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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys, I am having trouble with the closing of my doors.

They were ok with trial fit using the old latches and strikers.

But now with the car painted, re-assembled and with repro stroker plates in place, they close really 'hard'. Left side is better than right, but neither are great. Latches are original.

When I close the right door, it needs a real slam to close. And it just sounds like metal clunking, nothing like the sweet sort of thunk I want. Gaps are pretty good all around, even if the door sits a wee bit low.

Have tried various adjustments of the striker – up, down, in, out, angled in, angled out. Even with the supplied shim plate. As it is, the door latch closes on the striker and raises up just a little to finds its final position – as I understand it should. Even if I close the door with the handle button pressed, with the star wheel free, I still hear metal hitting metal: The first hit happens when the door is about 1" from closed, and then the second hit when about 1/2" closed.

I have looked closely from inside and out and cannot see what might be fouling the process. Pen marks I have placed on the striker plate teeth indicate the star wheel is connecting on the rear, but there still seems to be plenty of room everywhere between the latch case and the striker.

Could it be that the repro strikers are a problem?

Could it be that the star wheel is hitting the striker teeth too low and is not rolling on properly? But when the door is open, the star wheel moves freely.

Very puzzling after a couple of hours messing around with it this morning.

Advice welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Striker set came with some 1/16" shims which I tried. Made no difference, unfortunately.
 

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Go back to the old striker plates. If they work, either clean them up or find original striker plates from another car. (the back doors of a 4 door are a good source)
 

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Striker shouldnt be used to raise door into position this will always cause a bind. Try lowering ur striker plate to see if it improves. If it fixes the issue u will have to raise rear of door. When u did ur mock up did u add a height offset to the rear of the door to allow for sag when all the weight is added? Cheers Tommo
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks, Tommo.

Adjusted the striker position, including having it lower – which was actually at the bottom of the vertical adjustment – and it didn't make much, if any difference.

In another thread I have mentioned the position of the door and have raised it slightly. But have been coming to the conclusion that the rear edge needs to come up more. Am getting quite good at setting these doors, now! But I won't do this final adjustment until the rubbers are on, which should be next Tuesday.

I can't remember whether the trial fit used the old or new striker plates. But either way, we fitted the doors without any compensation for sag, knowing that further adjustment would be needed later. We were right on that front!

Stovee, I tried another original striker, although not my original one, and that made no difference. But will trawl through my leftovers and swap them out just to be sure.

Does anyone have any particular bad experience with these repro striker plates? Just want to cross that off the list, if possible. Searched the site for all thread titles with "door" and found no such complaint.

Thanks everyone – will get to the bottom of this.
 

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A few thoughts

You MUST have the door adjustments done before the rubber goes on. The rubber will need to compress for several days before the door will not be in a jamb.

Sometimes I have had to tilt the top of the striker toward the outside of the car more than the bottom. This changes the angle of the teeth as they engauge the latch on the door. It looks strange, because you would think the back edge of the striker should run true to the line of the door jamb. But it has no bearing on it. This may solve your problem

The purpose of the shimms behind the striker is to move it closer to the latch so as the edge of the striker clears and almost centers the star wheel in the latch assembly. It is not uncommon to see the closed face (56 and 57) of the latch torn up by hitting the hardened teeth of the striker.

Make sure the nylon slider and spring assembly are well lubed, in the striker, so they move freeeeely

Make sure the star assembly and inner latch is well lubed. The NOS ones I have seen were almost completely coated in lithium grease on the back side.

Mikey
55wagoncrazy
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks, Mikey.

I had played with the angle of the striker at the bottom, pulling that out a little. But will try at the top as well – pulling that out. And yes, I had it parallel to the door jamb.

Will also do the lube as you suggest.

The star wheel was certainly not centered – on either door. But then, putting the supplied 1/16" shim in there did not make any difference. Maybe a combination of options will be the way to solve it.

Perhaps part of the problem is the striker teeth hitting the star wheel too high, so that it does not want to spin on first contact. I suspect that the latch is actually ok – the start wheel spins freely and the clunking sound is happening even when I close the door with the door button pressed.

Will let you know what I come up with.

Cheers
 

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Hey John, if you're putting the lithium grease on the latch, don't do what I did when I used CRC Spray Lithium Grease. It solidified after 6 months and caused the latch to malfunction. What I used in the end was LubriPlate grease, which seems to be ok.
Are you sure that any other part of the door or window is not caused the noise - not sure if you have your windows installed yet, but on the 2dr ht, there's a lot of things happening when you close the door, flippers etc.
Cheers, Rod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks, gents.

I have lowered the window a little to minimise any other resistance in the set-up. And am watching the flipper – although I know they are working smoothly.

