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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

So to start with I have a 1956 Chevy 210 4-Door Station Wagon. The wagon has an aftermarket disc brake set up that bolts up to the stock front spindles and the stock rear drums. The brake master cylinder has been upgraded to an aftermarket power break set-up with a proportioning valve on the rear brake line and the vacuum booster tubed up to the intake manifold. In addition, the suspension has had all of the bushings and rubber parts replaced, the front springs replaced with new stock height springs, and new, but cheap, shocks.

With that said, I am having two problems; loose steering at highway speeds and not enough braking power.

When I am doing about 60-65mph on the freeway and I go through a rough or un-even patch of highway the steering gets a little squirrely and the car wants to bounce around and drift into another lane. At low speeds I do not really have any complaints. I know it is by no means a new sports car, but the steering should be a lot more solid than it is.

As far as breaking is concerned, when I step on the brakes the car comes to a stop, but even if I stomp the pedal the brakes do not have enough power to lock up the wheels front or back. I read online that the rear brake lines should have a 10psi check valve since I have a disc/drum set up, and I know that I do not have one. If I add a check valve and bleed the brake system do you think that will help?

Just looking for whatever advice you can give.

Thanks for the help,

Sh0eter1a
 

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Welcome to TriFive.

I cannot answer your brake questions. You may want to start a new topic for each question, you might get a better response.

What do you have for steering? Is it the original manual steering gear, no power steering at all? If you have power steering is it OEM type (linkage-assist), 605 gear, rack and pinion, or a 500 gear?
 

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RIP: 12-31-2011
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Two things. Do you have the combination valve for the brakes. (looks like a big brass block that all the lines go to.) It's used on all GM disc drum brake setups. A residual valve or check valve is not usually needed unless the master cylinder is mounted under the floor where fluid can gravity feed back into the resevoir. But you can install one if you think it's needed.
Your front end sounds like it needs more caster. Has it been to an alignment shop since you had it done?
Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So, the car has had an alignment and the caster was a bit off. The alignment did help, but it's still far from perfect. As far as the steering hardware, everything is stock manual steering, with the original steering gear, column, and 18" bus wheel.

-Sh0eter1a
 

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:)
Couple more questions...........

Have you had the front of the car on jacks or a lift where you can grab each tire and move it back and forth to see if they are loose with lots of play or are they solid/firm and both sides move together?
Does the steering wheel have lots of play from side to side?



Don, aka.....the hamsman
 

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A little more toe in will help the problem but I suspect you have slop in your steering box. there is an adjustment screw on top to take out excessive play. If the steering box has been rebuilt, they may not have made the adjustment. Be careful that you don't make it to tight so it binds up on the ends.
gary
 

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brakes

also check to see if they added the hole and moved the brake acuating rod to the new hole. the new hole should be about 1" in distance below the stock hole.
 

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**** Sh0eter1a and welcome to TriFive. What size is the brake booster? I put a 7" single on the wagon and it did as you said. Last winter I changed it to an 8" dual and what a difference. As far as steering I would ensure the steering link is adjusted correctly and by adding an anti sway bar you will have all around better control and feel. The alignment shop should have checked the wheel bearing set before aligning the car. Good day.
 
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