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*Front end A-arms

14K views 65 replies 15 participants last post by  DJ's 57 
#1 ·
Good morning to all. I have a question, has anyone worked with Ridetech Suspension? I am looking at their strong arm tubular control arms. Any good or bad reviews? Thanks.
 
#3 ·
Tony, thanks for responding. There is no particular reason for wanting the strong arms tubular control arms from RideTech, other than to get a heads up on this product. There are lots of tubular control arms out there, e.g., CPP (with their ?able ball joints; Heidts ( very pricey) ; Global West, Ridetech, and of course, the $199 ones from e-bay, that are offered to us Tri-Fivers that want to improve the front end suspension on our cars. I hope I have answered your question, not knowing if if you are curious about why I want Ridetech a-arms, or why I want tubular a-arms. Are you familiar with RideTech Suspension? Have you done any changes to your 55 BA"s suspension?
 
#6 · (Edited)
I'm curious about why tubular? I don't know of anything they can do that the inexpensive factory looking +5 caster ones won't do? But I don't claim to be a suspension expert. With those +5 arms I added a lot of caster to mine and a .9" taller upper ball joint that changes the geometry in a great way that I don't quite understand, but I know it works! With those two simple things, well and of course an anti sway bar, it handles great. Now if you are getting into the coilovers and that stuff, well that's out of my pay grade and knowledge.
I just took a look, and if these are what you are looking at, I'm shocked that they are not adjustable. I don't see how they would improve handling at all?
Do they do anything more than these? Or even as much as these?
 
#4 ·
I don't have any experience with them. I do know that there are a few people here on the site that have installed the complete StreetGrip suspension system on their cars and they say it was one of the best purchases they've made.
I do believe Ridtech makes high-quality parts. If tubular control arms are something that I wanted I would have no problems ordering a set from Ridetech.
 
#5 ·
Thanks Greg' 56. I've looked at the Streetgrip suspension, but that is not what I have in mind. I'm looking at the tubular arms, Heidts 2' drop spindle and the ECI large disc brake brake kit for now. My 57 BA has power steering and power brakes already. This would be an upgrade. Thanks for your input.
 
#7 ·
No, I am not doing the coilovers and I am not that knowledgeable on this sort of things. I joined this forum to learn of my 57 and I am being taught, that is for sure. I don't know that I qualify in answering your question of which one does more than the other ( tubular vs stamped ). The ridetech control arms (from Ridetech ) come complete with cross shafts, new bushings, ready for installation, while the Jegs,(from ridetech) don't include the cross shafts, but uses the factory cross shaft. I will call them tomorrow ( after golf ) to ask them about this and also if I will be able to use the stock shocks and coils with their tubular arms. They have .50 tall ball joints and +5 or +6 caster on their a-arms also. I am sure that the stamped control arms perform just as good.
 
#8 ·
IMHO the stamped arms with the additional caster (they come with cross shafts, ready for installation), taller ball joints, and a sway bar is about the 'best value' arrangement.

There are plenty of other areas to spend $ on :)
 
#49 ·
IMHO the stamped arms with the additional caster (they come with cross shafts, ready for installation), taller ball joints, and a sway bar is about the 'best value' arrangement.

There are plenty of other areas to spend $ on :)
Yeah. I bought some Tubular arms from A-Team for my 57 Chevy that were supposed to bolt right in. WRONG. And they will not refund my money. I'm now looking at replacing my control arms with factory arms.
 
#9 ·
While you are looking at big brakes, take a look at MGchevy Vette brake kit.
Mike has a nice kit for a right price.
13" rotors, hubs, calipers, hardware.
 
