lb radiator cap first.
JohnMc
 

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I was also looking at this engine or the ZZ350 as a replacement for my 55 vert. I am still running the front post motor mounts and rams horn manifolds. Will I have to go to a smaller harmonic balancer on the new engine to clear the post motor mounts?
I am also running a muncie 4 speed. Will I have to change the flywheel and bell housing?
 

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I was also looking at this engine or the ZZ350 as a replacement for my 55 vert. I am still running the front post motor mounts and rams horn manifolds. Will I have to go to a smaller harmonic balancer on the new engine to clear the post motor mounts?
I am also running a muncie 4 speed. Will I have to change the flywheel and bell housing?
I believe they make the front mounts that are cut out some, for clearance of the balancer.Or you can cut your original mounts to clear.
Others should chime in to confer this.
 

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I was also looking at this engine or the ZZ350 as a replacement for my 55 vert. I am still running the front post motor mounts and rams horn manifolds. Will I have to go to a smaller harmonic balancer on the new engine to clear the post motor mounts?
I am also running a muncie 4 speed. Will I have to change the flywheel and bell housing?
Bellhousing - no
Flywheel -- yes on the ZZ4 because it has a one-piece main seal. No on the $1895 Pace engine.

I can't answer the damper clearance question, but a 6.75" damper will work fine on a 350 if the 8" is too big.

On another note, it looks like Pace started with a base Goodwrench engine, changed the cam, and added an intake manifold. Sounds like a pretty good deal for $1895. However, gearheads like me will say the cam is too big for the compression, which is actually more like 7.9:1 That will probably cost you torque across the entire power band, while adding a little horsepower at the upper end of the RPM range.

The cam's 112 LSA is a double-edge sword. On the one hand, it will reduce overlap and make for a smoother idle. On the other hand, it will reduce cylinder pressure. I'd rather use something with a tighter LSA to keep the cylinder pressure up, like an Isky #201264 at 214/214/108. A side benefit for the original poster would be a lumpier idle.
 

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balancers fit

All good info, but if you switch balancers make sure you compare timing mark to keyway. pre 77 was lined up with keyway and tab was on driver side. 77 and up were rotated I think 21 degrees and are viewed from above and behind the water pump. FYI
 

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All good info, but if you switch balancers make sure you compare timing mark to keyway. pre 77 was lined up with keyway and tab was on driver side. 77 and up were rotated I think 21 degrees and are viewed from above and behind the water pump. FYI
Very good advice. I have seen at least a couple guys struggle with timing because they used the later model balancers that are marked for use with a "sight tube" near 12 o'clock.
 
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