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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm in the market for a front sway bar for my 55 stepside with a straight axle. I can find two types. One is narrow with the bushings mounted to the cross member and the bar ends running to the leaf spring U bolts. The other is wider where the bushings mount to the front of the axle and the bar ends mount to a bracket coming off the frame over the leaf springs close to the front end of the springs. The truck has 3" lowering springs and a power steering box on the outside of the frame which I'm afraid will interfere with the wider sway bar bracket coming off the outside of the frame but, I'm thinking the wider the sway bar the better the results. See the picture.
Is this the right thinking or would the narrow one work the same and I know for sure I wouldn't have a interference issue? Thanks.

I just added pictures of narrow and wide bars to help with what I'm trying to describe.
 

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Narrow one will work better than none at all - I had the CPP wider style on my panel and that worked great you could 'feel' that it was tighter and there was a lot less lolloping about mid bend under power - mine did squeek a bit.

Panel vans had a front antiroll bar from the factory but mine had fell off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the feed back. I was feeling like others have not had any experience with straight axles. Maybe because a lot of them have switch to car front ends. I was into Jeeps for 10 or so years and I would disconnect the sway bar for more wheel travel off road and you could sure feel less control driving on the highways to the trails.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just thought I'd share my sway bar install for members searching in the future. I bought the 1-1/8" diameter narrow bar from JAMCO Suspension #FSB59C which covers 55 2nd thru 59 Chevy trucks. The cost was $136 plus freight. The plates that connect to the U bolts had to have one of the holes elongated as the U bolts would not go through. Due to having 3" lowering springs, I could not use the supplied spacer on the link bolts as it would put the ends of the bar too high towards the engine area. I figured the goal would be to make the bar level as possible and to make sure it had plenty of travel before it hit the frame. The ends of the bar could be about 1/2" wider on each side as the links ended up being slightly angled. Test drove it last night and oh what a difference it made. Normally when one side of the truck would dip into a hole, bump, etc., the truck would kind of pull to one side in a wierd way as the body rolled. It now drives and steers better than I could hope for. Hope this helps.
 

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