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Hi, I'm getting to the point where I'm going to expose a lot of bare metal but I'm a long way away from base & clear. I plan to shoot everything in epoxy primer, but want to be sure I'm not setting myself up for delamination when I put the color on.

Is it completely okay to shoot epoxy primer over bare metal months before high-build primer or base & clear? I assume I'll have to scuff the primer to give the new coatings some teeth...but is there anything else I have to consider?

Thanks!

Jay
 

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I would consider shooting one coat of high build primer over the epoxy right away, within the re-coat window for the product you're using. That will save you the expense and work of having to scuff and shoot the epoxy again. I wish I'd done that, imo.
 

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Primers

I would recomend that you go to EverCLears 's web page.

I have used "Feater Fill" primers for years, metal and fibreglass.

Is not an epoxy. But they are two part primers. You would need
to read their data sheets to pick one that fits your needs.

Some can be applied over bare metal, some can be applied over
media blasted metal, some not.

The great thing is that this primer can "Sit" for longer periods than
some primers before the color coats. It is also great sealer..

You can clean the pimers sanding dust with Acetone.

I've never had a problem with color paint lift, sealing,
adhesion, and on some of the Vettes - The body mod's
and repairs took up to a year.

However, I would read the spec's sheets. If you thing you
might prefer this primer, get a Quart set and try it out.

Be sure to use the recomended orifice, larger than
most primers.

http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=70


Good Luck

Michael............
 

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Looks like that Featherfill is about the same as their SlickSand. Both are basically sprayable polyester fillers, like thinned bondo. I personally wouldn't put a polyester sprayable product directly over a whole body in bare metal, but I'm sure some people have done it. I used PPG DPLF followed by SlickSand on my frame and places on my body.
 

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DPLF here.
U may also use some self etch primer, but ONLY on bare metal....
 

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Slick Sand or Featherfill are polyester resin products, just like body filler, as already described. All of those things are rather porous, and that means if the metal has only the polester primer or filler, and it gets wet or damp - rust can start and you'll never know the difference until it's WAY too late. Lacquer primer surfacer does the same thing.

So you need to seal up any of the above with something like epoxy primer or real paint, both of which are moisture barriers. Or you can apply those products over the epoxy primer.

If you have the time and materials, spraying a 2k primer surfacer over epoxy right away makes sense if you're eventually going to use it anyway. Another thing, epoxy primer, if exposed to sunlight, will chalk up because it has no UV inhibitor.

The above comments are based on PPG epoxy primer.
 

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How about HOK....DIRECT TO METAL PRIMER KD2000 & KDA2000?
 

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Epoxy primer now is better than none. Even if you don't shoot filler primer over it right away. Either way, your going to be scuffing, sanding one of them. But, if you have any filler (bondo) work to do, you're better off just shooting the epoxy since fillers aren't recommended over filler primer. This is the route I took (in MN like you with a non heated garage for it to sit till spring). This year I finished the bodywork and painted. So far so good.
 

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One of my best friends has been a painter for many years and does a lot of custom paint. His advice to me was unless the bare metal is just very small sand through spots . Epoxy primer will not hold on large areas you have to use self etching primer on larger bare metal areas. Don
 

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mrwrenchman, I think a lot of folks would differ with that opinion. In other words they will say epoxy will get you better adhesion on clean white metal than etch primer will.

But I will say this, if you are truly convinced that something won't work, you probably shouldn't try it, it won't for you.

And on the flip side, you have a much better chance of success with something you're used to and believe in.
 

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Must paint companies reccommend epoxy before bodywork to seal the metal,then sand any bodywork areas with 80grit and apply bondo.Sand all your bodywork then reseal with epoxy then top that with your highbuild primer.
 

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paint/body work

Very important to wash car down and degrease before you start any sanding no matter which way you decide to go with your primer--especially if its going to sit around for awhile. I learned the hard way that contaminating the paint underneath is easy to do with sandpaper if you don't. JIM.
 

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I've been using ppg Omni system. Their epoxy primer (MP170) says if you don't spray something on it within 3 days, you have to scuff sand and reshoot the primer. Their primer-surfacer does not say this, maybe you could shoot the epoxy then the surfacer, but like someone said, primers alone don't protect forever.
 
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