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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I put it off and put it off and put it off till it started getting cold and now I'm scrambling to get heat in my garage. Sold a heat pump I was going to install, sold my salemander (alot of smoke sometimes), bought a barrell stove but plan on taking it back cause it would cost as much as a electric commercial heater to install. So, a guy contacted me about having the top of a heat pump with the squirrel cage blower. I'm trying to figure out how it would work. The CFM's should be around 400 which is good, he has a T-stat for it, I don't know the BTU's or watts, it does require 220V which I have in my garage. Can I basically hange it from a wall or the ceiling, wire it up and control it with the T-stat?

I could set it at 40+ when I leave and turn it up to 60+ while I'm in there. Can I used it? I can get it for cheap.
Josh
 

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I don't know anything about that heat pump, I have central heat and air in my new shop I'm building, but in my old shop I cut a hole in the wall and dropped in one of those Heat/Air Window Units. Purchased a Lowe's for around $450. my old shop was fully insulated, 22' x 30' only 660 sqr ft and this unit did a good job, and you're also getting the benefit of outside air, not recirculating inside which could be an issue with your heat pump. Might be an alternative if that other one you're considering doesn't work out. good luck, BDR
 

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What is a "top of a heat pump"? A heat pump needs an evaporator and condensor to work. One unit has to be outside. One nice thing about a heat pump is that you can cool the shop in the summer if you want to.

I have a 75000 BTU natural gas heater that I got NEW from Grainger for around $600. It hangs from the ceiling and heats my 1200 square foot shop in a hurry. There are usually a lot of heaters on Craig's list. Do you have gas available?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No gas available unless I bought a tank (or rented one).
I'm guessing that the guy basically has the squirrel fan and the heating elements. he is suppose to send me pics. I did find a King commercial type heater that puts out about 35,000 btu for about $450. I probably should have kept the heat pump I just sold....lol. I can handle the heat, it's the darn cold that gets me. I've about waited to long to get started on this and now am just trying to get through this winter.
Josh
 

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Electric heat is going to cost you a fortune, imo, and that's what you'd get if you just installed the inside unit of a heatpump. I wouldn't go that way. What he's probably doing is taking the indoor unit of a heat pump, and using the backup strip heaters in it. They are typically only about 5,000-15,000 watts, I believe. They are only for backup heating for a heatpump when the weather gets really cold.

I agree that you should have probably kept your heatpump. They are great when the weather isn't too cold. Can you find another one cheap?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah probably, maybe. The pop up on craigslist all the time.
Josh
 

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I have a heat pump in my 24 x 30 shop. I leave it off in the summer, except when I'm going to be in there. In the winter, I leave it set at 50, and turn it up when I go in there. It works well, and doesn't raise my electric bill that much.
I used to have a propane heater that used lots of propane for a weekend.......that cost me more for heat than the heat pump does.
 

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Josh,what size is your shop?Width,depth and height?
What you are talking about is part of a 2 part system.The heat strips and blower are part of the inside half of the 2 part system.
You can use it with a t-stat.
I use the whole inside half of a 4 ton heat pump to help heat my shop.I just don't use the coil.
Heat coils usually come in 5000 btu increments or sections.Then wired together to add up to what's needed.
What energy source is cheapest in your area?Natural gas,propane/butane or electricity?
Pick which energy source is cheapest and go with that.
Mike.:bowtieb::)
 

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Josh, how much does electricity cost you in your area, per KWH? Is there a demand adder?

The electric heater will probably do the job, but it could get expensive if you use it a lot.
 

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I use a pellet stove to heat my 28 x 30 shop . it is an insulated wood building . I turn it on about 1 hour before I go out to work . It is cheap to operate and was cheap to install . I got mine for free froman add in the news paper. gets down in the high 20's in the winter and the stove keeps the shop at 70 no problem . :blowtiedb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Average is 6.6cents per kWh. We have one of the lowest electricity cost due to 90% of it comes from coal. My options are limited to either buying a fuel tank and paying crazy cost to fill it for 3 months use out of the year or install a electric heater as shown above and offset the cost by burning more wood for heat in my house (house has a heat pump and a Ashley wood stove for back up). My bill in the winter gets close to $300 running heat pump. Oncce I update the windows this coming spring, that cost will go down. But the way things are looking, the government is trying to creat problems for electric companies burning coal and are in the end increasing my cost.
Let's break it down, I can install the wood stove I picked up from my friend ($100 but he said to bring it back if I can't use it) which will cost me $100 for the stove, $200+ for the flat ceiling installation kit, another $200 for 6' of double wall stainless chimney pipe and about $100 for stove pipe, etc. Now I would be willing to do that except I have a full time job and drive 52 miles each way to get there. I'm gone from the house at 6am and get home at 5:30pm, I go straight to the garage and work till 8pm, go in eat, take a shower and go to bed. With the stove I would loose about a half an hour to an hour trying to warm the garage, plus for some reason wood is increasing in cost which I believe is a result from a stupid government program that gives vouchers to people for free wood and then the sellers turn around and increase my cost to compensate for their loss.
Now with the electric, I would have the initial cost of $450 for the unit. Hook it up, set it on the lowest setting when I'm not there. When i get home, walk to the garage, turn the heat up and get to work. Now the unknown or something that I have no idea how to calculate (sure there is a way) is how much of an additional cost will I see on my electric bill. We usually have 3 to 4 months of below my capability to handle of cold weather.
My garage is 25'x32'x10' tall and most calculators recommend about a 35,000BTU heater. The one above is 34,100BTU and is a 10,000 Watt heater. So if I estimate the kWh I get 10kWh. Multiply that by .066 (cents) I get .66 cents an hour. Is that right?

