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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All,

I recently purchased, a little over a month ago, my first Tri Five...a '55 210. This is my daily driver/commuter so I want to ensure it remains dependable. I would consider myself handy but definitely not a grease monkey so bear with me.

The guy I bought the car from built it to be a hot rod, put in a rebuilt 350 engine from a 1976 Suburban. The pistons were bored .060 over which he stated made if about 360 ci. The compression ratio is roughly 9 3/4 to 1. Everything inside the engine was replaced with hot rod parts. The cam is a 292 with a 501 lift. He put dual 4 barrel Edelbrock carbs on it. He put custom headers on it which produce great sound but I also fear a ton of heat.

Now to my questions/concerns. The engine typically will run around 190 degrees on the highway. When sitting in Texas traffic on really hot days(outside temp 105) the temperature climbed to 215, should I be concerned? Also is it normal, even on cool days, for the hood/hood latch to be extremely hot to the touch? The hood sometimes feels as though I could fry an egg on it, literally.

Another problem I am constantly dealing with is after the car has warmed up I have a hard time re-starting the engine if I have stopped. I contacted the seller and he claims it to be vapor lock and said that I just need to put the pedal to the floor. This does work after a few attempts but is there a way to resolve the issue?

Thanks all,

Hank
 

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A pair of electric fans will help keep the engine running cooler. You can wrap the headers with the heat wrap insulation that all the usual parts supply houses like Jegs and Summit sell. This will help keep the under hood temps down.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Dan,

Thanks for the reply. The problem I have is room for the fans. I am near the end of a Vintage Air install and the condenser, combined with the after market radiator, required me to have to cut the back end of the hood latch mounting bracket and plate so I have no more room. And currently the trani-cooler is on the left in front of the condenser.

Also do any of those raps they have out, look decent? I know the ones I had seen looked like wrapping your headers with a fire hose and I do want to try to maintain the aesthetics if at all possible as well.

Thanks again,

Hank
 

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Hank...Three recommendations:

1. Install a fan shroud

2. Install a puller fan on the engine side of the radiator

3. Install a Stewart, high flow water pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Dan,

Thanks for the reply. Already have 1 and 2 in place, I will have to investigate the water pump.

Hank
 

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I believe that .060 over is the maximum that you should take a small block to as it makes the cylinder walls pretty thin to the cooling passages, so whilst the engine is fine it will probably run a little hotter than usual.

You could check that the fans you have on the engine are decent quality, I've read/seen some fans that quote high CFM, but do not live up to the claims.

The other thing to check is the radiator - is it fairly new ? you could consider an aluminium radiator (plenty of info here, just search). I'm not sure how much this would help.

Are you running the correct mixture of anti freeze ?

You might want to consider something like this : http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=10 I have no personal experience but have read good things about such an additive.
 

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It seems to me your engine is running fine, and your cooling system is doing fairly well with the temperatures reported.

Running at 215º sitting in traffic on a hot Texas day is also acceptable if you aren't losing coolant. A 14 pound radiator cap will help keep this from happening.

If you are nervous about the temperature in traffic, the first thing to do would be to install a fan shroud to get more airflow at low vehicle speed.

In reply to the other suggestions, IMO you don't need a better water pump, and you don't need electric fans. You are actually doing just fine. Those things won't hurt, but there's no point in buying and installing them unless you need them. I think the shroud is a better bang for your $$ and time and is all you probably need.

Since your engine is running cool on the highway, I doubt there's anything wrong with your radiator.

And I wouldn't be concerned with the .060" overbore either. The .060" overbore will not make the engine run hotter. How could it? The negative of too much overbore (and I don't think .060" is too much), is that you are more likely to have damage IF you overheat - but it won't make it happen.

I don't think you need additives either.

These guys are good at spending your money and thinking of all possible things that could be wrong, but very little if anything is wrong here. The shroud could give you a bit more margin against having a problem in traffic, and I think that's all you need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks all for the replies, I appreciate it. Any comments on the vapor lock, just deal with it?

Thanks again,

Hank
 

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If you have to put the pedal to the floor to start it, it's not vapor lock.

Having to put the pedal to the floor would indicate flooding. Often this can be cured by correctly setting the float level.

Have you experimented with throttle position when starting hot?

Another reason to need to floor the pedal when starting hot is that you either have too much initial timing, or your battery, cables, or starter need attention. The engine cranks faster when the throttle is open compared to when closed. Either one of these gets worse when you have high compression.
 

