Chevy Tri Five Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a problem with my LS1 being just a few mm away from the body.
I am afraid it will rub against the body when I start it up for the first time and chip the paint off.

I can grind off the rear corner of both heads of the LS motor to fix it but I came to think of is it possible to move the body just 5-10mm rearwards by loosening the body bolts ? I don't think I need more than that.

I cannot move the engine forwards because it will hit my rack and pinion steering or else I would have modified the engine mounts.


:bowtieb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35,565 Posts
My thought is 5mm maybe but 10mm maybe not.

One thing that's affected that you should think about the consequences of is the steering gear/steering column. With a stock box the input shaft goes all the way to the steering wheel. You can't put a bending load on this, which would happen if you move the body back far enough. Similar for a power steering box/column except that the shaft isn't continuous - but to work right it all needs to be in a straight line. With rack and pinion the straight line requirement isn't an issue, but it could move one of the steering shaft pieces closer to the exhaust or some other obstacle.

The other thing you can do is hammer the firewall where it's close, it's probably not a large area. You might have to touch up the paint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
946 Posts
If the steering becomes a serious issue, this is how the problem was solved on my '36 roadster with Mustg rack and pinion steering.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
My thought is 5mm maybe but 10mm maybe not.

One thing that's affected that you should think about the consequences of is the steering gear/steering column. With a stock box the input shaft goes all the way to the steering wheel. You can't put a bending load on this, which would happen if you move the body back far enough. Similar for a power steering box/column except that the shaft isn't continuous - but to work right it all needs to be in a straight line. With rack and pinion the straight line requirement isn't an issue, but it could move one of the steering shaft pieces closer to the exhaust or some other obstacle.

The other thing you can do is hammer the firewall where it's close, it's probably not a large area. You might have to touch up the paint.
The current paint is not an issue, I will paint the firewall later before I put the engine in.
But how do I hammer it ? Do I use a torch and heat the area up and then try to gently hammer it in ? Should I use a dolly between the hammer and the FW to try to make a gentle bump?

:bowtieb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
If the steering becomes a serious issue, this is how the problem was solved on my '36 roadster with Mustg rack and pinion steering.
I don't think the steering will be an issue. I have a little bit of clearance to the headers.

:bowtieb:
 

·
Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
Joined
·
25,985 Posts
The current paint is not an issue, I will paint the firewall later before I put the engine in.
But how do I hammer it ? Do I use a torch and heat the area up and then try to gently hammer it in ? Should I use a dolly between the hammer and the FW to try to make a gentle bump?

:bowtieb:
If you can weld on firewall you could use a dent puller slide hammer on the inside, to pull a dent in. Drill a small hole, put a large cupped washer on the engine side and a slide hammer on the inside.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
669 Posts
thought i had seen a post on here sometime suggesting getting a large trailer hitch ball maybe attaching pipe or something to it so the rounded ball would make a little smother indention on the firewall then maybe also take a little off the back of the heads at the contact point just a thought
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,468 Posts
thought i had seen a post on here sometime suggesting getting a large trailer hitch ball maybe attaching pipe or something to it so the rounded ball would make a little smother indention on the firewall then maybe also take a little off the back of the heads at the contact point just a thought
That would be mine I believe. I took a trailer ball, slipped the stud on it up into about a 1" rigid wall pipe, and welded the snot out of it onto the backside of the ball. Then placed ball up against the firewall, and beat the heck out of it on the pipe end with a heavy single jack hammer.

This was to get head clearance for a BB. Sounds like the OP only needs a little bit more room so he might not need to employ such brutal tactics to get his LS to fit. The trailer ball technique might still work with some finesse instead of brute force. BB's need so much more room that that you have to not only dent, but stretch the metal almost to the breaking point. It takes a brute to do it, and I grew out of that long ago.

A MUCH cleaner and better way to do it is to buy, cut, and weld in a pocket recess kit that are available out there now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
669 Posts
good glad i didn't imagine that I wouldn't think he needs a lot judging from mine which is 3/4" forward i've got about 1/2-3/4 at the closes point between heads & firewall I didn't remember you having to go caveman though but again i don't remember having to either way back also doing BB that's been quite awhile
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,117 Posts
Remember, you can push the entire body back a little on the frame. Hopefully you're in the construction phase. Just loosen all your body bolts and give it a shove. Make sure all your rubber mounts are still in a proper position and the body is square on the frame and re-tighten. You'd be surprised how much you can get
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,173 Posts
Remember, you can push the entire body back a little on the frame. Hopefully you're in the construction phase. Just loosen all your body bolts and give it a shove. Make sure all your rubber mounts are still in a proper position and the body is square on the frame and re-tighten. You'd be surprised how much you can get
I think you will be surprised how little you get. In addition to the many issues others pointed out bumpers will an issue since they also attach to the frame.

Best is to move the engine or modify the firewall with a body hammer and dolly. That is all my BBC required.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Engine too close to firewall

Thank you all for your feedback, seems that hammer and dolly are my best options here.:)

:bowtieb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
397 Posts
Have you considered moving the engine and transmission forward?
Of course this would require modified mounts for both engine and transmission and possibly a longer yolk
Just a thought
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Engine mounts

Have you considered moving the engine and transmission forward?
Of course this would require modified mounts for both engine and transmission and possibly a longer yolk
Just a thought
Yes I have considered this, but the oil pan will crash into the tubular bar for my rack and pinion so no luck there.
Will probably make a small dent in the firewall and round the back of the heads a little bit.

:bowtieb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,415 Posts
Remember, you can push the entire body back a little on the frame. Hopefully you're in the construction phase. Just loosen all your body bolts and give it a shove. Make sure all your rubber mounts are still in a proper position and the body is square on the frame and re-tighten. You'd be surprised how much you can get
I agree. There is more wiggle room there than you'd think.
 

·
LS Tech and Moderator
Joined
·
10,470 Posts
Is it the actual head close to the firewall or the coil packs?
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top