#11 ·
I've installed two sets of the CPP +5* stamped uppers they both greatly improved the handling along with adding a sway bar & for a cruiser they probably are all that's needed, a good set of moog or comparable ball joints should be considered. I'm no expert on front suspension but to me it makes sense that tubular A arms with better quality bushings will likely have less flex under more spirited driving. I used CPP tubular uppers on my 56 one reason was with a 500 steering box the control arm shaft on some aftermarket arms won't clear the box. The CPP with its button style end does. As mentioned many times the ball joints are not quality the boots on mine split within 6 months. The lowers I used the knock off Global West arms from Summit I see absolutely no difference in quality other than the inferior ball joints.My last build a 70 Monte Carlo had full Detroit Speed front suspension (springs not coilovers) and it handled extremely well & that is the main reason I choose to use tubular control arms on the 56. At the time the stamped +5* weren't available or at least I wasn't aware of them.
 
#14 ·
Zookpr, you and others have told me so. I learned that I cannot use my stock coils and shocks with any of the tubular arms I was looking at. Therefore, this is my next option; 2" drop spindle (Hedits) ECI brake kit, CPP control stamp type a-arms w/taller ball joints on top. I hope this plan works with my stock coils, stock shocks and 15 x 7 rally wheels. I've yet to hear from ECI and CPP. Thanks.
 
#17 ·
I currently have 15 x 7 wheels with 4.5 backspace on 215/65/15 tires. They clear the fender by about an inch. This was one question I was going to ask ECI but they didn't call back. I am also ready for the Torq Thrust ll wheels with the same size tires I have now (rear 235/ 60/15) on 15 x 8 wheels. I installed the early Gm metric disc brake, power steering, and power booster some years ago and I did notice it made a difference. The turning radius was reduced. I hope with this new setup I am planning on doing that it doesn't widen the track width.
 
#24 ·
I currently have 15 x 7 wheels with 4.5 backspace on 215/65/15 tires. They clear the fender by about an inch. I hope with this new setup I am planning on doing that it doesn't widen the track width.
Can't comment on the track width, except to say that I have no clearance issues (Heidts spindles, C5 discs, 18 x 8 wheels, 225/40/18 tires, inner 45 degree fender lip straightened vertical).

The taller ball joints help with clearance as the top of the wheel will pull in under compression (increasing clearance), whereas the original arrangement pulled the wheel out under compression (reducing any clearance).

You can also gain clearance by adding a bit of -ve camber. It is surprising how much difference a little -ve camber makes.
 
#19 ·
Thanks Tony. On Post # 14 I wrote that I was thinking more and more to go with the CPP stamped stock style a-arms with Heidts spindle and ECI brake kit. I will call Heidts tomorrow about which brake kit goes with their spindle. Also, there is a possibility that I may go with the uppers only from Ridetech with tall ball joints. I just don't know yet. All of my research consists of reading the posts you all have submitted in this forum. They happen to be very subjective, and I understand that. I will be making a decision soon based on quality of the parts I put on the 57 and performance, again based on what many of you say.
 
#22 ·
I put the tubular arms on mine with Viking coil overs. The only reason I did make the change was to upgrade the A-arms (bushings corrosion, and worn ball joints) as a set and not mix and match old and new components. I had absolutely no expectations of improved performance, just an upgrade for me. I put A-arms, sway bar, and coil overs on all at once. The reason for the Viking coil overs specifically was that I could set the compression and rebound to my liking and be able to adjust as I like, again not a performance direction although it did help dramatically and is what I wanted and I have no regrets.
Had the system on for 7 years now and absolutely not looking back or regretting the choice I made.
My suggestion to you would be to make your own choice, listen and consider all this advice, you will not be disappointed in what ever you choose to do. Have fun, remember this is only a hobby. enjoy the ride.

Gary S
 
#25 ·
It's wording like this that really gets people confused about control arms. Just what does "performance" mean? It doesn't mention anything about extra caster. For all you know, they may be the same as the old stock ones. Just for the heck of it, I asked the seller ""exactly what does "performance" mean?""

 
#45 ·
I'm glad we helped and hopefully didn't confuse you more! I just find that people automatically think "tubular" is better and wanted to stress the point that they might be, but most aren't.



