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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I have a floor question for the experts that have done a few.
I have a 57 2 door sedan.
I’m installing a one piece floor from the toe board to the trunk & have noticed at the trunk end, the floor is touching the frame in a few places & is also touching the rear leaf spring brackets.
I’ll try to attach a few photos to show the areas.
Is this normal, there are not any other body mounts in the trunk area to hold it up off the frame.
Also with shimming, the floor appears to be sitting nice & level without any gaps on most body mounts apart from the #2 passenger side mount.
Should I install shims to take up this gap or just bolt it up tight(It moves the floor up off #3 inner mount when I force the floor down on #2 mount).
Thanks in advance.
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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The mounts should hold the floor off the frame and shackle hangers. The tail pan brace should provide a clearance. The floor could have been bent in shipment.
You can flex the floor to fit the mounts, then fasten the body with door gaps set.
 

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Stainless Trim Restoration
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In the trunk area, the fit of the floor laying flat will look that way. When you go to attach the sides to the floor you will find that the floor will be lifted in some areas so that the stamping of the side wall matches the stamping of the floor flange lip where they are welded.

Even on original floors there were a few places the floor lays on the frame. The factory placed a flat 1/4 inch thick rubber strip in these places. Most bodies use 2 but wagons used 4.

Mikey
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys, that’s what I’m after.
Mikey your explanation makes sense. I’ll look to see when I lower the body over the floor & hopefully it will need adjusting where the 2 meet, to lift it off the frame.
I did see somewhere in one of my manuals information in regards to a few parts of the frame where rubber is laid, but could not find it yesterday. A few strips of rubber came in the mounting kit too.
As for shimming, do you do this after the body is welded to the floor to achieve door gaps or before the body is welded to the floor where mounts don’t quite meet the floor?
 

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Stainless Trim Restoration
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Shimming needs to be done AFTER the floor and body are as one. Bolt the new floor down to the frame loosly so all mounts are making contact. This is the best. If you know there are other body issues, and/or frame issues than you may need to resolve those first. Other wise proceed.

The body was set on the frame after all the glass, trim and complete interior was installed by Fisher Body. Doors and trunk lid included. Then the body was sent to the final assembly plant where it was matched to the frame. At that point shimming was done. Mostly so that the body sat on the frame as it was and any gaps between the frame and mounts were filled with shims. Not much needed to be done otherwise on sedans. Hardtops and convertibles are a different process.

Mikey
 

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Do you, or anyone, know how thick these are?

These did not come in my new bodymount kit.

If all goes well I'll be test fitting trunk tomorrow.
Even on original floors there were a few places the floor lays on the frame. The factory placed a flat 1/4 inch thick rubber strip in these places. Most bodies use 2 but wagons used 4.

Mikey
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys, that’s a huge help.
Those spots where the rubber is shown is exactly where my floor is touching & needs lifting.
I love this site, so many awesome people with tonnes of knowledge.
 

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In your first post, 3rd picture, it looks like the rubber bushings need to be replaced first.:anim_25:
 
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