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*Front end A-arms

9083 Views 65 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  DJ's 57, 
mars57
Good morning to all. I have a question, has anyone worked with Ridetech Suspension? I am looking at their strong arm tubular control arms. Any good or bad reviews? Thanks.
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mars57 said:
Good morning to all. I have a question, has anyone worked with Ridetech Suspension? I am looking at their strong arm tubular control arms. Any good or bad reviews? Thanks.
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I'm curious what the reasoning for wanting them is?
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mars57
Tony, thanks for responding. There is no particular reason for wanting the strong arms tubular control arms from RideTech, other than to get a heads up on this product. There are lots of tubular control arms out there, e.g., CPP (with their ?able ball joints; Heidts ( very pricey) ; Global West, Ridetech, and of course, the $199 ones from e-bay, that are offered to us Tri-Fivers that want to improve the front end suspension on our cars. I hope I have answered your question, not knowing if if you are curious about why I want Ridetech a-arms, or why I want tubular a-arms. Are you familiar with RideTech Suspension? Have you done any changes to your 55 BA"s suspension?
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Greg's 56 Nomad
I don't have any experience with them. I do know that there are a few people here on the site that have installed the complete StreetGrip suspension system on their cars and they say it was one of the best purchases they've made.
I do believe Ridtech makes high-quality parts. If tubular control arms are something that I wanted I would have no problems ordering a set from Ridetech.
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mars57
Thanks Greg' 56. I've looked at the Streetgrip suspension, but that is not what I have in mind. I'm looking at the tubular arms, Heidts 2' drop spindle and the ECI large disc brake brake kit for now. My 57 BA has power steering and power brakes already. This would be an upgrade. Thanks for your input.
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mars57 said:
Tony, thanks for responding. There is no particular reason for wanting the strong arms tubular control arms from RideTech, other than to get a heads up on this product. There are lots of tubular control arms out there, e.g., CPP (with their ?able ball joints; Heidts ( very pricey) ; Global West, Ridetech, and of course, the $199 ones from e-bay, that are offered to us Tri-Fivers that want to improve the front end suspension on our cars. I hope I have answered your question, not knowing if if you are curious about why I want Ridetech a-arms, or why I want tubular a-arms. Are you familiar with RideTech Suspension? Have you done any changes to your 55 BA"s suspension?
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I'm curious about why tubular? I don't know of anything they can do that the inexpensive factory looking +5 caster ones won't do? But I don't claim to be a suspension expert. With those +5 arms I added a lot of caster to mine and a .9" taller upper ball joint that changes the geometry in a great way that I don't quite understand, but I know it works! With those two simple things, well and of course an anti sway bar, it handles great. Now if you are getting into the coilovers and that stuff, well that's out of my pay grade and knowledge.
I just took a look, and if these are what you are looking at, I'm shocked that they are not adjustable. I don't see how they would improve handling at all?

Ridetech 11013699: StrongArms Front Upper Control Arms 1955-1957 Chevy Tri-Five Car - JEGS High Performance

Buy Ridetech 11013699 at JEGS: Ridetech StrongArms Front Upper Control Arms 1955-1957 Chevy Tri-Five Car. Guaranteed lowest price!
www.jegs.com www.jegs.com
Do they do anything more than these? Or even as much as these?
www.summitracing.com

Classic Performance 5557SCA-U5 Classic Performance Stock-Type Control Arms | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Classic Performance Stock-Type Control Arms with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Control Arms at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com
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mars57
No, I am not doing the coilovers and I am not that knowledgeable on this sort of things. I joined this forum to learn of my 57 and I am being taught, that is for sure. I don't know that I qualify in answering your question of which one does more than the other ( tubular vs stamped ). The ridetech control arms (from Ridetech ) come complete with cross shafts, new bushings, ready for installation, while the Jegs,(from ridetech) don't include the cross shafts, but uses the factory cross shaft. I will call them tomorrow ( after golf ) to ask them about this and also if I will be able to use the stock shocks and coils with their tubular arms. They have .50 tall ball joints and +5 or +6 caster on their a-arms also. I am sure that the stamped control arms perform just as good.
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Roscoe7
IMHO the stamped arms with the additional caster (they come with cross shafts, ready for installation), taller ball joints, and a sway bar is about the 'best value' arrangement.
www.classicchevy.com

Chevy Upper Control Arms, Positive Caster, Original Style, 1955-1957

Finally! The wait for a stock look upper control arm with positive caster built in is over! Eckler's Classic Chevy brings you a heavy, stamped steel upper A-arm with the ball joint moved to net you 5 degrees of positive caster in your 1955, 1956 or 1957 Chevrolet Bel Air, 150, 210, Nomad or...
www.classicchevy.com www.classicchevy.com