And by the way, I did message the above seller and he had no clue what so ever what "performance" in his ad meant. He said all he knows is what's on the box when he receives them and there were no specs on the box or inside with them.
 
#28 ·
Good Tubular a-arms , like Global West, are far superior than stamped factory, which deflect and may Crack. Again, caveat being "good". If you are just a street cruiser, may be overkill. Autocross or track course, that's a different story.

QA1 and CPP aren't bad and if you are looking to upgrade from your originals, they would be fine.

Do NOT use poly A-Arm bushings...get the delrin type or stick with OEM rubber. Poly cold flows and is not meant for friction areas (movement).

There may be some that disagree, but I can point you to many publications that cite what I just said.

Good luck.
 
#30 · (Edited)
The lower control arms take about 90% of the abuse, and there is no reason to replace them unless they are bent or something from an accident or from hitting a 10" deep pothole at a little speed. The uppers don't take much abuse, so tubular ones are either for good looks, to fit some other suspension components, or to look cool.
I've never seen/heard anyone in this group set on making an autocross car out of a trifive. Maybe you have? But if so, I would imagine they would be changing a lot more than the upper control arms.
I haven't heard of anyone with cracked original arms, maybe I missed it?
 
#29 ·
I'm no expert on front suspension but my own personal experience with tubular control arms is this. My last build a frame off restoration on a A body 1970 Monte Carlo that I bought as a partially done project had a full Detroit Speed front suspension (one of the reasons I bought it)& it drove & handled better than any A body I have ever driven & Ive had several & drove a lot more The 56 was a big improvement over original suspension but I do not contribute that solely to any change to tubular arms as I changed so many components at the same time & because funds available at the time I didn't buy the best parts available.CPP tubular uppers (stamped weren't available then anyway) Summit lowers (Global West knockoffs) 500 box sway bar front disc & PB kit. Since then I've done two cars for others using the CPP +5* stamped uppers one with 500 box one with factory PS both drove a lot better.The 57 convertible with 500 box had better road feel. All three cars have different enough tires & wheels to not have a good comparison.I agree that the CPP & others need a quality ball joint added my uppers boots split within 6 months & one of the lowers was popping last summer being replaced with .5" ridetech taller uppers Moog lowers soon as I make myself go out in the garage to do it. So if I just wanted to improve road feel with radial tires the Stamped +5* do the job at a lot less cost but they might make it hard to steer without PS. Just my opinion
 
#31 ·
t. So if I just wanted to improve road feel with radial tires the Stamped +5* do the job at a lot less cost but they might make it hard to steer without PS. Just my opinion
The difficult steering would depend on how you adjust the +5 arms. +5 caster doesn't mean that your car will automatically have +5 caster, it just allows it to be set up that way under good conditions. Many have zero caster, or negative caster and with the originals you may be stuck with that and you are constantly moving the wheel back and forth to go straight. Adding 1 or 2 degrees positive with manual steering shouldn't be a problem with a big wheel.
 
#39 · (Edited)
Yes I have spoken to him two or three times. That's who I got the .9" taller ball joints from. That guy can talk and talk and talk... Wanted to sell me a coil over system but it's just not in my budget.
During my second call I swear to God that he told me newer cars have memory foam in the suspension and that's why they handle so great. Unfortunately I had just got a new bed and disposed of my old Tempurpedic. ;)
 
#35 ·
Sorry for the late reply. I talked to George at Heidts for their 2" inch drop spindle and he assured me that their spindle # SP-002-A would work with with the ECI, EC-735-K disc brake kit. I than called ECI and talked to Mark about their disc brake and he in turn, also confirmed what Heidts said.. This is the set up I am leaning towards. Right now, I am considering the CPP tubes over the stamped type, simply because I like the look of the tubes. If I feel that for some reason I don't like the way they perform, I can always go back to the OEM control a-arms once I clean them up. Erick at CPP told me that I could use the stock springs and stock shocks which I want to use. I want to thank all who participated in this conversation. Very much appreciated. I hope to start this project in two or three weeks. Thanks.
 
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