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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm about to get busy installing my new Hellwig bar. The pic and instructions are not 100% clear (to me anyway) about the location of the main bar bushing mounting points.

I don't want to drill the holes incorrectly (too close to where the frame comes together) and the pic in the instructions isn't very clear. Is there some guidance (rule of thumb or measurements) I can get here and some good pics?

My car is a 57 if that matters. Thanks as usual.
 

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The links that connect the sway bar to the control arms should be vertical when the car is at ride height. That will determine what the location of the front bushings will be.
 

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maybe this will help. :anim_25:
 

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When i mounted mine I used some long zip ties to hold everything in place untill I had it positioned correctely. Then i marked the drill points on the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The links that connect the sway bar to the control arms should be vertical when the car is at ride height. That will determine what the location of the front bushings will be.
That makes sense. I'm concerned about where the u-plates will hit. The instructions suggest there could be interference in the inner frame with the threaded plate. I guess I just need to get it mocked up and see.

Do I need to lube the bushings before clamping it all down?
 

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THe 57 frame will not have any issues with the treaded plates as the frame is a box section where they install. On 55 and 56 frames, the inner frame section is angled into the outer channel and can come close. If you have a clearance issue, you only have to chamfer one corner of the threaded plate for clearance. But your 57 will have no issues. Just lay out the sway bar so that it installs with the end links vertical and mark your holes. If you're doing it in the driveway a floor jack under the center of the sway bar helps to keep it in place during the install. Also the control arm brackets are designed so that you do not have to remove the end links to drill the holes. Just line them up on the control arm and drill the holes. Don't lubricate the bushings until the final install. The friction of the bushings helps to keep everything lined up while laying out the hole locations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
One more question before I put it on....

I have the 1.25" bar. Since I've had it I'm reading where I'm going to need a rear bar to properly balance the car with that large a front bar. I wasn't planning on a rear bar.

I'm not planning on road racing but I want it to handle properly when pushed a little bit.

Do I need to go back to a smaller front bar (1.125" or less?) or will it be ok to just drive it like it is? I have a small block car that will eventually be lowered 2 inches or so. I suppose I can do the rear bar if the consensus is "don't be an idiot" and do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Put the bar you have on and see what you think. You can always add it later.
Well, I figure if I haven't installed it I can swap it for a smaller bar if that is the better choice if not going with a rear bar.

Sounded like the big bar may be ok by itself. Just checking before it's too late.
 
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BOB, for what it's worth, I have agonized over soooo many things like this, I'm still not on the road. Mine is a 7/8th and is fine, no rear. Why don't you put the 1 1/.2" on and see if you like it. Takes about an hour to change to the other. No Big Deal. Not going to handle like a speedracer till you change frames and a whole lot of other stuff. Big $$$$$$. This is the best low $$$ change you can make. Most here say you don't even need the rear sway bar. Food for Thought, Puttin mine on the street ASAP/ :) Lloyd
 

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The 1-1/4" bar is OK by itself in the front. If you want the most performance, the rear bar will make the car feel more balanced. Adding the front bar will cause the most dramatic change in vehicle dynamics on the tri fives. The rear bar will help the car to be more 'neutral' in handling and will also help on acceleration by preventing the right rear tire from squatting into the wheel well.
 
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