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1956 Belair Sedan, Resto-Mod, Many Upgrades
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Yes, I have a Ford solenoid on my car due to slow cranking...no headers, stock rams heads, but it still turns over slow like a dead battery! Do you have to ground the solenoid as well. I thought that being held onto the firewall with screws should suffice...but I am still turning over slowly when warmed up. 350 SBC timing is set at 10 BTC and vacuum advance direct off the manifold. Running temp 190...

My car has Frame to Body, Engine from Body, at trunk mounted battery...its grounded to frame and body

Thanks in advance any suggestions on this issue.
 

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What is the cable size you are running from back to front? I usually run at least 0 gauge cables to keep voltage drop to a minimum. Do the cables get warm while cranking?
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I bought the kit that Sumitt Racing sells...I am thinking its Number 1 or Zero...pretty big cable. All my grounds are #4 Cable, except for the Vintage Air ground wires of course...

I thought I read somewhere where the solenoid needs to be grounded as well, but don't remember what forum I read that on.
 

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Measure the voltage drop across the cables, and make sure your grounds are clean and tight. Remember that the same current going through the positive cable has to run through the ground cable too, if your ground is smaller than the positive it could be your problem.

Solenoid is most likely not your problem, unless the contacts inside are weak in which case it is not a grounding issue.
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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My car has Frame to Body, Engine from Body, at trunk mounted battery...its grounded to frame and body
I would ground the Engine to Frame and Body to Frame. You can make better connections to the frame than the sheet metal of the body for the high current of the starter. That's why they changed the battery connection of the battery from the body to the frame in 57. As mentioned, verify the connections.
Mounting the solenoid to the sheet metal will ground it sufficiently. The solenoid draws very little current.
 

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Cleanliness is next to impossible.

but I am still turning over slowly when warmed up.

My car has Frame to Body, Engine from Body, at trunk mounted battery...its grounded to frame and body
With a trunk mounted battery we were good to go for about four years, with the same setup as you describe. Then the car started intermittently cranking slow when hot.

We removed, wire brushed, and reconnected both ends of the battery cable and both ends of every ground cable. Fixed it. :anim_25:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Am chasing an elusive problem...took all the grounds and cleaned them up with wire brush (for cleaning heads) on a drill...reconnected them. Changed the ground to be Chassis to Engine, Body to Chassis, at Battery...direct ground to Chassis and Body, checked the positive cable for any sign of corrosion, re-installed it after cleaning it to be sure...cranked it up let her warm up, drove it a little, put back in garage...let it set for 4 to 5 minutes...same slow turn over! I probably have one of those lazy starters? Tonto...Kemasabe is out of bullets!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
May have to try that next...heavy ground strap to frame from engine (one of the bolts on the starter) What a PITA...
 

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The starter?

Rod, just wondering how old the starter is, and you might want to have it checked, it might have bearings or bushings that are getting worn.
It would be a good time to clean and undercut the commutator and replace the brushes also.
I just finished installing my starter last night, I replaced the solenoid after it "clicked" on me last week when I was out for a spin.
It sounds like you might be using a different style starter than I am, using the remote solenoid, but I would still check the starter.
:anim_25: with the project, sounds like you've got all the grounds taken care of.
Later,:burnout:
Jim
 

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If it does this when the engine is heat saturated back your timing down about two deg. Or at least check your timing to see if is advanced a little too much.
It may be set where it runs good but maybe the engine doesn't like it.
Just throwing this out there as a possibility.

Don
 

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If the solenoid engages, it is grounded OK. Usually, if the starter turns the solenoid is OK. The high current draw of the starter in most cases burn off a little corrosion. I have heard that some newer starters are prone to heat soak issues. As said, clean all grounds and connections. Make sure that the main cables + and - are large enough. I have the negative battery wire going directly to my engine block and then from the block to the frame and body metal. Also, try an insulating wrap for the starter to keep the heat out. :anim_25: :flag6:
 

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1956 chevy 210 del rey sedan
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everything you have told us so far sounds to me like your new starter is a POS it is heat soaking and then takes too much power to turn the engine. ditch the starter you have and the ford solenoid. get a gm permanent magnet starter from napa part number 4n-5110 and be done with it. these have never fail on me.
 

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All the Ford solenoid mod does is bypass the voltage drop thru ignition switch/NSS circuit by applying juice from the battery post of the starter solenoid to the solenoid plunger. It self grounds but if it is installed onto your inner fender you may not have a good connection due to paint, ect. I would connect my battery ground straight to the engine block & then route body & chassis grounds from there.Esp. w/a trunk mounted battery you don't need to lose any current to a poor connection.The Ford solenoid is simply a relay, it won't increase cranking speed. Battery strength, cables,starter condition determine that.
 
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