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You're daily driver is a 2-4 barrel bored out 350?:tu
What's your mileage? :eek:
Check your gas line and make sure it's away from those headers.
That was a problem I had when I first got mine.
Check your timing too, and make sure it's not advanced more than needed.
I gotta agree with Rick, I don't think you've got much problem, really.
Just get a shroud.
Let us know how it goes. :tu
 

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Hi I changed my fan to a 6 blade high pitch fan to pull more air across the rad and went with an aluminum rad for a 57 Chevy V8 position did wonders for the cooling of the engine at low speeds and idling
As for the vapor lock it happens to me only once at year at the famous Woodward dream cruise in Detroit Michigan going hours at idle and only moving a few miles in a few hours I went with an electric fuel pump installed back near the gas tank PROBLEM SOLVED !!!!
Hope this helps
Bob 1957carnut
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Jeff,

LOL, that is what the guy said I bought the car from! I get roughly 8.5 MPG and I enjoy every minute of it. Life is too short, I could have continued wishing I had one, driving my Acura TL and listening to "common sense" but instead I went out and got one! And I love every minute of it....well almost...the knuckle bangers, Vintage Air AC install woes, etc....but **** I didn't know what I was missing until I got behind the wheel of my '55.

I will definitely check what Rick recommends and the timing as well...all will be new to me, haven't ever messed aroudn with either.

I already have a shroud in place, I will look into the 6 blade high pitch fan Bob referrenced.

Thanks gentlemen for the information and support.

Hank
 

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I agree with the above post that said that running 195 most of the time and peaking at 215 isn't anything to worry about.

As for your "vapor lock" problem, does this only occur when you shut down the engine while hot and then have trouble restarting it? If that's the case, it's more likely the heat built up in the engine compartment causing expansion of the gas in the carb causing it to dump raw gas into the intake and flooding the engine. If you're able to hold it to the floor and it will start, then it's probably flooded and not vapor locked. With vapor lock, you'll usually have the engine quit while running, usually at low speeds, and it won't restart until you purge the fuel like to get the vapor bubble out of it.

Hope this helps.
 

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check your thermostat my car ran just like yours 195 and 215 turned out it had the wrong stat 160 degree . I put in a 180 and it runs 185 all the time now. the therory here is the water doesnt stay in the rad long enough to get cool enough . all I knoe is mine is running cool now :happy0030::happy0030:
 

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All,



Another problem I am constantly dealing with is after the car has warmed up I have a hard time re-starting the engine if I have stopped. I contacted the seller and he claims it to be vapor lock and said that I just need to put the pedal to the floor. This does work after a few attempts but is there a way to resolve the issue?

Thanks all,

Hank
When the car is warm does it crank the same, or does the starter struggle? If its cranking differently the starter is probably getting heat-soaked and not working properly. My $0.02, Jesse
 

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And I wouldn't be concerned with the .060" overbore either. The .060" overbore will not make the engine run hotter. How could it? The negative of too much overbore (and I don't think .060" is too much), is that you are more likely to have damage IF you overheat - but it won't make it happen.
The theory says that the cylinder walls are thinner, so theres less metal to absorb the heat ?

I agree its going to be ok, there must be millions of 60 over blocks out there, but at this point you can't really go for another rebore.

I think most of the suggestions are being made on the premise of getting the temperatures down even further.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The starting problem only appears to require the foot to the floor to fix it(which based on the responses sounds like flooding) and only occurs if the engine is warm. The starter has no problem turning the motor over at this point, I just have to put the pedal to the floor and turn it over a few times....it will start a moment, fail....turn over, start again, and fail....and finally around the 3rd time it will start and keep started.

As for the tempature readings I will try to replace the thermastat, $10 piece to see if it improves overall temp averages.

Thanks again all for the input!!!
 

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RUNNING HOT WOES

If it were me I would finish up the A.C. install then plumb an extra hose into the ducting and run it under the hood and out in front of the radiator and run the A.C. and that cold air should make it run cooler instead of cooling it in traffic while not moving with that hot air trapped between all the cars.JMO
GREG
 

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Changing your thermostat from a 160º to a 180º will have no effect on "HOW" hot the engine "CAN" get. It will only determine at what temp the stat it self opens at. A 160º stat and a 180º thermostat open the same amount, and thus when open flow the same amount of coolant. As a matter of fact the only real difference between the two different temp stats is the Heat Sensitive wax in side the valve, other than that they are the same.

Roland
 
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