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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

I got the 55 back yesterday from media, and he also sealed the body(baked on). Now im going to start cutting out my floor for a full floor pan replacement, but i have some questions. I understand that i should cut the floor out close to the spot welds, remove the floor, and drill/grind the spot welds as they will be easier to get to after the floor is out of the way. My question is, once i cut the floor , do i lift the body off and remove the spot welds with the body off? If so, what do you set the body on, blocks, jackstands? And can i do this with 4 guys. Finally do i need to brace the body, its a sedan with soild rockers, i was thinking that one brace from side to side would be okay.
Thanks
 

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I don't know the answer to your question but from the pic's the floor doesn't look that bad. I know it's hard from the pictures but if you don't need to replace the whole floor I wouldn't. They do sell the individual panels for the floors. That's what I ended up doing as my rear pass floor was rotted. Godd luck as it looks to be in real good shape,
 

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Before you start cutting the floor I would weld in some bracing ,,,IMO:) that floor does look pretty good , I agree, maybe patch panels would work and be a lot easier ,,
 

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I don't know the answer to your question but from the pic's the floor doesn't look that bad. I know it's hard from the pictures but if you don't need to replace the whole floor I wouldn't. They do sell the individual panels for the floors. That's what I ended up doing as my rear pass floor was rotted. Godd luck as it looks to be in real good shape,
I agree. If the floor just has a few pin holes here and there, patch panels are just as good. Sure would save you a lot of money and effort. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
There are a lot of pin holes everywhere and deep craters from the rust also. I would have a lot of patch panels unless i got half floors (full length) for both sides.
 

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Just looks like you may need floor pans, the centre tunnel looks beaten up depending wether your going with a floor shift you could work with something.

If you do decide to go with a full floor replacement get one with floor braces, look at your inner & outer rockers, towards the rear theres a two piece section for the tail pan that usually rusts out.

Brace so the body does not flex, preventing issues with door alignment.
 

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I'd like to share an experience I just had my floors were very similar. They were rusted on both sides, paper thin ,so I opted to replace three rear pans and some braces. Bottom line, almost $3000 spent for pans braces and labor and it looks like patch job. I wish that I had braced it up and put a full pan in with braces. I know its a difficult decision.
 

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I went with the advice of my bodyman and
got him to replace the full floorpan with braces,
and I'm glad I did.
I guess I drilled out 140 spotwelds to remove the
old braces for nothing.:sign0020:

I know that if it's feasible to keep as much of
the original floorpans as possible.In my case it
wasn't.

Here's a before and after photo of the floorpans.
The body braces are already removed in the before photo.
 

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Sometimes you just need to bite the bullet. Driving in New England winters then sitting in a barn for 20+ years with dirt floors does a toll in the floor and frame. It is getting done ... slowly
 

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