Watched Horsepower TV over the weekend and what do I see? It's exactly the same scenario as what I'm trying to build. I'm building a 454 with a B&M Megablower to plug into my 55 too. One of the topics of the show is to replace the frame of the 55 due to stress cracking. Have any of you guys experienced this? I don't want to go through the efforts of completing my build and having to deal with the frame cracking. Is there any mods I can do while everything is apart or would it be better to stub in a different front frame such as one from a 70's camaro? Any advice is certainly appreciated.
Frame Issues
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Do you now have a stress crack in the frame? or are you concerned about after you add the big block. I saw the episode and heard them mention it was a common problem when adding a large power plant. I was surprised, because I don't recall anyone on this site mentioning that. My own '57 have had big blocks with a stock frame since the 70's, and the only drawback has been massive fuel consumption 
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A stress crack is sure something to be concerned with. I also have never heard that this is a "common" problem, problem maybe, common ??
Now with that said I just finished a Model A Build, car was put onto a stock set of 32 Ford frame rails. Car had a Blown 502 and a 4 speed. I took those 32 ford rails and had them magged after all they are 78 years old. They checked good but I boxed them just the same. Better safe than sorry. Your 55 frame is 55 Years old thats a pretty good amount of time. I know I'm over 55 years old and I have plenty of stress cracks. But your donor car would be a 70's Camaro ( your choice) and they are up to 40 years old. Thats plenty of time for a few cracks to have been aquired.
So there is no certain deal here. Maybe you could consider Boxing the 55 frame in a few critical areas if you are concerned about this......
Roland
Now with that said I just finished a Model A Build, car was put onto a stock set of 32 Ford frame rails. Car had a Blown 502 and a 4 speed. I took those 32 ford rails and had them magged after all they are 78 years old. They checked good but I boxed them just the same. Better safe than sorry. Your 55 frame is 55 Years old thats a pretty good amount of time. I know I'm over 55 years old and I have plenty of stress cracks. But your donor car would be a 70's Camaro ( your choice) and they are up to 40 years old. Thats plenty of time for a few cracks to have been aquired.
So there is no certain deal here. Maybe you could consider Boxing the 55 frame in a few critical areas if you are concerned about this......
Roland
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Sounds like much tado over nothing.
Maybe a rational for spending a bunch of money on a really spiffy frame, but I don't recall it being a topic of discussion.
exploded bell housings, yes, twisted U joints, drive shafts, yes. torn motor mounts, yes. All rotational .
I would think stress cracked frames would be an issue with rock crawlers, not big blocks.
It looked like the cracks were forming where the frame "splits" at the a-arm. I have actually considered welding a 16 ga. plate over the open area just for asthetic reasons, but now I'm wondering if it might be a good idea to insure the frame doesn't start "tweaking" and eventually crack. What really got my attention was the fact that it was running the exact same combo that I'm building right now--same engine and even the same blower. I might be being too overcautious. I mean, the guy is swapping out his combo for a twin turbo on a 580 cid. engine. He was probably running this thing hard at the track alot.
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A bud and slammed together a 350 and shoe horned it into Vega with a muncie and a narrowed ford 9 inch - we learned real quick we forgot something when the first time we banged second the thing twisted so much it blew all the glass out. (oh thats what that kit with the bix x member was for....)
The 55-7 chev pass frame is pretty solid though. I have seen some serious ponies thrown at em... stress cracking is more a product of age.
The 55-7 chev pass frame is pretty solid though. I have seen some serious ponies thrown at em... stress cracking is more a product of age.
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If your going to run the car at 125 to 130+ stop the car at those speeds slam the wheels on the ground its going to stress crack the frame, at the lower A frame mounting bolt area and the upper A frame mount point if the car is fully roll caged with down tubes to the front frame sections it still does it, plate those areas up its happened on cars i have had. I go that fast if your going to street ride forget it.
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You answered your own question... in that scenario you are asking a lot from 50+ years old metal and welds so may be better off stubbing or even better sectioning in a stronger front.
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This topic came up on another website but I think the consensus was very little of the "Stress Crack" issue had been observed by the respondents. I for one have reviewed more tri-five chassis than I can count and NEVER found one to display the condition. Others that answered seemed to follow suit. Now don't get me wrong, I am certain some have seen the condition however I just don't think it is as prevalent as those on TV selling an aftermarket chassis may elude to. Some however may in their efforts attempt to push statistics to make their case. Just remember, in 1955 alone, over 1.7 million of these cars were produced so any claims of having observed a quantity of these, say 10 – well that’s only .00058% so don’t run and find a cliff to jump off of.
I would however be remiss if I didn’t at least say this; If you have the funds and an aftermarket chassis is in your plan, then by all means become educated prior to purchasing. Some out there lay claims of being the strongest on the planet. Some are crafted from 2x4 rectangular tubing. Some use a mandrel bender. Some don’t. Some use very sophisticated CAD software and FMEA in the design process.
If you can, take time to visit your supplier/s in person. Tour their shops. Speak with them at length regardless of perceived quality. Talk to owners of the product you are considering. Within these walls lie many satisfied customers of multiple suppliers.
As others will tell you – DO YOUR HOMEWORK.
I would however be remiss if I didn’t at least say this; If you have the funds and an aftermarket chassis is in your plan, then by all means become educated prior to purchasing. Some out there lay claims of being the strongest on the planet. Some are crafted from 2x4 rectangular tubing. Some use a mandrel bender. Some don’t. Some use very sophisticated CAD software and FMEA in the design process.
If you can, take time to visit your supplier/s in person. Tour their shops. Speak with them at length regardless of perceived quality. Talk to owners of the product you are considering. Within these walls lie many satisfied customers of multiple suppliers.
As others will tell you – DO YOUR HOMEWORK.
I reviewed that segment on horsepower over and over . maybe 12 times, looking @ the "stress cracks" and it was obviously from some poorly repaired collision work . you can clearly see the wrinkles from where the frame had been previously bent. In my day we have run 1100 hp nitrous big blocks with lencos in these cars and run some as fast as 8.35 in the 1/4 mile. never saw stress cracks. the whole premise behind this show was to spend your money. I think you will be fine with your stock frame, however extra bracing or gusseting never hurts. JMO arty0031:arty0031:arty0031:
arty0031:arty0031:arty0031:
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