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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a stud gun to take a couple wows out of my doors. Question; Does it matter which side of the door inside or outside of door sheet metal, that i start heating the metal up ...trying to do this with just the heat factor?

Edges of wallow to center of it slowly,..correct? bob s
 

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No matter if the panel is concave or convex apply the heat to the outside of the panel, the heat should shrink the stretched metal. After heat, you will most likely need to use a hammer and dolly to return the panel to it's original shape.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No matter if the panel is concave or convex apply the heat to the outside of the panel, the heat should shrink the stretched metal. After heat, you will most likely need to use a hammer and dolly to return the panel to it's original shape.
thanks Doc....i thought i would try this "new" stud gun on these ...see how good it works. That sound like a idea to you. New at this stud gun welding.. this one works really good so far bob s
 

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thanks Doc....i thought i would try this "new" stud gun on these ...see how good it works. That sound like a idea to you. New at this stud gun welding.. this one works really good so far bob s
They are great for when you can't access the inside of the dent. That's the only time I've seen them used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
[QUOTE=55 Tony;1205//////when you can't access the inside of the dent.

To push a dent out...........you can do it either way /either side of particular sheet metal. least thats how i take Docs answer??
 

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Once a dent/damage occurs the metal has been stretched and must be shrunk by heat and/or using a hammer and dolly to achieve it's original shape.

You can apply heat on the inside or outside, does not make a difference, the heat will shrink the metal. However, if your gun is like mine and has a safety switch which requires pressure for it to activate and you cannot reach the damaged area from the inside then I would pop the dent out (convex) then apply the heat on the outside to shrink the metal close to original then use hammer and dolly for final touch-up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Once a dent/damage occurs the metal has been stretched and must be shrunk by heat and/or using a hammer and dolly to achieve it's original shape.

You can apply heat on the inside or outside, does not make a difference, the heat will shrink the metal. However, if your gun is like mine and has a safety switch which requires pressure for it to activate and you cannot reach the damaged area from the inside then I would pop the dent out (convex) then apply the heat on the outside to shrink the metal close to original then use hammer and dolly for final touch-up.

Got it Doc!! appreciate the reply. i was thinking along those lines . bob s:flag6::bowtieb:
 

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stud gun, thought you were talking about me. wife use to call me that. :)
 

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A few words on how you use this thing.

Straighten the sheet metal best you can with a hammer and dolly or by using the slide hammer and studs. Both the hammer/dolly and the slide hammer/studs are going to tend to stretch the metal. The original damage may have done that too.

I can't over emphasize getting the metal smooth (no low spots or waves) before shrinking.

Once you have the metal smooth you will likely have a high spot (stretched metal). At that point you can use the shrinking tip supplied with the stud gun to shrink the metal. You will probably have to do the shrinking in a grid pattern. Just applying the shrink to the highest spot won't be enough. And while the shrinking tip will shrink a low spot, it may not raise up. Typically you need to do some smoothing with a hammer and dolly after shrinking, as there's usually a small upset area left after applying the shrink. Unless it's a really small stretched area, you'll have to do a back and forth with the hammer/dolly and the shrinking tip. And you can shrink too much, which is more difficult to recover from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
A few words on how you use this thing.

Straighten the sheet metal best you can with a hammer and dolly or by using the slide hammer and studs. Both the hammer/dolly and the slide hammer/studs are going to tend to stretch the metal. The original damage may have done that too.

I can't over emphasize getting the metal smooth (no low spots or waves) before shrinking.

Once you have the metal smooth you will likely have a high spot (stretched metal). At that point you can use the shrinking tip supplied with the stud gun to shrink the metal. You will probably have to do the shrinking in a grid pattern. Just applying the shrink to the highest spot won't be enough. And while the shrinking tip will shrink a low spot, it may not raise up. Typically you need to do some smoothing with a hammer and dolly after shrinking, as there's usually a small upset area left after applying the shrink. Unless it's a really small stretched area, you'll have to do a back and forth with the hammer/dolly and the shrinking tip. And you can shrink too much, which is more difficult to recover from.