There are plenty of other areas to spend $ on :)
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Old Buzzard
While you are looking at big brakes, take a look at MGchevy Vette brake kit.
Mike has a nice kit for a right price.
13" rotors, hubs, calipers, hardware.
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mars57 said:
No, I am not doing the coilovers and I am not that knowledgeable on this sort of things. I joined this forum to learn of my 57 and I am being taught, that is for sure. I don't know that I qualify in answering your question of which one does more than the other ( tubular vs stamped ). The ridetech control arms (from Ridetech ) come complete with cross shafts, new bushings, ready for installation, while the Jegs,(from ridetech) don't include the cross shafts, but uses the factory cross shaft. I will call them tomorrow ( after golf ) to ask them about this and also if I will be able to use the stock shocks and coils with their tubular arms. They have .50 tall ball joints and +5 or +6 caster on their a-arms also. I am sure that the stamped control arms perform just as good.
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Hey, I am trying to help you out. In the Q & A below they say that they do have the +5 caster and it clearly shows them with cross shafts and bushings. Mine came with them. Just trying to save you hundreds of dollars that's all.
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56ls408
I've installed two sets of the CPP +5* stamped uppers they both greatly improved the handling along with adding a sway bar & for a cruiser they probably are all that's needed, a good set of moog or comparable ball joints should be considered. I'm no expert on front suspension but to me it makes sense that tubular A arms with better quality bushings will likely have less flex under more spirited driving. I used CPP tubular uppers on my 56 one reason was with a 500 steering box the control arm shaft on some aftermarket arms won't clear the box. The CPP with its button style end does. As mentioned many times the ball joints are not quality the boots on mine split within 6 months. The lowers I used the knock off Global West arms from Summit I see absolutely no difference in quality other than the inferior ball joints.My last build a 70 Monte Carlo had full Detroit Speed front suspension (springs not coilovers) and it handled extremely well & that is the main reason I choose to use tubular control arms on the 56. At the time the stamped +5* weren't available or at least I wasn't aware of them.
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mars57
Thanks to all for your input. Alot of info and much appreciated.
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Z
Personally for a street driven car I would stick with a stamped a-arm due to the cyclic and shock loading and possible weld quality issues particularly if made offshore.
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mars57
Zookpr, you and others have told me so. I learned that I cannot use my stock coils and shocks with any of the tubular arms I was looking at. Therefore, this is my next option; 2" drop spindle (Hedits) ECI brake kit, CPP control stamp type a-arms w/taller ball joints on top. I hope this plan works with my stock coils, stock shocks and 15 x 7 rally wheels. I've yet to hear from ECI and CPP. Thanks.
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Roscoe7
mars57 said:
Zookpr, you and others have told me so. I learned that I cannot use my stock coils and shocks with any of the tubular arms I was looking at. Therefore, this is my next option; 2" drop spindle (Hedits) ECI brake kit, CPP control stamp type a-arms w/taller ball joints on top. I hope this plan works with my stock coils, stock shocks and 15 x 7 rally wheels. I've yet to hear from ECI and CPP. Thanks.
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I think that you will be very happy with that arrangement.
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Z
mars57 said:
Zookpr, you and others have told me so. I learned that I cannot use my stock coils and shocks with any of the tubular arms I was looking at. Therefore, this is my next option; 2" drop spindle (Hedits) ECI brake kit, CPP control stamp type a-arms w/taller ball joints on top. I hope this plan works with my stock coils, stock shocks and 15 x 7 rally wheels. I've yet to hear from ECI and CPP. Thanks.
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I'd recommend considering a 15x6 rally for the front.
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mars57
I currently have 15 x 7 wheels with 4.5 backspace on 215/65/15 tires. They clear the fender by about an inch. This was one question I was going to ask ECI but they didn't call back. I am also ready for the Torq Thrust ll wheels with the same size tires I have now (rear 235/ 60/15) on 15 x 8 wheels. I installed the early Gm metric disc brake, power steering, and power booster some years ago and I did notice it made a difference. The turning radius was reduced. I hope with this new setup I am planning on doing that it doesn't widen the track width.
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mars57 said:
Zookpr, you and others have told me so. I learned that I cannot use my stock coils and shocks with any of the tubular arms I was looking at. Therefore, this is my next option; 2" drop spindle (Hedits) ECI brake kit, CPP control stamp type a-arms w/taller ball joints on top. I hope this plan works with my stock coils, stock shocks and 15 x 7 rally wheels. I've yet to hear from ECI and CPP. Thanks.
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Very many people are led to believe that "tubular" control arms are better. Most of them are no better than stock or the stock looking +5 caster arms that cost a lot less, and don't depend on some crappy welds in some of the cheaper tubular ones. There are some tubular arms that are adjustable, now there is an advantage, but not really better than the stamped +5 arms. Guys see them in other cars and think they look cool or make it handle better when they don't. Most don't do any research on the advantages of them, or lack thereof.
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mars57
Thanks Tony. On Post # 14 I wrote that I was thinking more and more to go with the CPP stamped stock style a-arms with Heidts spindle and ECI brake kit. I will call Heidts tomorrow about which brake kit goes with their spindle. Also, there is a possibility that I may go with the uppers only from Ridetech with tall ball joints. I just don't know yet. All of my research consists of reading the posts you all have submitted in this forum. They happen to be very subjective, and I understand that. I will be making a decision soon based on quality of the parts I put on the 57 and performance, again based on what many of you say.
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5
I realized what you said about the upper stamped arms. I was just adding that some people see "tubular" and think they are better. If anyone can tell me what makes them better, I'd love to know! Seriously!
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