My focus here is the hitting sound and feeling I get through my hand as I close the door – it is definitely coming from the latch/striker area. With the door button pressed, the first 'hit' comes as the two parts engage and the door is still 1" open, and then again when it is 1/2" open – and it seems like metal against metal.

What's the general opinion on the rear of the door rolling up slightly on the striker to take its final position? At present, the rear of the door raises up 1/16" as the latch engages. Maybe I should be adjusting the hinges or the door to hinges a little?
 

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There is all good advise for adjusting / determining if your striker / door latch is the problem issue or not. Have you tried the door in the jamb without the striker attached to the jamb? The door should fit (on the hinges) in the door space with the leading and trailing edges at 1/4" spacing front back and bottom. Now add the strike but just snug it up. Don't tighten it. Now close the door again. Same? Does it fit in the jamb...close...latch...No? The post may need adjustment. Sometimes a 5Lbs sledge and a 2X4 can solve the issue ( I know...doesn't sound sophisticated...that's life...) sometimes...to bring the strike closer to the latch...a shim will help. You need to determine if the strike is too close or too far away.

It's not easy making doors fit. Especially not if there are 4! :anim_25:
 

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Thanks, gents.

I have lowered the window a little to minimise any other resistance in the set-up. And am watching the flipper – although I know they are working smoothly.

My focus here is the hitting sound and feeling I get through my hand as I close the door – it is definitely coming from the latch/striker area. With the door button pressed, the first 'hit' comes as the two parts engage and the door is still 1" open, and then again when it is 1/2" open – and it seems like metal against metal.

What's the general opinion on the rear of the door rolling up slightly on the striker to take its final position? At present, the rear of the door raises up 1/16" as the latch engages. Maybe I should be adjusting the hinges or the door to hinges a little?
In a perfect world they must hit each other to roll the star in the latch, however it should be a gentle roll as they engage. In the shop manual they tell you to use modeling clay to check the fit, maybe you should do that. The door should not raise when it hits the striker. The striker should just engage the latch, so the latch captures the striker.

Mikey
55wagoncrazy
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hey John, if you're putting the lithium grease on the latch, don't do what I did when I used CRC Spray Lithium Grease. It solidified after 6 months and caused the latch to malfunction. What I used in the end was LubriPlate grease, which seems to be ok.
Rod, I have some silicon grease in a spray – would that be ok for the job? (Have used a lighter version of same for marine purposes, and it is very good stuff.) And are you talking about lubricating all of the internals or just around the star wheel? From memory, the internals got a light lubrication with WD40 to make sure all was moving freely before being fitted.

I think I have all the variables to hand for this now, so will work through early next week and report back.

Cheers
 

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Hi John
Without knowing how it sets when dry, I cant say. The objective is to enable all of the little levers to freely move when the door knob is depressed. Mine was fine when I first did it with the CRC Spray Lithium, but then the grease dried out, and it was enough to prevent the latch internals from working.
There should be no real need to use anything other than a dry lube stick on the star wheel and the catch.
Mikey's right, use the modelling clay or Plasticine to check the relationships.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hey everyone – Des and I got the door fitting, and latching, lickety click today.

The problem was not so much the latch as the position of the door. Right along it was a bit too low, so we tried a combination of adjusting it while closed as well as with a jack under while open. Also, we made sure that the door latch was not using the striker to ride up and take position – rather just roll over and gently catch.

To adjust the door with a jack while open, all six hinge bolts were loosened and just the centre ones top and bottom used for preliminary adjustment. To angle the door up or down, one bolt was kept firm, to keep front/back positioning, and the position altered slightly along the other. Working top and bottom this way the door can also be moved front and back in a kind of zig-zag action. For this the jack was about 1/3 the way forward from the rear of the door. I guess to move the door straight up and down, both bolts could have been loosened and the jack positioned near the front of the door and raised from there.

It's a two person job, with one on the jack and the other on the tools and taking measure of the movements of the door against the hinge.

Also helped to remove the striker and, in the case of my 2DHT, the flipper, just to be sure there is no interference, as we encountered when the door had been moved up a little too hight through the process.

Just fyi, there is some minor adjustment that can be made via the hinge bolts while the door is closed and positioned on the striker, using from the inside a pinch bar (or two) with folded cardboard on the end (to protect paint) to raise the door from positioned front and back. Again, have all 6 bolts loosened and just work the initial settings with the centre bolts top and bottom and then tighten up the remainder once done. Of course, the top forward bolt on each side can only be got at with the door open.

Thanks everyone for the help on this. Absolutely great to have the door positioned and closing so sweetly!
 

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After we got mine lined up & marked, we took them off and put them on a buffer wheel. They will shine like chrome....:anim_25:
:gba:
bowtie-trifive
 
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