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*HEI making Clicking Sound

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10K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  Rods56 
#1 ·
Hey all,
Have a fresh 350 Crate engine, MSD Streetfire, new wires and separators.
Distributor is making a clicking sound (Stethoscope) and running rough at idle.
Any ideas???

Thanks in advance,
Rods56
 
#2 ·
Check to make sure the dist. cap is seated and secured correctly. Also when its removed inspect to see that the rotor is not hitting one or more of the wire terminals on the inside.As far as the rough idle verify that the wires are correctly routed for the firing order from the dist. cap to the plugs,ie,18436572. Being that #5 and 7 fire one right after the other make sure those two plug wires are separated and not touching,that can cause a crossfire. Next,check for timing set and make sure there are no vacuum leaks. Good luck,hope this helps. Bob:bowtieb:
 
#3 ·
Had that very same thing happen on a 1977 Corvette HEI that was rebuilt. The adjustment between the reluctor ring and the magnetic pickup is very sensitive, and absolutely critical.

I recall measuring the gap with a non magnetic feeler gauge, and think it was right. When I tightened the bolt down and spun the distributor, I could here the reluctor ring hitting the pickup and making a clicking sound.

It took some finessing to get it just right.

Also make sure you distributor shaft is not bent. A slight bend will cause all kinds of problems.
 
#4 ·
I have checked things more than once, twice and thrice. Bought a new rotor and cap...still clicking. Got this distributor from a friend who bought it new, but did not like the large size...and he has a 63' Impala! Anyway, I noticed that it has a spacer and that should raise the distributor slightly...believe its for manifolds that have a thin boss where it drops in at...anyway, I am pulling this one out and replacing it with a standard GM HEI tomorrow. I have separators on wires to keep the crossfire away too. Its just weird as I have never seen (heard) this on all the GM HEI's I have had in other cars. We shall see...
 
#7 ·
HEI Clicking Noise

Fixed! All it took was a new distributor from O'Reilly's for $111.00 Dropped it in, fired right up, ran smooth and no noise! I guess I really wasted money on Pertronix with a coil, and an HEI from MSD. Newsflash...they may look cool...but performance REALLY DOES COUNT!
I am sure this issue has occurred to others but replacing a cap and rotor and still making the same noise....when you can see the four lockdowns are in place and the locater lug from the cap in the slot in the distributor...solves nothing? And yes...the wires were routed to prevent cross firing. Glad I tried another distributor!

Engine Auto part Vehicle Motor vehicle Fuel line


Rods56
 
#8 ·
Rod....Is that a large body HEI? How does it clear the firewall? Is your engine moved forward?
 
#9 ·
New 3/4 forward side mounts, clears firewall very nice, large Cap HEI (I only wanted to clean up the clutter by not having an external coil on the manifold). All works great together...plus I have enough room to put a mechanical fan to help keep it cool, even with the electric inside of the radiator support (V-8 in Six Position) cause electric fans will fail at the worst times.

Rods56
 
#11 ·
What transmission do you have? Any problems with moving the engine 3/4" forward?
 
#12 ·
It has a 700R-4 installed. If you switch from a Turbo 350, you have to relocate the cross member bracket location as it is longer than a 350. Since I have all three options (350, 200R-4 from a Hurst Olds, and the 700R-4) I made new frame brackets out of 2 X 3 angle, so that I don't have to re-drill the frame just to mount a different transmission. Not hard to do really. My brackets are now twelve inches long, the hardest part was making the oval holes for up and down adjustment. My transmission cooling lines do not go to the engine radiator...as I mounted a remote cooler with a fan under the right aft passenger floorboard. When I moved the engine forward...I only removed the transmission cross-member bolts to the frame bracket...and re-drilled the new location (I "C" clamped it up to the bracket and then drilled it.)
 
#13 ·
So, the linkage was no problem then?
 
#14 ·
If you use the stock style auto shifter...you only need to adjust it a little shorter, as the engine and trans move the same amount. BUT if you are talking a stick/on the floor 4 speed...you will have to relocate the ball bracket on the frame for the clutch arm. I am using a cable shift...so no issues there. I am sure you can use the column shift with the kit that Danchuks or Ecklers sells...
 
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