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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I have just fired up my 57 Chev for the first time in a year after doing some work on the motor, cooling and ignition system. The motor is a Gen IV 454 BBC. I have put a Howard performance cam in, Moroso electric water pump, MSD ignition, New aluminum radiator (2 row x 1" cores). Heads have been ported and polished and had 0.060" taken off. I fited a Davies Craig electronic controller for the EWP and Thermofan. Because of this I removed the thermostat as the controller is supposed to control the coolant flow.

My issue is that it overheats really easy. Even sitting at idle once hot it continues to rise.

Fan is spinning the right direction as well as water pump. I have a screen in the top of the radiator but this is clean.

I want to know if anyone has been down this road before with this type of setup and what they did to resolve the issue. I have thoughts that maybe the coolant is not staying in the radiator long enough to cool and that I need to put a thermostat back in and drill some holes in it to allow the EWP to circulate.

I have attached a few images off the radiator and water pump.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Regards Phil
 

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What do you mean by hot, what temp is it at idle.

Have you checked timing? I would put the thermostat back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What do you mean by hot, what temp is it at idle.

Have you checked timing? I would put the thermostat back in.
The temp is getting up to 230 degrees F before I shut it down. Once it starts going up, it continues to climb even at idle. If I shut the engine off, the controller keeps the EWP and Fan going and you can watch the temp come down.

The timing is 10 BTDC. I think you are correct about getting a thermostat back in.
 

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Could you post a picture from the side , showing the fan position relative to the radiator and any shroud that's installed (or not) ? Fan shrouds can make all the difference . Tell us more about the fan and where it's situated , relative to the radiator . That would help more than the current pictures. Be safe...Bob.
 

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Go With a Mister Gasket Hi Performance Thermostat it already has a hole Drilled. Not Sure about Electric Water Pump I Have always used Stewart Performance Water Pumps. A Shroud Will Help on Direction of air into The Radiator Hope this Helps:anim_25:
 

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Water pump and fan voltage is?
How are they grounded?
 

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those electric water pumps are a race only item. they dont flow enough water for street use. they are more for between round cool downs at the track. put on a good belt driven unit and you should be fine.
 

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I was wondering the same thing about the Moroso water pump, whether it's a drag race item or for street use.

Meziere (sp?) does advertise electric pumps for street use, but I've always been leery of the water pump reliability.

Edit: Had a look at the spec's, it's apparently a 30 gpm or so unit. That should cool at idle, and perhaps some street applications. There are bigger ones out there in other brands, about 55 gpm, which should handle just about anything. For a while.
 

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You may also have air pockets trapped in the block. When you refill the block fill through the thermostat hole in the manifold, then install the T-stat and housing. You could also fill through the radiator with the T-stat and housing removed. This will allow the air to purge through the T-stat opening. Some say this will correct it's self after a few heat up cool down cycles. I prefer to correct it ASAP. If you have a coolant recovery tank keep an eye on the level, the engine will pull coolant from the tank as needed.

Don
 

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those electric water pumps are a race only item. they dont flow enough water for street use. they are more for between round cool downs at the track. put on a good belt driven unit and you should be fine.
I tend to agree.I've always been told to run a mechanical pump on the street.
 

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It's true what has been said about electric pumps for drag racing. Check the polarity on the pump just to make sure it's spinning in the right direction. Still, it shouldn't run 220 while idling. The thermostat is not your problem unless it's frozen shut.
 

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I know you stated that the fan is turning in the right
direction,but was wondering if you're thinking that the
fan should be "pushing" air?

Your electric fan should be "pulling" air when mounted
inboard on the radiator.:anim_25:

:bowtieb::bowtier::bowtieb::bowtier::bowtieb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Could you post a picture from the side , showing the fan position relative to the radiator and any shroud that's installed (or not) ? Fan shrouds can make all the difference . Tell us more about the fan and where it's situated , relative to the radiator . That would help more than the current pictures. Be safe...Bob.
:a_a: Bob, I have attached an image of the radiator and fan. It has a factory fitted shroud with a 16" fan putting out 2450cfm.

Regards Phil
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I know you stated that the fan is turning in the right
direction,but was wondering if you're thinking that the
fan should be "pushing" air?

Your electric fan should be "pulling" air when mounted
inboard on the radiator.:anim_25:

:bowtieb::bowtier::bowtieb::bowtier::bowtieb:
:a_a: No, it is pulling the air through the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I was wondering the same thing about the Moroso water pump, whether it's a drag race item or for street use.

Meziere (sp?) does advertise electric pumps for street use, but I've always been leery of the water pump reliability.

Edit: Had a look at the spec's, it's apparently a 30 gpm or so unit. That should cool at idle, and perhaps some street applications. There are bigger ones out there in other brands, about 55 gpm, which should handle just about anything. For a while.
:a_a: Yes, I ordered the radiator from the US. When fitted I went to bolt on my original long mechanical water pump but it wouldn't because of the thermo fan that came witht he radiator. That is why I went for an electric water pump.

I was wondering how much shorter the short water pump is. Maybe that would fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
watch this video on the short vs long pump.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdsWy6tgS5A


Don
:a_a: Thanks Don. I am back home now and watched the video. Answered the question just fine. I have a few things to try thanks to everyones input. If none of that works I will look at putting a short water pump on. Might have to move the radiator a bit forward though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just an update. I installed a 180 degree thermostat, reset all the rockers and set timing to 10 DBTDC. It now maintains good temp at idle but still gets hot after only a short run. I am afraid I am going to have to put my overheating issue on hold as I have bigger dramas. Engine is knocking quite bad when it warms up.

I am back on site now so will have to test it more when I return in a weeks time
 

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Make sure the suction side of the water pump hose is not collapsing on itself. That happened to me once upon a time, the inner wire was gone and it would flow at idle but close down when running fast.
 
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