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can anybody tell me where is the best spot to put a ground cable. I have a 55 chevy with a 350 engine and a 200 r4 tranny. Thanks Pat
Not for performance - there is also no need to zinc boats either they will still float and run. But check out a on prop from a zinced boat and a prop from that the owner says the "you don't need" where they both have the same hrs and you will see the difference.There's really no need to ground the frame at all unless some of your accessories are grounded there, or you're using the frame as a ground path for a remote battery to the engine. The body contains all the grounds you need for lights, etc.
The frame is electically insulated from the body due to the rubber body mounts and engine/tranny mounts. I don't see any way that any "electrolysis" can occur due to an ungrounded frame, and I don't see how any "triangle" of grounds can prevent it if it even COULD occur. Old wives tales, and hocus pocus, imo.Not for performance - there is also no need to zinc boats either they will still float and run. But check out a on prop from a zinced boat and a prop from that the owner says the "you don't need" where they both have the same hrs and you will see the difference.
but after very few years look inside the the water passages of your aluminum head and intakes. See all them places where the aluminum dissapeared and left cavities?? Yep? Comes back to no triangle every time ya see it.
NOT because of the batteries current as in "using your frame to ground accesories" but because of the difference between the batteries current flow through the block and the static electricity from the coolant flow. the tringle eliminates the static by ensuring the water is part of the entire vehicles ground!
none taken - and I am laughing as well. My brain was thinking "electro static current" yet my fingers typed "static electricity". lol - although interestgly enough static electricity does play a part! See link below!"Static electricity" from coolant flow? No offense, but....:sign0020:
Sorry, I couldn't help it.![]()
Thanks Robert, read above post - lmao at myself. static electricity in water. duh...electrostatic!Actually its not static electricity but electro-chemically generated current due to dissimilar metals aluminum , cast iron in contact with coolant that provides the electrolyte and the aluminum is eroded by it. Use sacrifical anodes in the coolant system and that will help prevent damage to the aluminum parts.
Regards, Robert
How in the world do you get .5V in your coolant? Where is this measured?I recall an article some time ago that stated you should dump your coolant when its voltage read .5 on a digital voltmeter to prevent corrosion from going wild. I think this indicates an acidic level. :anim_25:
How in the world do you get .5V in your coolant? Where is this measured?
I know galvanic or electrolytic corrosion can take place between dissimilar metals with the presence of an electrolyte (like sea water) but I don't understand where the electrolyte is in a cooling system. Does the coolant become contaminated with ions of some sort? I can't imagine anything causing a .5V differential. I can see a few millivolts....maybe. :confused0006:
Dissimmilar metals are the base cause - eltro-static current is the accelerant.Might want to read up on this:
http://blogs.hotrod.com/6339674/editorials/hot-rod-galvanic-corrosion/index.html