Thank you alot!! for the input i read it carefully. This raises another question!! This is a gun i just bought from harbor freight. It did not have any other so called; tip with it ..other than the installed tip.... for the"smaller" pins. What does this ""heating" tip look like.
This gun CAME with two; size pins.. in small bags.The directions are not in depth... ,,.The smaller pins fit nicely into the head of the gun.............but does it take a larger tip[center hole] for the larger tip? Would you have any ideas on this situation . bob s
 

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Thank you alot!! for the input i read it carefully. This raises another question!! This is a gun i just bought from harbor freight. It did not have any other so called; tip with it ..other than the installed tip.... for the"smaller" pins. What does this ""heating" tip look like.
This gun CAME with two; size pins.. in small bags.The directions are not in depth... ,,.The smaller pins fit nicely into the head of the gun.............but does it take a larger tip[center hole] for the larger tip? Would you have any ideas on this situation . bob s
Not all stud guns can be used for shrinking as Rick stated. The better quality more expensive models have this feature. The tip is just a round tip. For it to work you need a gun with more output for a longer time. It super heats a larger area, then as it cools the metal contracts. Using cool air or water will cause it to contract more, and faster. Harbor Freight is not this type gun.

Mikey
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
dent removing with heat gun/stud gun/ something??????

Somebody here was showing ..removing sheetmetal dips with A stud gun. Now the picture i saw mp&c rick L,Doc harley ??? one of these fluent bodymen.i would think, had heated little spots all over a Door skin...it looked like it was on the inside. I swear that those spots, looked like the very tip! i have on this H/F gun i bought . Did anyone here see those pics. i remember it was a steady poster ...and was quite knowledgeable about body work...and this removing dents with ...possibly;said gun .
 

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MP&C posted an article where he had a grid on some sheet metal for locating the shrinks. I think he may have even purposely damaged the panel prior to that. I think it was on a flat panel for a school bus.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
MP&C posted an article where he had a grid on some sheet metal for locating the shrinks. I think he may have even purposely damaged the panel prior to that. I think it was on a flat panel for a school bus.
Did you remember or know of...any of my other things mentioned? thank you Rick:bowtieb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Bob, Don't get confused by having too much info. The heat gun sold by Harbor Fright can be used to shrink metal. You will need to buy a tip. Check this out.... http://www.eastwood.com/stud-welder...=40408680567&gclid=CPXS17_d4rkCFeRj7AodH3YArA

Also, you tube has some videos, here's one of many.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7wdxmeGHE8
Doc!! Carman! Thank you for the.........replys i need at this time. the head[tip]is one thing i want to get.and Carman... thank you for digging up that page i needed .I think i'd have a better chance of doing what i need ..which isn't much. My mini torch did most.... but eventually the steel doesn't want to react to it . To close initially Maybe.


Has anybody ever bought the needed tip from H/F. I try to get things lined up ...for when i go to town.:bowtieb:
 

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I don't think HF sells a shrinking tip for their gun. If you can find a Matco tool distributor near you they sell them. Otherwise you may have to buy online.

Ernie
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I don't think HF sells a shrinking tip for their gun. If you can find a Matco tool distributor near you they sell them. Otherwise you may have to buy online.

Ernie
Thank you Ernie~~~~~~~~ bob
 

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Not all stud guns can be used for shrinking as Rick stated. The better quality more expensive models have this feature. The tip is just a round tip. For it to work you need a gun with more output for a longer time. It super heats a larger area, then as it cools the metal contracts. Using cool air or water will cause it to contract more, and faster. Harbor Freight is not this type gun.

Mikey
I was a body and fender man way back in the 70's and any shrinking we did was with a torch, hammer and dolly but most important(as I was taught) came the bucket of water and sponge to cool the area once done. There may be other ways to skin said cat, but we always cooled the area to shrink the metal. :anim_25:
 
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