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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had my 55 2 months and just finished replacing the floor pans.My next project is to repair the firewall.One of the previous owners used a hammer to beat back the firewall in the master cylinder area and the area under the battery on the passenger side.Any suggestions on repairing/replacing the hammered areas? :confused:
 

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Red, I would get some good pic's of the stock firewall, tape copies on the area away from the damage, yet still in sight and start working it back out. You will probably find the metal has a little memory and as you work it, it will want to go back from where it came. I know that sounds strange, but I have seen happen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've been trying to hammer the firewall back to it's stock position with some success but I feel that I will have to use body filler to smooth it out.The vertical line beneath the resistor by the master cylinder has been hammered back about 1 to 2 inches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Owe,I'm learning TriFives too.The smooth firewall from dp chevy is an option I'll keep in mind.Thanks
 

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if you have an oxy/acetelene torch you can warm it up then have a friend hold the dolly while you tap on it gently to make it conform to how ever you want. just my .02 cents
 

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I've been trying to hammer the firewall back to it's stock position with some success but I feel that I will have to use body filler to smooth it out.The vertical line beneath the resistor by the master cylinder has been hammered back about 1 to 2 inches.
Hi Red 55
Sorry I did not see this post sooner, One to two inches is quite a bit of fill in even on a fire wall. Sometimes when there is a lot of damage it is easier to find a another part that you can cut out and replace the damage area. Now at an inch that tell me there is still a lot of repair you can still work out . Now in the brake area there are a few detentes or metal stiffeners. If the damage is in that area it should actually be easier to work back out use that to your advantage. Don't give in to it by using to much filler, remember the metal dose not know that your not an expert (yet) :) It would be great to See actual photo's of the area to asses. If I have to work on a panel alone that requires something behind I try to take advantage of somthing to bolt to likr the master cyl area has a great area to bolt to and if you want make a cheap wooden buck that simulates what the end product is to look like.
Now a cheap buck can be made quicklyy out of wood and bondo . First find a firewal that has no damage and an owner that is kind enough to let you take a quick mold. Take some shrink wrap, a piece of plywood precut to the correct size with the bolt holes already drilled in, an a can of (((BONDO))))
Hopefully the firewall you find to mold from is in a car being worked on and nothing is in the way . :) Now adheaer the shrink wrap to the inside of the firewall with a very lite coat of sticky and smooth it out the best you can.
now poke holes threw were the bolts will go threw and tape the outside so the bondo dose not seep threw and make more clean up. now that that is ready double check fit of plywood and trial fit and get bondo ready. Now let correct one thing here when you go to buy bondo ask for duroglass .....it is great for beating on and takes more abuse than bondo. Now mix er up some smuch and smear some on and try to make it so you cant tell there are any detentes this way the plywood will sit flat and stick nice to the glass, dont forget to rough up the one side of the plywood to promote adhesion. Give it good coat and while it is still remember to make it as smooth as possible. now let it tack up and get to a skin texture and grade it off with a cheeze grader and apply another good coat and apply your plywood. Do not tighten bolts down to tight just enough to see it ooz out the sides. wait an hour or two after you get back from lunch with the owner of the car :D it shuold be ready to remove. now you have a great hammer buck to use as a guide and bolt on your firewall. Oh and if its in an area that has no holes DRILL some its worth the time. :)
 

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Had to rest my fingers .... If the area is real bad you can use your new buck to make an identical panel to replace it with. Just a thought!!!
You had to rest your fingers, I had to stop reading and rest my brain a couple of times while I was reading that:D . Lot of good information there Steve, we can tell you're a professional. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Thanks Prostreet for the reply.There's a lot of good info there.I appreciate you taking the time to explain how to make a buck to form the sheet metal.Here's a couple of pics but they don't really have a lot of depth perception.The detente under the resister is hammered back 1 to 2 inches.You may be able to tell where I have tried to rework it some.Thanks MikeKy55 for the ebay link on the firewall.That's a really good option.The other pic is under the battery tray.Next step is pull the motor and get this mess "straightened" out
 

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Hi Red
Wow that's got a scratch :eek: Now that damage is for the seasoned metal finisher. Not that it cant be done but if there is a replacement part to be had I would rather walk you threw a perfect install than to put you threw the tedious hammering it would take to bring it close to even except a hammer form.
The area in question looks fatigued all ready, so going out beyond the area would be ideal.
Repairs like these in time with experience will help you decide early on which way would net the best results repair or replace. Some adapt to the repair side better than the replace in there finishing skills. I have to admit I like to take both sometime repair the damage to stress relieve the surrounding areas and then replace which tend to go easier than if you just cut the damage out and the area around still has stress which can play havoc as you begin to weld you new part in place. :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yea it's ugly,It hurts every time I look at it.Thanks prostreet.I'm gonna take yours and MikeKY55's advice and go with donor sheetmetal.My welding skills aren't that great but I feel like the results would be better than whats there now.I'll keep you posted:D
 

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Firewall repair.

It's obvious someone had a big block in your car at one time and used a F**d wrench-BFH to massage the firewall for clearence. It does'nt look too bad under the battery and that area could be smoothed out with more delicate hammering and filling. The area by the master cylinder is another story, especially where the clutch rod goes through. Still, I'd repair that area also with more hammering and filling and only weld in a repair section in the area of the clutch rod. I'd basically keep both areas the way they are, just clean them up. That way you're already clearenced for a big block should you decide to go that route in the future. Don't you just love the way some folks do their modifications and repair work? What other surprises are you in for?
Good luck. Butch.
 
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