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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can you miss the push rod, mount the fuel pump flush, crank the engine, and not bend or break the push rod or the pump lever? I learned the lesson as a teenager that you have to hold back the push rod and get the lever under the tip.
Can you have a fuel line air leak without some gasoline moisture seeping out? I understand you can lose suction with even a minor air leak.
283 bored 0.60 over, original Carter 4-barrel WCFB, 4 to 5.5 psi fuel pressure.
Precision Fuel Pump - M23031 installed in Nov. '22 - I was never satisfied that it was delivering fuel and I finally put a pressure gauge in the fuel line. At idle 3 psi, rev it up fluctuated dropping to 0.5 psi. Likely the reason it spit and sputtered around 40 mph and drove easy under 30 mph.
Installed a new M23031 today. Blew out fuel line back to tank and up to carb. Insured gravity flow brought fuel to pump, and it filled the pump bowl. Cranked engine several times for 5 to 10 seconds, primed carburetor, and could not get fuel up to carb. Took it off, reinstalled, tried some more and even removed output side to see if any fuel would spit out of pump. Zip, nothing.
Waiting for delivery of pump #3 and yes, I would love to find a more reliable part.
If I can find good instructions/tips for electric pump system, I will consider the swap out.
Thanks.
 
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· Stainless Trim Restoration
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You are experiencing the universal problem of poor quality pumps. Keep trying if you want to get more frustrated. The only sure thing is
rebuilding an original one. Most are rebuilt with substandard rubber parts and those are not even compatible with today's gas = failure
is going to happen as you have found.

Mikey
 

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Can you have a fuel line air leak without some gasoline moisture seeping out? I understand you can lose suction with even a minor air leak.
Make certain that the flex hose at the fuel tank does not have a crack(s). A crack will allow the pump to draw air into the line and result is less or no fuel to pass to the pump and up to the carb. The flex line is high you may not see any fluid leakage.

Edit: removed typo - tge
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you're getting pressure at idle - even 3 PSI - you correctly installed the fuel pump. The problem is the quality of the pump itself, as has been the experience of many folks here.
That was the previous pump. Its replacement never pumped any fuel. I think every time I got it bolted in flush that the rod was sitting on the lever as designed. No damage discovered upon removal, but it did not pump either. ....Oh, the joy of all the work and no progress.
 

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1955 Bel Air Sport Coupe
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I pulled my engine and the car sat for a few months and when I got the engine back in it seemed like it took forever for the pump to prime. I was beginning to think I had an issue, but it finally came around after a very long time. I had to replace the battery I because I turned the engine over so many times.
 

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1957 Chevy Bel Air Convertible; ZZ4 w HEI ign; 700r4; 9" rear w/3:50 gears; pwr disc fr w drum rear
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I've had good experience with Edelbrock pumps so far.....(and I know it puts out the right PSI for my edelbrock carb) I've only had 2....one I sold with my prior 327, I bought another for my current 350 and its been a workhorse for close to 10 years, still going strong.
 

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Denver, Colorado 1956 Nomad
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If you are worried that the push rod might fall back down while installing the pump, there is a neat little trick you can use.
The top front motor mount bolt hole goes all the way through the block and will hold the push rod in place if the bolt is long enough.
I wish I had known about this a few years ago when installing my last fuel pump.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Orange Automotive lighting Automotive exterior
 

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If you are worried that the push rod might fall back down while installing the pump, there is a neat little trick you can use.
The top front motor mount bolt hole goes all the way through the block and will hold the push rod in place if the bolt is long enough.
I wish I had known about this a few years ago when installing my last fuel pump.
View attachment 391859
Just have to be sure to remember to remove it and put the short bolt back in with some sealant on the threads or get an oil leak.
 

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Here is a link to a recent thread about my and others mechanical fuel pump problems. There are also many other threads that discuss the same problems. I finally solved my problem by buying both a NOS and a good used original AC #4460, with central casting stamped (4913) fuel pump. This is the correct pump for Non high performance 1955-1957 V8's. The pumps were then rebuilt with a modern fuel tolerant rebuild kit. Problem solved!
Steve
 

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If you are worried that the push rod might fall back down while installing the pump, there is a neat little trick you can use.
The top front motor mount bolt hole goes all the way through the block and will hold the push rod in place if the bolt is long enough.
I wish I had known about this a few years ago when installing my last fuel pump.
View attachment 391859
I've used wheel bearing grease to retain the pushrod for decades without issue. Both SBC and BBC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If you are worried that the push rod might fall back down while installing the pump, there is a neat little trick you can use.
The top front motor mount bolt hole goes all the way through the block and will hold the push rod in place if the bolt is long enough.
I wish I had known about this a few years ago when installing my last fuel pump.
View attachment 391859
I like, but with it sitting in the engine bay and the water hoses in the way, this did not seem an easy answer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Today, I installed the replacement Precision pump and somehow on the second attempt it went right on. (I'm still trying to figure out the grease trick and not sure you can get the grease where it belongs with the cover plate on.)
Good news, it primed immediately, and showed 4 psi on my gauge. I ran it until it was warm, and it dropped to 3.5 psi. After a couple test runs, not getting to exceed 50 mph and have traveled about 10 miles, it performed perfectly. For added confidence, I will explore possible air leaks on the supply line and inspect the pickup tube and sock.
Thanks ...drive 'em often and even a little more.
 

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Today, I installed the replacement Precision pump and somehow on the second attempt it went right on. (I'm still trying to figure out the grease trick and not sure you can get the grease where it belongs with the cover plate on.)
Good news, it primed immediately, and showed 4 psi on my gauge. I ran it until it was warm, and it dropped to 3.5 psi. After a couple test runs, not getting to exceed 50 mph and have traveled about 10 miles, it performed perfectly. For added confidence, I will explore possible air leaks on the supply line and inspect the pickup tube and sock.
Thanks ...drive 'em often and even a little more.
Place the grease about the top end of the pushrod before it is inserted. Just enough grease about the OD to make the rod stick up in the hole before installing the pump. Grease on the end also serves as a break-in against the cam lobe.
 

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Make certain that the flex hose at the fuel tank does not have a crack(s). A crack will allow the pump to draw air into the line and result is less or no fuel to pass to the pump and up to the carb. The flex line is high you may not see any fluid leakage.

Edit: removed typo - tge
There isn't supposed to be any flex hose at the tank connection.
 

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Was thinking about my SS454 cars. A couple of times the factory hose between the fuel line and tank have developed a crack. Just replaced one last fall on my 11,000 mile car and another maybe 10 years ago on another car. The latter one showed no sign of a fuel leak.
Apples and oranges, The OP was asking about issues with his 57 Chevy.
 
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