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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For those of you who don't know I am taking over my dads 57 chevy convertable project after his death.One question I have is when I get the frame completed I need to get the body set down on it.My problem is that dad left the body hanging from the ceiling of the shop while he was piecing the new floor panels together and it looks like the body is twisted.It makes me wonder if I will be able to set the body down without removing the floor panels or at least loosen them.Any suggestions?:D
 

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Hi Shadoe
Gee you may have a problem :( but I would set it down and find out how much of a problem. You did not mention whether or not your dad left the doors on when he attached the pans? I don't want to speculate as of yet but it would be my guess there will be some problems. Some of the twisting can be from uneven hanging apparatus but that would automaticly incorporate the twist in while welding. Post photo's and keep us up to date.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
He did not have the doors on when he put the pans in.He didn't weld the pans together he temporarly pop riveted them together.
 

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Shadoe,
Steve's a very busy man.....but don't let him off the hook! He's an expert in his field. And he loves to help. I'm curious to hear how this turns out. Good luck.

Tom
 

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Thank you guys your are really to kind. :eek: :eek:
That is great news that the doors were on and the pans were only riveted in place as a temp.
I feel the next step is to get a new body mount kit and lets mount the body and see were we stand. Have you looked at the pan braces and mounts as of yet are they in good shape? And also is there anything else needed before you lower the body?
The pans being in place as they are will not affect the body being set in place, once it is on the frame you can tweak and shim the gaps and when you are satisfied that's when you can start welding the pans in After of course you have the car braced in place untill the welding is complete.
Would really like to see some photo's if possible. :)
 

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Thank you guys your are really to kind. :eek: :eek:
That is great news that the doors were on and the pans were only riveted in place as a temp.
I feel the next step is to get a new body mount kit and lets mount the body and see were we stand. Have you looked at the pan braces and mounts as of yet are they in good shape? And also is there anything else needed before you lower the body?
The pans being in place as they are will not affect the body being set in place, once it is on the frame you can tweak and shim the gaps and when you are satisfied that's when you can start welding the pans in After of course you have the car braced in place until the welding is complete.
Would really like to see some photo's if possible. :)
OH Boy
Sorry about that Shadoe, I must have been hoping to hard. :( But at least the pans aren't welded in which has not introduced heat in to those areas.
I guess we just need to start over and put the body on the frame, as mentioned before in my previous post.
What I would really like to see you do is first put the frame on stands, and level with shims so you can establish a base line to go off. This is really easy to do, just a tiny bit more time involved, but very well worth the effort. Reason why any were you go in the body that you are in question with you can go side to side with a level and easily establish the difference between and how far off or close each area is to each other.
For instance say you have a concern about the position of the right side rocker, you simply put a bullet level or protractor on the left side rocker.
Now this of course is after you have plumed the frame so it is level. Now most body panels that are installed such as a rocker panel by visually checking gaps to see they are all uniform.
Now some builders or restorers may not do this (level chassis) because they have done so many they have foot notes to go off of and they have built this same type car dozens of times and know just what to look for with out any doubt what move to make next.
Protractors are inexpensive and so are levels and well worth the investment.
Here is a protractor, this one is a little pricey if you only use it once or twice
but a decent one can be had for around 15 bucks at sears.


This 41 Willys was built with levels and protractors right off a new frame we built, simply on jack stands on the floor.


Point is if you have a good baseline to work off you can refer back to it time and time again . Most the time I am in such a habit of the base line theory when I weld braces in I work hard to weld them in symmetrically from side to side and front to back so I have an infinite measuring jig to refer back to threw out the entire job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If you go back to the link above and go to shadoe's photos I have 2 more pics maybe not to dark.Still trying to figure out how to post the pics directly.
 

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Shadoe, when write your post and scroll down to send post go below that where it says manage attachments, click there and then you can pick from your pictures on your computer and load them. Depending on your camera the pics may be to large to send. If that happens go to www.fookes.com and download Easy Thumbnails. I make mine 500x500 and they post easily then.
Dave
 
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