If that is correct and if I take the time I'm in the garage during the week (12.5hrs) and ad it to the weekend (20hrs) and multiply that by .66cents I get $21.45 a week. That would increase my monthly bill by $85.80. If I use it for 4 months it would cost me $343.20 to run a year. That's not bad because if you figure up the cost of wood at $60 a load and running 2 stoves and probably going through a load a week, it could get expensive ($60x4weeks=$240x4 months=$940 a year operating cost).

You know, I just realize that I'm way to analytical :sign0020:
Josh
 

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Heat pump here...Not usually below the 30* level that triggers the aux heat coils, so the cost is cheap.. The unit is new, and does the job well.
This summer, w/ temps over 90 for weeks at a time, the bill for shop only avg'd $30-40.
Last winter the cost was about the same.
It's on ONLY when I'm there. The building is well insulated, and I added 1" insul to the panels in the 2 10x12 ohds.. HELPED A BUNCH! [Did a heat gain test w/ my infrared thermometer. External surface temps at 105*, interior temps 95*. Added the insulation, exterior at 105, interior 80*...]
FWIW, the new hp in the house cut the cooling costs by over $35.00, over the 15 yr old unit! Looking for similar savings on heat.
 

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My garage is 25'x32'x10' tall and most calculators recommend about a 35,000BTU heater. The one above is 34,100BTU and is a 10,000 Watt heater. So if I estimate the kWh I get 10kWh. Multiply that by .066 (cents) I get .66 cents an hour. Is that right?

If that is correct and if I take the time I'm in the garage during the week (12.5hrs) and ad it to the weekend (20hrs) and multiply that by .66cents I get $21.45 a week. That would increase my monthly bill by $85.80. If I use it for 4 months it would cost me $343.20 to run a year. That's not bad because if you figure up the cost of wood at $60 a load and running 2 stoves and probably going through a load a week, it could get expensive ($60x4weeks=$240x4 months=$940 a year operating cost).

You know, I just realize that I'm way to analytical :sign0020:
Josh
You are assuming the heater runs full-time. It probably won't at 34,000 BTU or 10KW output. It also assumes it's totally OFF when you're not there. I keep mine at the lowest thermostat setting of about 40-45 degrees when I'm not working so it never freezes out there.

What you need to do is estimate the heat loss from the shop given the inside and outside temperature differences, and use that number to calculate the cost. I know, it makes you even more analytical. ;)

Keep in mind that you can also use a programmable thermostat to start heating the shop before you get there, so it's warm when you enter. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I've talked myself into the electric one but I want to prep my garage. What's better, blown insulation, rolled insulation or that spray foam insulation? (more research) My first task is to finish the ceiling, it's open right now and is a flat ceiling. next the walls. I already have insulated doors.
Josh
 

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I can, with some degree of knowledge

I've talked myself into the electric one but I want to prep my garage. What's better, blown insulation, rolled insulation or that spray foam insulation? (more research) My first task is to finish the ceiling, it's open right now and is a flat ceiling. next the walls. I already have insulated doors.
Josh
suggest you NOT consider sprayed on insulation. Blown in has its merrit in an attic. Batt is easier to work with. What type of construction do you have, wood, steel or masonry (CMU)?

The real thing to consider is what "R"value you want. Also look at the fire rating on the product.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I built a wood frame garage. R-13 or R-19?
Josh
 

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I built a wood frame garage. R-13 or R-19?
Josh
Josh 19 at a minimum, more if you can afford it. OH! Also, make certain you have a vapor barrier. If you have no Insulation yet, also consider a radient barrier in the roof first, then R-19 or better.

I am considering adding 6" more in mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
I installed a vapor barrier on the outside when I built the garage and will add one on the inside when the insulation is installed. i'll look into the radiant barrier....thanks.
Josh
 

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How do you get from R13 to R19 in a fixed opening that's 3.5" deep (2x4 stud)? Aren't both of them 4" thick batts? So what makes one better than the other? I've never understood that.
 
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