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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
bringing you guys up to date, #3 plug, black, wet, caked up. so, pulled the valve springs, there ya have it, a broken valve seal. ok, replaced it. now i have a new 50,000 volt coil, since the accel coil died. uped it to 50,000. new autolite #NA 73 racing plug, .042 gap. runs great. still have the knock. in fact it seems to be quicker. i run the car to ocean city last weekend for the endless summer cruise. 200 miles, one way. did`nt skip a beat all the way down. idleing around there, i fouled the same, #3 plug. unreal. soooooooooooooo, i kinda think my knock is narrowed down to that cylinder. ring probably.so, i think i`m going to attack this by dropping the pan, and just pull that piston. will the pan come off without lifting the engine?
 

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The pan will come off easier than the piston will drop out and go back in from the bottom...
 

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I did this out on the road once many years ago. I had a 327 in the car at the time. The biggest problem I had was getting the oil pan off. I had to remove the dizzy and raise the front of the engine so I had enough clearance between the engine and the front cross member to remove the oil pan. I did remove the piston from the top so I also removed the intake manifold and head from that side of the engine.

Good luck.
 

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Pull the head !!

Even if you can chnge piston in the car. ITs much easier on the back to pull the engine and put it on a stand even if you have to buy or rent them. Sorry I"m savin my back. Ever tried installing a piston without dinging the wall while engine is in car?
 

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Were you planning on just changing the rings without honing the cylinder? Do you think the new rings will seat properly if you don't? I don't know the answers to the above questions that's why I'm asking, but I would think that you would have to hone the cylinder for proper install. I'm sure those who know better will set me (us) straight. Good luck with the engine.

Don
 

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bringing you guys up to date, #3 plug, black, wet, caked up. so, pulled the valve springs, there ya have it, a broken valve seal. ok, replaced it. now i have a new 50,000 volt coil, since the accel coil died. uped it to 50,000. new autolite #NA 73 racing plug, .042 gap. runs great. still have the knock. in fact it seems to be quicker. i run the car to ocean city last weekend for the endless summer cruise. 200 miles, one way. did`nt skip a beat all the way down. idleing around there, i fouled the same, #3 plug. unreal. soooooooooooooo, i kinda think my knock is narrowed down to that cylinder. ring probably.so, i think i`m going to attack this by dropping the pan, and just pull that piston. will the pan come off without lifting the engine?
GOOD LUCK
This is gonna be work :eek: Why not pull motor , lots easier
 

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drop your idler arm two bolts that attach to frame it will lower drag link and make room for pan to come off good luck. rick
 

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Dude.....I've never removed a piston from the bottom.....Don't think it is possible....Even, if you got it out, don't know how you'd get it back in either.:confused0006:
 

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I do not know the history of your engine, but if it was me I would pull the motor and do a complete rebuild. Yes it is more money up front, but at the least you know exactly what you have. I have found that bandaid fixes just lead to more fustration and "fixes" down the road. Just MHO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanx everyone!! however, i mislead ya. the heads will be off. just wanted to pull the pan, pull the piston out up top. sorry. see, the hood alignment is VERY tight. works good, looks good now. i did`nt want to take the hood off. but i`ll have alot more clearance if the heads are off, if i pull the engine.
 

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Dude....After I got my hood aligned, I drilled a hole in each side through the hood and hinge.....So, when it comes time to put the hood back on, I just put a nail through each hole and it aligns perfectly to where it was before.
 
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